[ChefAndrew]

Hi all,

Brand new here, came looking for a place to help with ideas on a staircase I’m hoping to renovate.

The original staircase had carpet on it. My plan was to rip it up and then sand/stain the treads to match my flooring and paint or install new white risers. I knew it wasn’t going to be easy going into it, as the treads and risers are all curved.

Unfortunately after removing carpet from one of the sets of stairs, I’ve discovered this may be much harder than I thought (and maybe not even possible without ripping out the entire staircase?).

The stringers are shop-built housed stringer construction. (From what I’ve researched online to learn). And one of the two staircases I don’t have access to the underside, so I don’t think I can cut out the current treads/risers and just replace with new ones as I’d need to get in behind to wedge and fit the new treads/risers?

I’m looking for any ideas/advice on what I can do to refinish or renovate these stairs to make them stained wood and white risers?

I’ve toyed with the idea of sanding them down and painting as close to my wood floor colour as I could? But not really sure it’s going to look the way I want it to.

Pictures attached. I can take more photos or answer any questions you may have. Thanks everyone for taking the time to read my conundrum.

 

[Nealtw]

Is the hardwood upstairs level with the top tread if not, how much?

Are all risers the same height first center and top, if not how much?

 

[ChefAndrew]

Is the hardwood upstairs level with the top tread if not, how much?

Are all risers the same height first center and top, if not how much?

Thanks for your interest.

The flooring at the top is a groove and tongue engineered hardwood and is 7/8" above the top tread.

All risers are the same height with the exception of the first step up which is 1/2" shorter due to the laminate flooring currently on the landing. I will be removing this flooring and doing a new tile as part of this renovation. The actual piece of wood for the riser is the same height, just the extra 1/2" is hidden by the material.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks for your interest.

The flooring at the top is a groove and tongue engineered hardwood and is 7/8" above the top tread.

All risers are the same height with the exception of the first step up which is 1/2" shorter due to the laminate flooring currently on the landing. I will be removing this flooring and doing a new tile as part of this renovation. The actual piece of wood for the riser is the same height, just the extra 1/2" is hidden by the material.

So you have to stay with in 1/4" for all of them so you have the room to recover them. The curve provides a challenge but not impossible.

What would be the height of the lower floor after it is tiled? best guess?

 

[ChefAndrew]

So you have to stay with in 1/4" for all of them so you have the room to recover them. The curve provides a challenge but not impossible.

What would be the height of the lower floor after it is tiled? best guess?

I don't have the tile in-hand right now, but I'm guessing it will come up another 1/4" above where the original laminate flooring is now, so it will hide 3/4" of the bottom riser compared to the 1/2" currently hidden.

 

[Nealtw]

I don't have the tile in-hand right now, but I'm guessing it will come up another 1/4" above where the original laminate flooring is now, so it will hide 3/4" of the bottom riser compared to the 1/2" currently hidden.

So you could extend the upper floor onto that tread and do the rest with 5/8 to 3/4" thick treads.

 

[ChefAndrew]

So you could extend the upper floor onto that tread and do the rest with 5/8 to 3/4" thick treads.

So you're suggesting I pull off all the current Treads / Risers and put in new ones? I've thought of doing that a few times but the problem comes in when I looked at the stringers, they're a housed stringer on both sides, which have been custom cut to fit the current treads. Putting new treads in, even if they were roughly the same size, would require me to have access to the underside of the stairs to re-wedge and glue the supports to close any gaps left between the cut out part of the stringer and the treads/risers.

I've included a couple shots of the one staircase I can access from underneath, (there's 2 stairs cases as this is an entry to a bi-level home) I can't access underneath the other staircase.

I hope that all makes sense? Thanks again for any help you're able to provide.

 

[Nealtw]

So you're suggesting I pull off all the current Treads / Risers and put in new ones? I've thought of doing that a few times but the problem comes in when I looked at the stringers, they're a housed stringer on both sides, which have been custom cut to fit the current treads. Putting new treads in, even if they were roughly the same size, would require me to have access to the underside of the stairs to re-wedge and glue the supports to close any gaps left between the cut out part of the stringer and the treads/risers.

I've included a couple shots of the one staircase I can access from underneath, (there's 2 stairs cases as this is an entry to a bi-level home) I can't access underneath the other staircase.

I hope that all makes sense? Thanks again for any help you're able to provide.

No your stairs are made with the same measurement we use, they are rough framed to be covered with hardwood or carpet. For hardwood you leave off the nose. So you would just cut of the nose add the new risers and new tread. That is what they were built for like that.

