DIYer here, not an expert. This sounds like a job for self leveler—except that stuff sucks.
-----------------------
The idea is that you poor it out and it will seek it's own level like water to raise the floor to the level of the hump, rather than trying to ground down the hump.
1. It doesn't level as glass smooth as the marketing suggests, at least not for larger areas. If it is a small bathroom or similar, it may work well for you, but I would use it as a last resort.
2. One bag will yield one large bucket full and cover around 50 sf. depending on how high the hump is. If you have to mix more than one bucket, you have to mix the second bucket long enough to mix properly. That amount of time makes it difficult to poor the second batch quick enough. The first poor may begin to thicken fast enough that the second (or more) poor may not blend smoothly and you may get a ridge where the two separate bucket fulls meet.
3. It is very hard to get a perfectly smooth level finish for larger areas.
4. If the floor is "L" shaped, or any shape other than rectangular, an even poor becomes harder to achieve.
5. If the height difference of the bump is a lot, you may exceed the acceptable amount of thickness for the self leveler, it will have to cover the "island" of concrete as well as the "sea" of concrete to be level.
In short, the self leveler may be the answer to your problem, but it requires more finesse and luck than the product marketing admits to, and may cause you more problems than it solves.
-----------------------
Possible solution:
Take your level, put one end on the hump, the other on the lower part of the floor. Use a ruler and measure the hight of the gap between the floor and the level created by bridging the two different heights in your floor with the level. Read the installation instructions with your particular flooring to see what the grade should be. It should tell you some information about the acceptable hight difference over a particular length from the high spot to the low spot (grade is akin to the angle of a line in a line graph).
Use the level or other straight edge that is long enough to create the proper grade according to the instructions, use a pencil or something to start making marks where the level touches the edge of the high spot and at the other end of where it touches the low spot. Do this radiating around the high spot until you've mapped out the radius of where the low spot has to be filled in to meet the high spot with the appropriate grade according to the installation instructions.
Identify the appropriate concrete patch or other material you can use to connect the high spot to the low spot to fill in the gap. (someone here can tell you or maybe you'll get lucky and find a big box employee who actually knows what they're talking about to recommend the right product). You will apply this with a large trowel to bridge the gap between the "island" and the "sea" in your concrete to the places you've measured.
Use the level or strait edge as a screed, placing one end on the high spot and one end on the low spot and scrape across the filler/patch compound so that you get a straight line across the filled in gap in a radius around the high spot to the low spot with no gap under the straight edge. You may have to feather and smooth again with a trowel by hand. You may have to repeat this process for other isolated high/low spots elsewhere on the floor.
-----------------------
Objective:
The goal here is not to have your entire floor resemble a frozen sea where it is perfectly flat and level across the entire floor. Instead, you're shooting for having the high and low spots "bridged" to the amount that the "waves" in your "sea" of concrete are shallow enough that they do not exceed your particular floorings accepted tolerance. It will not be perfect, but the rise and fall of the floor will be shallow enough that the flooring can follow it along the surface without having gaps between the flooring and the concrete, flex enough to break, crack, snap the tongues in the tongue and groove that joins them, or be compromised too much in general.
This may take longer than pouring self leveler, but you have much more control. It's far easier to gradually add just enough material to accomplish a "level enough" floor than it is to end up with too much material and/or simply adding another layer of uneven, rippled self leveler. If you find you can't get it level enough this way. You can always still use the self leveler (if the patch material and leveler are compatible and can bond). In theory, the self leveler should work a little better at this point because it will have less of an extreme height difference to flow over if you hadn't done the "spot" leveling previously.
-----------------------
Caveat:
Again, I'm a DIYer myself, not an expert, so you might want to wait till you hear from an expert. I do have experience trying to solve your particular situation myself, and I know the self leveler is not as easy to use as one might think. I also know you will not be able (or want) to remove material from your existing floor, rather you want to add just enough to the low spot to bridge the gap far enough away to create the appropriate grade.
