Redwood fence, same on both sides--how to construct

34399 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by asimba2, Jan 15, 2013

asimba2

Discussion Starter · Dec 5, 2012

Like the title says, I would like to build a 85' long redwood fence that looks the same on both sides. Similar to this:

I will use redwood 4x4 posts and 1x4 or 1x5 pickets, but how is the structure of the fence built? It looks like the stringers are 1x5s on the top and bottom AND on both sides with the pickets sandwiched down the middle?

Any fence building advice would be appreciated! I'm located near Sacramento, CA if that makes any difference.

See less See more

Save

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

joecaption

· #2 · Dec 5, 2012

If I had to do it I would not be using 1X's for the rails. I'd use 2 X4's instead.
I'd use a Krag tool to predrill the holes and use ceramic coated screws.
Set the rails, install the slats with two screws at the top and bottom, then go back and install the back side.
I also would never install the top rails dead flat. Instead set the back side slightly higher, then install the top cap.
Reason being it will allow the water to run off and not rot out the top cap.

Save

asimba2

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 5, 2012

Are you referring to the Kreg pocket hole jig like this?

The 1x5 pickets I bought are truely 1" thick. A 1" picket + the 2x4's actual thickness of 1.5" is 4" of material attached to a 3.5" wide 4x4 post. I guess I'm not sure how I get the flush look like shown in the photo with that arrangement.

I like the idea of slightly tilting the top cap.

See less See more

Save

joecaption

· #4 · Dec 5, 2012

That tool will work but just take twice as long as this one.
http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jig-HD-Prodview.html

Just to your side first, then the back side.
So what if it sticks out a 1/4" on the back side.

Save

AndyGump

· #5 · Dec 6, 2012

I do not believe that Kreg makes a coarse thread screw (for soft woods) in Galvanized or other weather resistant coating.
I would invest in a router and a couple of tongue and groove bits.

Andy.

Save

asimba2

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 6, 2012

joecaption said:
That tool will work but just take twice as long as this one.
http://www.kregtool.com/Kreg-Jig-HD-Prodview.html

Just to your side first, then the back side.
So what if it sticks out a 1/4" on the back side.

I will order the two pocket screw model, thanks.
Not to be snarky but the difference is 1/2," so at that point I don't see the advantage of using a 2x4 when a 1x4 will make the same contact with the fence. Am I missing something? haha.

Save

AndyGump

· #7 · Dec 6, 2012

Well the 2x4 is actually 1 1/2" thick and the 1x4 is 3/4" thick.
The larger dimension will not warp over time as much as the smaller dimension material will.
Also, if using pocket screws this will make the panels more ridged and will react together to weather and sun. Making the panels T&G will allow them to move independently, allowing for more expansion and contraction. Just my opinion.

Andy.

Save

asimba2

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 6, 2012

Thanks Andy. I thought my 1x5s measured a real 1" thick, but I will check again.

Also, I'm not dead-set on this particular design. If anyone has any other ideas for a nice privacy fence I am interested in hearing about it.

Save

asimba2

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jan 11, 2013

I finished the fence a couple of weeks ago and am very pleased with the results. Here is the "before" picture:

I took many of your suggestions under advisement. Starting from the bottom-up, I added pocket screw holes and 3" stainless steel screws to toenail pressure-treated 2x6s between the posts, then added pocket holes and used the same screws to toenail the bottom 2x4 to the 4x4 posts. I also ran a few screws down through both the 2x4 and into the 2x6 for extra rigidity. You can easily stand on the bottom stringer and there is no give. The top 2x4 stringer is attached the same way, then the 1x2 nailer was added on the back-side (SS screws every 16"), 1x5 pickets are brad-nailed top and bottom, sort of diagonally through the 2x4 stringers and a little into the 1x2 nailer plates. The front side 1x2 nailers were then added to button it up.

I will wait until June or so to stain the fence. This was my first major woodworking project, so thank you for the tips.

See less See more

Save

Impatient

· #10 · Jan 11, 2013

Looks good to me! (quite an improvement)

Save

asimba2

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 14, 2013

Thanks. I just got started on the double gate.

I started with a basic dog-eared framed gate design:

And added a few additions to dress it up a little:

I found some nice wrought iron-looking hinges and door pulls for a nice little finishing touch.

See less See more

Save

Fix'n it

· #12 · Jan 15, 2013

i like that design, its at the top of my list now.

Save

asimba2

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 15, 2013

Fix'n it said:
i like that design, its at the top of my list now.

Thanks! I will post up more pictures after I get it installed. I went a little overboard on the fence posts--I ended up using 3/16" thick 4x4 boxed steel buried over 3' deep in 200 pounds of concrete. The corner posts will out-last my house.

Save

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month