 

[ChefAndrew]

No your stairs are made with the same measurement we use, they are rough framed to be covered with hardwood or carpet. For hardwood you leave off the nose. So you would just cut of the nose add the new risers and new tread. That is what they were built for like that.

Ah I see, sorry I misunderstood. If I were to go that round, how would I deal with the curved riser? Do I just put some blocking in the corners to even it out and glue the new riser to the front edge of the curve and blocking to make it straight?

Thanks.

 

[Nealtw]

Ah I see, sorry I misunderstood. If I were to go that round, how would I deal with the curved riser? Do I just put some blocking in the corners to even it out and glue the new riser to the front edge of the curve and blocking to make it straight?

Thanks.

I think it would test the skill of many but I would take a stab at trying to make a tread and save the curve.

 

[Nealtw]

Ah I see, sorry I misunderstood. If I were to go that round, how would I deal with the curved riser? Do I just put some blocking in the corners to even it out and glue the new riser to the front edge of the curve and blocking to make it straight?

Thanks.

I have no sound on my computer, so I have not heard this but thought it would give you something to think about

 

[3onthetree]

I am unclear following the discussion whether you are still trying to sand the treads, or replace them, or cut the curve and put on new treads. But to eliminate the sand tread option, your treads are lower grade pine (and one looks split) so you will not be happy with the look (and color) if you are trying to match your engineered hardwood floor. The risers would need good prep for paint, if you went with a cover that may affect your nose overhang.

 

[Nealtw]

I am unclear following the discussion whether you are still trying to sand the treads, or replace them, or cut the curve and put on new treads. But to eliminate the sand tread option, your treads are lower grade pine (and one looks split) so you will not be happy with the look (and color) if you are trying to match your engineered hardwood floor. The risers would need good prep for paint, if you went with a cover that may affect your nose overhang.

Actually the treads need to be raised about 3/4" to stay in code.

 

[ron45]

The treads and risers appear to be plywood.

These stairs was never meant to be high end.

I would sand, wood putty, and paint, or install a new carpet.

 

[ChefAndrew]

The treads and risers appear to be plywood.

These stairs was never meant to be high end.

I would sand, wood putty, and paint, or install a new carpet.

Thanks everyone for chiming in with ideas and help. I've come to a similar conclusion as Ron here. They were definitely designed with the intent of being carpeted. With some of the imperfections in the treads, even sanding is going to create a ton of work.

I was really looking forward to having a set of hardwood stairs when this was all done, but didn't know what I was getting into from the beginning. Currently my working plan, unless there's some other good suggestions, is to redo carpeting over just the stair treads in something more fitting to my decor, and then either a white thick veneer or wood thick veneer stained to match my upstairs flooring on the risers, and sand/paint the stringers white.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks everyone for chiming in with ideas and help. I've come to a similar conclusion as Ron here. They were definitely designed with the intent of being carpeted. With some of the imperfections in the treads, even sanding is going to create a ton of work.

I was really looking forward to having a set of hardwood stairs when this was all done, but didn't know what I was getting into from the beginning. Currently my working plan, unless there's some other good suggestions, is to redo carpeting over just the stair treads in something more fitting to my decor, and then either a white thick veneer or wood thick veneer stained to match my upstairs flooring on the risers, and sand/paint the stringers white.

That would work. :wink2:

 

[ChefAndrew]

That would work. :wink2:

Again, many thanks to you Neal for all your time spent sharing ideas and information. It's my first time joining DIY Chatroom here, but I am confident I'll be back with more questions, and hopefully can pass on some of my own limited knowledge as I've tackled quite a bit of DIY work around my house already.

:thumbup:

 

[BigJim]

Just a thought, in all the years of building stair I have never had this situation. I suggested false tread end caps on our sister forum, with carpet in the center.

This may not work and it may not be a good way to do this, and it may not be legal but, just for the sake of trying, picture this:
Take a rectangle tread that is the right length to go from one stringer to the other. Let the straight tread touch the riser in the center of the riser. How much is not touching on each end? In other words, how much of a curve do you have in the riser? Use a straight edge that will touch the center of the riser, then measure how far the straight edge is from the riser at each end.

If you were to install straight treads all the way up, maybe support the ends of the tread that don't sit on the curved tread. I see you need to add 3/4 inch to be in code so maybe this would be a way to have straight treads.

There wouldn't be any pressure on the outer ends of the tread anyway as the line of assent is no where close to the right or left of the tread ends. The first tread at the bottom, would need to be curved as it would protrude beyond where the end of the stairs starts. I haven't given the top step any thought yet, I just came up with this hair brain idea. I hate jury rigging anything and this may be just that but it is something to think about I guess.