[jcurt99]

I have a Frigidaire that will not cool...
I first checked the compressor with a meter, I checked for continuity by touching 2 pins at a time - according to this test, the compressor is OK
I have replaced the relay and the capacitor and it still won't work. The fans work, and I can hear clicking..

Any ideas??

 

[Missouri Bound]

How old is the refrigerator?
Did it just stop working or was it a gradual thing?
Have you relocated it recently?
Was it ever in any position other than standing up?
Assuming the commpressor is good...does it run?
It may be as simple as being low on refrigerant or a pressure switch not working.

 

[jcurt99]

It was mfg in 2008
I just bought it at a garage sale...so I don't know for certain if it stopped cooling suddenly or if it was gradual. I moved it, used a pickup so it was on it's side for about 30 minutes. Stood upright for several hours before I plugged it in.

Is there anything else I can do to diagnose? I appreciate your help.

 

[Missouri Bound]

And was it working when you bought it?

 

[jcurt99]

It was not plugged in at the time...they said it worked and I believed them. I'm in Missouri too -- I should have made them 'show me'

 

[Missouri Bound]

It was not plugged in at the time...they said it worked and I believed them. I'm in Missouri too -- I should have made them 'show me'

I guess you could take it back and dump it in their lawn.
But whatever you paid chalk it up to experience.

 

[jcurt99]

I don't give up that easy...
It's going to work

 

[Missouri Bound]

That's a great attitude.
:thumbup1:
You say you hear clicks. Is the compressor in a spot where you can see it or is it buried inside the refrigerator? If you can get to it it's pretty easy to check if it is running by carefully putting a hand on it. It will vibrate at least a little. The larger pipe coming from it should be cold while the smaller one hot.
Touch them gingerly, especially the smaller one.
Fiddle with the thermostat. They also can go bad or just be way out of calibration. It is even possible you shook a connection loose when moving it.
How long have you had it plugged in? Many refrigerators take 24 hours to cool.
Got a model number?

 

[jcurt99]

I've got access to the compressor...when I plug the fridge in the fan starts and then after about 30-60 seconds there is a click. Then another click about 20-30 seconds later. It continues to click twice every couple minutes.
My understanding, and this is only from watching YouTube, is that the first click is the relay trying to start the compressor, the second click is the overload stopping it. the compressor does get warm, but i don't feel any obvious vibration. so youtube videos suggested testing the compressor by checking continuity with a meter, touching each combination of two pins - I did that and they all beeped when touched with the meter. So i replaced the relay and capacitor...stilll the same clicking.

Please keep in mind I'm a rookie, forgive me if I am sounding like an idiot.

 

[jcurt99]

Model # - LFTR1814LBJ - Frigidaire
And I was mistaken - it was mfg in July of 2014

 

[spitz1234]

You will need to check amp draw on the compressor.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[bfrabel]

If you correctly replaced the current relay and start capacitor and it still doesn't work,I would take Missouri's advice and "bring it back" to where you got it.

The compressor is likely seized up. Your only hope at that point is to try smacking it with a hammer while it's trying to start. That has about a 5% chance of working, and if it does get going it's likely to lock up again shortly after.

As a last ditch effort you could try getting yourself a "3 in 1" to see if that does it, but if you already tried installing an OEM current relay and capacitor then it's doubtful the 3 in 1 would do much more.

 

[BayouRunner]

Run capacitor to compressor could be bad. Preventing compressor startup

 

[jcurt99]

Not sure if this will be helpful - but I took a video. Nothing to see but you can hear...

After the first click, the fan seems to slow just slightly, then picks back up after the 2nd click - I have know idea if that means anything.

 

[BayouRunner]

If the run capacitor isn’t bad then you could try a 3 in1 like mentioned above. If either of these don’t work. Toss it

 

[spitz1234]

You need a meter. That will tell you everything you need to know.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[bfrabel]

You need a meter. That will tell you everything you need to know.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Just having a meter isn't enough. It has to be the right kind of meter, and you would need the knowledge to know how to use the meter. You would need to be able to check voltage, amp draw, resistance, and capacitance. Do you have a meter that can check all of that?

The symptoms that were described, as well as the fact that the capacitor was already replaced point to a locked up compressor.

Would your meter be able to tell you that? Well yeah, If your meter has an amp clamp you could tell that it's pulling locked rotor amps for a brief moment before the overload opens up, but I could tell you the same thing from way over here without a meter and without even being able to physically see the dumb thing.

Whatever.

I'm telling you, bang on the compressor with a big hammer. If that don't work then try putting up a craigslist add advertising a free fridge.

 

[beenthere]

Use a plastic or rubber mallet to bang on the compressor. A metal hammer can dent the housing.

 

[bfrabel]

Use a plastic or rubber mallet to bang on the compressor. A metal hammer can dent the housing.

Yes, you are right. The guy he got it from won't want it back if it has a big dent in the compressor. :whistling2:

 

[surferdude2]

There is an outside chance yet, but it's a pretty slim one. I don't mean to get your hopes up but just want to be sure all bases are covered.

You can check your luck to see if you have this slim chance by leaving the power unplugged over night or for at least 8 hours.

Then plug it back in and listen closely to the compressor. If it still only hums and then you hear that "click" sound within the first minute, you likely have a locked rotor in the compressor. Not worth fixing at the consumer level.

If instead, the compressor actually runs for a short period of time (more than 2 minutes) and then shuts down, there is a good chance that it can be fixed. It would require pulling the refrigerant charge out and replacing the filter/drier and recharging the system. If the cabinet is in good shape and a popular size, you might consider fixing it.

A capillary tube system with moisture in it can plug up and give all the symptoms of a locked rotor. I've seen that happen to units that have never been opened since they left the factory so obviously they had moisture from the start. It usually get absorbed into the filter/drier but with age and high condensing temperatures due to dirty condenser coils, an old drier will release the moisture and it freezes the filter/drier and cap tube pretty quickly as it comes back around. Letting it set unplugged will thaw that out and allow it to run for another short time before freezing up again. This is a rare occurrence but worth testing since it costs nothing.