[Dad the Fixer]

Newbie to online! Reusing quarter round after it was removed and new vinyl was laid over old vinyl. Looking for tips before I start the project. Thanks.

 

[PaliBob]

You can't use the original brads. They were probably 'gun brads' i.e. brads that were shot in with a pneumatic brad nail gun.

Break of all the original brads by holding the brad close to the quarter round with long nose pliers and twist back and forth with a rocking motion, until the brad breaks.

You can buy a box of short 1" brads at the Hdw store. Use the long nose pliers to start the brads with a hammer.

 

[Paragon]

I would opt to remove the brads. PULL THEM THROUGH THE BACK AND DO NOT TAP THEM BACK THROUGH THE FRONT! If they happen to break off then ohh well at that point and time I would opt to snip them as close as possible. The reason I would opt to pull them through rather than break all of them off is that I think you will spend less time pulling them instead of breaking them off.

Then you can reinstall with a brad that penetrates the molding enough to hold the 1/4 round in place. I am not sure if 1" will be long enough as I am not sure what thickness your 1/4 is. You can reinstall through the existing holes but I would bet that the old placings will not support a good grab. I shoot my nails with a finish nailer so I do very little hand nailing so I would say if you have a friend that has a finish nailer beg borrow or steal it it will be well worth your time.

Good luck and be safe.

 

[Thurman]

Sorry Bob, I'm with James on this one. Maybe it's the way I was taught years ago, I'm old school. I always pull brads out with either needle nose or lineman's pliers, from the point side. I never use the same holes again, I don't believe they are good wood for a new nail, relocate and use colored putty. Hopefully the homeowner numbered the pieces as they were taken up, sure makes it easier for me. Using the needle nose pliers to help hold the brad is a must for me, if I have to hammer, guns for me. Patience is one key to this job if using a hammer. It's so easy to bend a brad. Thanks, David

 

[PaliBob]

I don't think I explained myself very well. my suggestion was both for the case where the original brads were hand drives or from gun brads. I do NOT try any removal techniques because in the case of hand drives it is better NOT to mess with the point where the brad enters the trim. That junction may be visible but pulling it out will draw more attention.

If the original brads were from a nail gun then pulling the nail through the trim will most often leave a small scar on the visible surface, especially on painted trim.

My goal is to leave no evidence on the visible side of the trim that anything has happened except of course I still have to hide the new nails.

 

[Paragon]

PaliBob,

In the future fear not whether they are from a gun or hand driven. If you pull them from the backside and the hole is filled you will never know there isn't a nail under there even if it had long since been pulled.

You will do more damage and it will be more noticeable if one of those hand driven brads does not get pulled through the back side and during re installation gets popped back through the face of the trim and happens to splinter the trim on the way back through the front. Take those nails out and actually the hand driven brads are easier to pull out because they are not thin like the wire nail. The best thing to pull nails with is a lineman's pliers or a nippers as explained in this article http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1222479,00.html and the nippers look like the tool on the right the one on the left in this pic are side cutters. http://chicktool.com/tools/nippers/nippers.gif

Good luck and this is my input and other techniques work better for them as these work better for me and is what I recommend.

 

[Gary in WA]

Clean the paint build-up on the base if it will interfere with the install, now that the shoe will be slightly higher.

Clean any paint stuck to the shoe's top edge, for a cleaner look.

Nail only into the baseboard, not the floor (for expansion).

Caulk any gaps if painted.

Glue the outside corners, maybe use a small brad if needed.

If you need to replace any, the wider side goes against the wall. (Match what is there)

Be safe, G

 

[PaliBob]

..... If you pull them from the backside and the hole is filled you will never know there isn't a nail under there even if it had long since been pulled....

Why do you have to fill the holes when don't have to disturb the finish. Paint may be easy to fill but what about a row of holes in nice hardwood trim.

Thanks for the tool tip but I know all about pincers. The reason I suggested long nose pliers and breaking the nail was that not many folks have pincers. The TOH link on how to remove trim was superfluous.

I prefer my Knipex Pincers, they have one side of the head flattened so it can be used as a hammer.

 

[PaliBob]

All good suggestions from GBAR.

A fast drying glue for this type work is Molding & trim Wood glue from Titebond.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/TRIM-GLUE/Titebond-Molding-Glue

It dries very fast and gets tacky so fast that for small pieces you can just push them in place and they will stay there

Though for returns on new moldings 2P-10 is King
http://www.fastcap.com/2p10-10oz.aspx
.

 

[Paragon]

Why do you have to fill the holes when don't have to disturb the finish. Paint may be easy to fill but what about a row of holes in nice hardwood trim.

Thanks for the tool tip but I know all about pincers. The reason I suggested long nose pliers and breaking the nail was that not many folks have pincers. The TOH link on how to remove trim was superfluous.

I prefer my Knipex Pincers, they have one side of the head flattened so it can be used as a hammer.

You don't have to fill the holes they are already filled and that is why you pull the nails from the back to KEEP them filled. If you have a row of holes in hardwood you fill them with a color matched putty and I like to go with a shade darker than the color of the wood stain if I can't get an exact match rather than going lighter it tends to look better to me.

I did not mean to give YOU the tool tip BOB I meant it for someone else who does not know how to perform this procedure so I apologize if you took offense however if you know how to perform this procedure than don't listen to that which you already know because this is a DIY site and that is who comes here and a homeowner may benefit from this advice greatly and they may not know what a nippers, lineman's plier or a needle nose is so I thought I would give THEM the illustration of what a nippers looks like.

Once again the link to the TOH article is great if you don't have the knowledge on how to remove trim so again if you know how to perform these steps please kindly disregard the link.

As far as gluing returns a simple Titebond or Elmer's or Gorilla interior wood glue (about $3.00 and purchased at any hardware store)or gorrila interior wood glue is just as good if not better than a $30 adhesive that you order over the internet. Most homeowners would not have a clue on how to cut a return and I don't think that the poster was looking for information on how to adhere returns so again not sure why this advice came into the discussion almost like out of left field to make a poster sound more official and authoritative because what GBAR was referring to was the outside miters and not the returns.

Good luck to the OP and I think that PaliBob is disputing my information and turning this into a squabbling match. Again like I said these are my suggestions and my methods of doing things and if any person who reads this information finds merits in any of it I invite them to utilize it and benefit from it. You can look at my websites and see that I apply these methods and they work for me and if they don't work for any one else or agree with their theory then please by no means do not use them.

Good luck and be safe!

 

[PaliBob]

I did not mean to give YOU the tool tip BOB I meant it for someone else who does not know how to perform this procedure........

Don't try to get out of it....My name was the first word in the post

...and I think that PaliBob is disputing my information .........

Wrong I did not dispute your information. I said my goal was not to mar the visible surface. I think this is preferable to:

If you have a row of holes in hardwood you fill them with a color matched putty and I like to go with a shade darker ....

My whole point was that if you remove the nails then there is a void that needs to be filled. If the nail stays in the trim then there is no void.
.

 

[Paragon]

:wallbash::help:UGGG why do I continue to respond to you PaliBob?:help::wallbash: