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Renting Mud Tools from Ames?

6683 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Seattle2k
The last time I did drywall was about ten years ago and I did the drywall joint compound with hand tools and I was not satisfied with my amateurish work. I've watched the videos at www.tapetech.com on the tools one can use to apply drywall and am considering renting the tools from Ames Tools. The guy I spoke to on the phone said as an amateur I should be able to master the tools. This would include: Pump, Automatic taper, Corner roller, Corner finisher, two different sized flat mud boxes, mudrunner corner applicator.

Just wondering if this is something the inexperienced person be successful at and having the result look decent. I've got about 45 sheets of drywall to finish. Basically two box rooms with a few windows.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Not likly to be very cost effective with the long learning curve.
May not be that more expence to just hire it out.
Only time I've seen all that stuff used was on big commercial job.
Not likly to be very cost effective with the long learning curve.
May not be that more expence to just hire it out.
The rental cost is $200 for 7 days or $266 for 16 days and the return shipping cost.

I got one quote of $1380 for the drywall finishing and the primer coat.
you should make a response video to tape tech , offer up advise to the next guy.
You can do it but there is a leaning curve. The first few times I used them I hated them. I don't really know if 7 days is enough time to learn them or not. Have you looked into you hanging the rock and just pay to have it finished.
You can do it but there is a leaning curve. The first few times I used them I hated them. I don't really know if 7 days is enough time to learn them or not. Have you looked into you hanging the rock and just pay to have it finished.
The rock is already hung. Just need finishing.
tips "sincerity"

when it comes to mud, use an all purpose mud...or green lid form HD or Lowes.
The best would be a machine grade mud like proform goldbond (black lid) or at a supply house ...Ruco ap

when mixing take a full pan of mud out of your bucket before mixing. keep adding water until you have a consistency that will PUMP into the gun easily. If you are struggling to pump the mud, the mud is still to thick. empty the gun and re mix.
depending on if you are right handed, when placing the tape on the reel for the gun and the gun is sitting on the gooseneck of the pump. the tape should spin counter clockwise and the tape should make its way to the guide hanging over to the right of the reel. Be sure and use wd40 before you begin. DO Not spray it on the tape reel. but be sure the guide for the tape has a good coat. The tape should slide right through the gun and have a good amount of oil on the very first foot....cut that portion off.....
sense you watched the video you should be up on how to use the gate valve, adjust the advance pin and replace the cutter blade if necessary. also using the creaser to kick and tuck the tape into the converging angles at ceiling height should be a snap.
angle mud should always be looser than the tape you used on the butt-joints and flats. The video probably explained all this already though.
good luck and make the video
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tips "sincerity"

when it comes to mud, use an all purpose mud...or green lid form HD or Lowes.
The best would be a machine grade mud like proform goldbond (black lid) or at a supply house ...Ruco ap

when mixing take a full pan of mud out of your bucket before mixing. keep adding water until you have a consistency that will PUMP into the gun easily. If you are struggling to pump the mud, the mud is still to thick. empty the gun and re mix.
depending on if you are right handed, when placing the tape on the reel for the gun and the gun is sitting on the gooseneck of the pump. the tape should spin counter clockwise and the tape should make its way to the guide hanging over to the right of the reel. Be sure and use wd40 before you begin. DO Not spray it on the tape reel. but be sure the guide for the tape has a good coat. The tape should slide right through the gun and have a good amount of oil on the very first foot....cut that portion off.....
sense you watched the video you should be up on how to use the gate valve, adjust the advance pin and replace the cutter blade if necessary. also using the creaser to kick and tuck the tape into the converging angles at ceiling height should be a snap.
angle mud should always be looser than the tape you used on the butt-joints and flats. The video probably explained all this already though.
good luck and make the video
Thanks for all the great advice. Sounds like you believe an amateur can do an adequate job. The videos contained all the advice you offered except on the WD40 and the Black Lid Mud. It just said the tape machine needed thinner mud than the flat boxes and that one would need to add some water to the taping applicator.

In case someone else is interested in trying out the tools, the videos are located at:

http://www.tapetech.com/learning-center/videos

Rental is through Ames Tools at
http://www.amestools.com/LocationSearch.aspx
Sounds like you believe an amateur can do an adequate job.

I think I missed that part. :wink:

I'm going to follow this. Please do make a video, because I'm assuming this is going to be a lot more trouble than it's worth. I hope you prove me wrong.
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