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I remeasured from the line I drew, kid forgot to write down a 0. (He's two semesters away from being an accountant too, sigh :vs_laugh:)


8 foot 10 inches. That's from the second story sub-floor down to the wood covered first floor.
A very rough calculation with a 3 foot landing at the bottom about 23 inches high and a 3 foot landing at the top at the height of the new top step
The stairs would be about 7 1/8 rise and 10" treads
For carpet you would put 11 inch treads on the that.
That puts 2 steps at the bottom up to the landing so they would stick out in the room 21" about.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Uh oh... two steps at the bottom is problematic. I have around 40 inches for the bottom landing before I start running into the sidelights on my front door:

20190108_040940.jpg

(Tape measure is set at 5 foot from the wall. Trim on the wall is 1/2 inch)


Pardon the pictures, stupid earthquake...
 
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retired framer
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Uh oh... two steps at the bottom is problematic. I have around 40 inches for the bottom landing before I start running into the sidelights on my front door:

View attachment 545771

(Tape measure is set at 5 foot from the wall. Trim on the wall is 1/2 inch)


Pardon the pictures, stupid earthquake...
I will play with the math again.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I will play with the math again.

Think I can I do just the landing with no additional steps? I could make it arch out a bit into the entry way so it'd look really nice.


Oh and I forgot to mention we're going to do the stairs in wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Like this!





Except this kinda shape:


 
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retired framer
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Think I can I do just the landing with no additional steps? I could make it arch out a bit into the entry way so it'd look really nice.


Oh and I forgot to mention we're going to do the stairs in wood.
We build stairs from sub floor to sub subfloor and can assume all the different floors will be with in 1/4" of each other and they are in code.
For carpet we leave a nose and for hardwood no nose.
For hard wood the nose is a pain if you put a curve on the front.


So this is what I have now.
Top landing surface of plywood 7 5/8 lower than the subfloor upstairs.
3 feet long, front face of frame is 2x12


Bottom landing , width of stairs and 48" long 7 5/8" minus the thickness of the hard wood on the floor. so this frame would be build out of 2x8s ripped down to 6 1/8" with 3/4 plywood on top.


The stringers will be cut to 7 5/8 x 10 3/8 cut from 14 ft 2x10s
they will sit on the landing at the bottom making the landing about 44" usable. When the stringers are cut the very bottom is cut the thickness of the plywood that will be on top. (treads)
 

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Discussion Starter #29
@Nealtw

7 5/8 risers sound sooooo nice... ~warm fuzzies~


48" long from that wall behind the apothecary dresser right? I'll pull the short angled wall at the bottom of the stairs with the stringers for adjustment.

Can't I just over hang the riser and router a round over nose on the treads? I can't say I've ever seen a stair with out a bullnose... Although, it's looking... industrial in my head. Which kind of plays well with what I was thinking to do - something like this, except with gray/ash stained wood treads:
 

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Discussion Starter #30

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@Nealtw

7 5/8 risers sound sooooo nice... ~warm fuzzies~


48" long from that wall behind the apothecary dresser right? I'll pull the short angled wall at the bottom of the stairs with the stringers for adjustment.

Can't I just over hang the riser and router a round over nose on the treads? I can't say I've ever seen a stair with out a bullnose... Although, it's looking... industrial in my head. Which kind of plays well with what I was thinking to do - something like this, except with gray/ash stained wood treads:
The nose has a little overhang at the bottom to hide the join of the riser.
So with that 20K$ stair case they did a lot of detail and everything was perfect. They likely routered a slot in the bottom of the tread to fit the riser into. And notice it is thick wood, as thick as the nose of a regular hard wood.


And yes you would take the top off the little wall and slip in taller studs for the new angle.


Now you could put a window over the garage side and be really close to leaving the closet alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Now you could put a window over the garage side and be really close to leaving the closet alone.

Don't I have to have an 8' ceiling over the landing?
 

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Don't I have to have an 8' ceiling over the landing?
80" measured down from the corner of the ceiling to the angle of the stairs is min.
So measure down 80 and measure the length of the ceiling back to the wall behind the dresser. At worst it would be a small angle just at the corner to match the angle of the new stairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
@Nealtw Thank you for all the stairs infos. I was talking my husband about your idea (that leaves the upstairs closet) and he threw me a curve ball...

Attempting to long story short: we have to pull out that covered deck on the front and redo the grading under it - the water from break up or heavy rains flow down the main road, right down our driveway, and pools up there, turns into a lake all the time. We're going to put in a french drain to deal with that.

He says we've gotta go so deep for the drain, we might as well put in a foundation and do my "original" idea of expanding out the entry (into the covered porch area,) and doing my curved stairs + balcony library that's open to the entry way below.

I'm going to have to go back to the drawing board now lol
 
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