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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

So I am needing to remove one fan completely and patch the hole. There are two fans in the living area on one switch. If I just disconnect and pull the fan, and patch the hole, is this against code? Will it prevent the other fan from working correctly? How would I go about finding out what I need to know if there are various ways it could have been wired...? Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

-Huggins90
 

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Before you can abandon the cables you will need to make sure they are dead and removed from the boxes. You will also need to check that the fan you want to remove does not feed the other fan. If it does you will need to leave the box and install a blank cover. You will not be able to bury that box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ha thanks for the edit tarheeltwerp...er uh...terp. So if the fan feeds the other fan, and I safe the wires and install the blank cover, the cover would still be visible? It mounts externally? Could I pull the box, then connect the wires back together in the attic in a junction box?
 

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As long as the box remains accessible, whether fro the room or the attic you are fine. You cannot bury live wires.
 

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Do you know whether power for these 2 fans comes into either:

-the fan you want to remove locaton( like 5th diagram below)
-the fan you want to keep location(also could be like 5th diagram below)
-the switch location( like 2nd and 4th diagrams below)
-a separate junction box which then feed the switch then back to j-box then out to fans(like the 1st and 3rd diagrams below)
 

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here are some various setups of how your wiring could be...diagrams I had saved so I didnt change the devices. Im sure you could picture a ceiling fan instead of lites or attic fans.

ground wires not show for ease of drawing
 

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Hammerline: I like the "Capped neutral for code police" on the last diagram.:laughing:

However, couldn't you just run 2-wire cable and recode the white as hot? Or is there a problem with not having a neutral in the box?
 

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Hammerline: I like the "Capped neutral for code police" on the last diagram.:laughing:

However, couldn't you just run 2-wire cable and recode the white as hot? Or is there a problem with not having a neutral in the box?
You could use XX-2 cable which would basically be a switch loop but new codes require a neutral at switch locations in case later you automate or use a switch which requires a neutral like some timer switches or motion switches.

if it was me and I knew I'd never have nothing there but a single pole switch---screw it Im running XX-2 cable
 
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