DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I inherited my father's old Craftsman circular saw (model 315.109010, circa 1980ish) which no longer has the manual. I've searched the net and haven't found a manual there either.

So I'm having trouble removing the blade. First off, on this model does it follow the lefty loosey, or the opposite way. I've tried both to no avail. Also, I can find no spindle lock, so I'm having to stop the blade with a screw driver. The problem is that the nut is turning and I think the spindle is turning with it, even though the blade is not. There's a black disc underneath the nut that is also turning (see pic.) I tried some WD-40 but that hasn't freed things up.

So does anyone know...

1)If there's a spindle lock on this model
2)Does it follow lefty loosey, or the opposite
3)Any ideas on how to free this nut? (Not me, the one on the saw.)

Steve S.
 

Attachments

·
Old School
Joined
·
3,634 Posts
Just to help out anyone else doing this in the future...

The retaining bolt HAS to tighten against the rotation, otherwise it would quickly spin the blade right off as the motor started.And therefore, it has to loosen WITH the rotation.

Almost all blade bolts turn as you try to loosen them. It's kind of a poor man's clutch action. The trick is to put a box end wrench on the bolt, and give it a strong, sharp, quick blow in the direction of the arrow on the blade. (I use a 1' piece of 2 x 2) It will almost always come right off on the first attempt.

The best way to hold the blade is to prepare a piece of 2 x 6 beforehand, and keep it around just for the purpose of removing blades. You set your saw at about 1/4", and drop it into the 2 x 6, (Running) cutting a small groove about 2" long.

Now, when you want to change a blade, you simply lower the blade another 1/8 to 3/16 inch deeper, and set it down in that groove (not running). A little pressure downward on the saw will keep the blade from turning, and will keep the saw fairly stable while you whack the wrench. It also has the added advantage of keeping the teeth shielded...... they won't be apt to nick your fingers, and you won't chip the little carbide tips with anything metal used to stop rotation.
 

·
Tool Geek
Joined
·
2,590 Posts
.................................The best way to hold the blade is to prepare a piece of 2 x 6 beforehand, .......... You set your saw at about 1/4", and drop it into the 2 x 6, (Running) cutting a small groove about 2" long...........
Willie, that's great advice.
When I read Steve's problem, I went out to the garage to see if I could find my 1960's all metal Craftsman circular saw. I must have thrown it out years ago. The thing weighed a ton. Now I wish I would have saved it.
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
3,634 Posts
Willie, that's great advice.
When I read Steve's problem, I went out to the garage to see if I could find my 1960's all metal Craftsman circular saw. I must have thrown it out years ago. The thing weighed a ton. Now I wish I would have saved it.
Bob,
Just about everything Sears made back in the 60's was top shelf. I had an old metal 3/8" drill for decades. Let a couple of dumb kids use it for drilling top plate (2 x 8). They ruined it in less than an hour.
 

·
Household Handyman
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
Just to share, and maybe give you a chuckle: Back in the late '60's and early '70's I worked for a framing contractor during the summers of high school. He bought those great older Craftsman circular saws and always seemed to have more than one on the job, but--He would be the one to cut the roof sheathing when we had decked out the roof and for some reason he had this bad habit of not watching where the electrical cord was. You guessed it, he would cut the cord of the saw while it was in use. He would get so mad at what he had done he would just draw back and throw the saw as far as he could, tell someone to go get him another @#$&*^ saw out of the truck and keep going as if nothing happened. Who wound up with the saws he threw away, me of course. The first time I saw him do that, I just picked up the saw at the end of the day, took it home and repaired the cord, and took it back to him. He would not have that any saw that would cut it's own cord! So, he told me I could have them. At one point, I'm not joking, I had nine (9) saws he had thrown off of the roofs. These were to older, seems like 20# saws, back then. I sold them through word-of-mouth years ago. I do wish I had one or two of them now.
 

·
Crazy, but lovable
Joined
·
53 Posts
Just to share, and maybe give you a chuckle: Back in the late '60's and early '70's I worked for a framing contractor during the summers of high school. He bought those great older Craftsman circular saws and always seemed to have more than one on the job, but--He would be the one to cut the roof sheathing when we had decked out the roof and for some reason he had this bad habit of not watching where the electrical cord was. You guessed it, he would cut the cord of the saw while it was in use. He would get so mad at what he had done he would just draw back and throw the saw as far as he could, tell someone to go get him another @#$&*^ saw out of the truck and keep going as if nothing happened. Who wound up with the saws he threw away, me of course. The first time I saw him do that, I just picked up the saw at the end of the day, took it home and repaired the cord, and took it back to him. He would not have that any saw that would cut it's own cord! So, he told me I could have them. At one point, I'm not joking, I had nine (9) saws he had thrown off of the roofs. These were to older, seems like 20# saws, back then. I sold them through word-of-mouth years ago. I do wish I had one or two of them now.
:laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Removing blade from old Craftsman circular saw

I have an early 70's vintage 7" circular saw and it does have an arbor lock. There is a small metal button between the saw/motor housing and the blade guard. You have to rotate the blade by hand while pressing the button and it will finally drop into a detent. this allows you to loosen the blade with a wrench.
 

·
Registered User
Joined
·
11,730 Posts
Because that's a side-winder. Left hand saw, not blade right as in the o.p. I have a Skilsaw 7-1/4" metal handle gear drive I bought in '73, and B&D 7-1/4". Still have those and two 6-1/2" Skil's L.H., I bought in the '80's because they were four pounds lighter than the 7's. Before the mag's came out, employees would pick (jerk) them up and almost throw them over their shoulder because they look just like the 7's. I never got tired of that! lol. That was a good one, Thurman!
Be safe, Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
older Craftsman circular saw blade removal

I have a mid-to-late 1970's model 7 1/4" Craftsman circular saw and was having trouble changing blades to do some plywood sawing. Lo and behold...others had had this same problem. Bless the internet!!

Anyway tried one of the suggestions and it worked...got the nut off w/o much of a problem. Changed blades and realized that all of the blades that I have have either holes or lengthened notches in them in just a few places and if you place a screwdriver in the notches and brace it against the housing the nut comes off easily and also goes back on and tightens down the same way.

Blades are from the same decade as the saw... All are in great shape...glad to hear I have one of the better made, though heavy, circ.
saws. Going to use it tomorrow...
cheers,

tashidad :thumbsup: :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Saw blade

Never ceases to amaze when I can find an answer to the most obscure question. Thank you for having the foresight to consider this could be a problem for some and then posting a comprehensive question and reply. I can't wait to see the look on husbands face when he wakes up to find I have removed blade for him. I bought the saw for myself in the early 80's long before we met.:bangin: Hahaha. Healthy competition going, it's all good. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I did what pretty much what Willie T said to do (copied from his post, below). Worked like a charm. "the direction of the arrow on the blade" is simply 'lefty loosey'. I used a rachet wrench and a hammer to tap the handle of the wrench.

The trick is to put a box end wrench on the bolt, and give it a strong, sharp, quick blow in the direction of the arrow on the blade. (I use a 1' piece of 2 x 2) It will almost always come right off on the first attempt.
 

·
Property Mgt/Maint
Joined
·
6,667 Posts
Here is my goto rougher. Still runs great. Guessing my father bought this in the late 60's or early 70's.






notice the short cord and new plug :wink2:
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top