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The larger filter unit installed in basement was called a whole house filter. It is easiest to install but wasteful or at least inefficient in that if it were installed early in the line, it would filter cold water for whole house including toilets, showers etc etc.

If one has a dedicated line in the basement just to the refrigerator, this is best solution. Filter will last much longer, filtering much less water. The basement type can be expanded to include multiple housing units (doubles and triples are common) in series to have different filters doing different removal. Each filter type has to be replaced on different schedules but basement access makes it easier to do. Fluoride removal needs replacement most frequently.

We are lucky in that we have a taste sensitive person in the family that tells us when water taste is 'off'. Actual replacement schedule will vary based upon your location (how much bad stuff in your water supply), gallons filtered and, possibly by time especially if water is not used for long periods of time. Kind of like an oil change. Sediment 'pre filter' should be first in line if multiple filters installed. Especially good for multiple family units where delivery pipes are old and rusty.

Suspect a bypass filter is mostly empty inside but that water flows through it. Refrigerator is not smart enough to know what type of filter it is so alarm for replacement will sound based upon (I believe) the passage of time, not gallons. Cleaning it from time to time wouldn't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It seems I cannot find the WHCF-DWH model number (Whirlpool?)
For what I want to do, which filter would you recommend (Home Depot, Lowes or even Amazon) with easy to find cartridge as well?
Thanks
 

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It seems I cannot find the WHCF-DWH model number (Whirlpool?)
For what I want to do, which filter would you recommend (Home Depot, Lowes or even Amazon) with easy to find cartridge as well?
Thanks



Use the model number of your Fridge or whole house filter unit and not the part number.



Many of the Fridge units are exactly the same, sometimes with only a variance in the size of the O-ring and a different label.
 

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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/761478/Whirlpool-Whcf-Dwh.html

This is good, but I like a clear type where you can see when the cartridge gets dirty. They are all pretty similar.

Maybe just review the 3 explanations at the cuzn site:

https://cuzn.com/whole-house-water-filters/

A 10 inch 'generic' will do and let you find replacement elements easily. Learn about micron capture size to pick your best fit for your water.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clear-10-F...a=1&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

Pay attention to pipe type and threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Use the model number of your Fridge or whole house filter unit and not the part number.



Many of the Fridge units are exactly the same, sometimes with only a variance in the size of the O-ring and a different label.
not asking for the filter that goes into the fridge, but for an outside filter that would install on the line that feed the fridge....
 

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Evidently the model number has changed on the Whirlpool whole house filter. The link below will get it for you now at Lowes. It uses the standard 10" filter that's available at all big box stores.

Whirlpool Whole House Filter

Any comparable model shown will also do the job... I see the Whirlpool unit is not available at my local Lowes but A.O. Smith model AO-WH-PRE seems to be the unit that has been selected to replace it... looks the same in all respects.

A.O. Smith Water Filter
 
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Adding info late in the thread but...

An NSF logo doesn’t necessarily mean that the water filter can filter out certain contaminants.

If the logo says “NSF components”, it means that the materials used to make the filter are safe blah blah blah.

There has to be an accompanying statement or a performance data sheet (much better) saying that the filter was tested and certified against NSF/ANSI 42, 53, etc. standards, depending on what contaminants you’re looking to remove.

On the min, I look for certification against particulates, chlorine, odor (NSF 42) and lead (NSF 53).

The testing and certification also doesn’t have to be done by NSF. There are several other ANSI-accredited testing and certification bodies - e.g., WQA, IAPMO R&T.

It seems to me that a lot of sellers selling filters from overseas include the NSF Components logo with the intention of deceiving the many many consumers who know next to nothing about water filtration and water safety. I wish the FDA and EPA would make it a requirement for all water filters to be tested and certified before they can be sold.
 

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A refrigerator water filter is one of the most cost-effective solutions that operates successfully and efficiently out of all the many types of water filters available on the market. You may have thought of purchasing a refrigerator water filter given its many benefits. However, you might have also been curious as to what refrigerator water filters actually remove.
Typically, refrigerator filters eliminate odors and tastes as well as dangerous contaminants like sediments, lead, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), chlorine, and many more.
 

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The thing is you really don't need to change these when the little red light comes on. That is an obvious ploy for the mfgs to print $$ for themselves. Mine last waaaaayyy longer than that, probably 4x as long. As long as they are flowing well and you don't taste chlorine you are good to go. Same with the bigger undersink filter although mine only goes about 2x as long for me. I change that once a year.
 

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^^ I agree. My indicator light came on exactly 6 months after the machine was first plugged in. I reset it. Were on well with a whole house filter. If the water is potable coming out of the tap, it will be just as potable coming of out the fridge.
 
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