[dosby]

Opened a corner closet to have more usable space in my future basement family room, including under staircase shelving. Pics attached.
My question is about removing the load bearing stud wall on the left. I am planning to replace all of them with a single 4x4 post in the outer corner where a group of studs are now. Attaching to the floor is no brainer, I am planning to use a tapconed steel bracket.
The upper part is trickier. I am thinking of a steel corner bracket that would support both joists. The bracket that I found requires placing the post's end directly underneath the joists and it's probably very stable.
For the post to sit a bit (1.5") deeper in the corner, though, is it possible to attach it to the corner on the inside of the joists? They would not be sitting directly on the post in that case, but I thought with some blocking that would be doable.
Another question is what to do with the extra studs by the wall, are they safe to remove?
Thanks, and I understand it's hard to give advice unless you see all details, I am just curious about how this stuff is usually done and what else should I check.

(The post would only support the corner of the recessed area at the entrance to the house, so whatever # of ppl would fit the 3'x4' area plus the weight of the wood, I guess, 1000-2000 lbs or so)

 

[dosby]

no one had a similar problem?
I mean, the original closet was not much of a problem, just wanted to make that space more useful

 

[carpdad]

The photo does not show enough framing. You need to see how the landing was framed before knowing if the wall can be replaced with a post.
Post can be inside. Use bolts as done on decks. Upper post bracket is not necessary. Toenail (2 on each face) also will hold them together.
The long wall also can't be touched until you know what's holding up the stairs and anything above.

 

[dosby]

The photo does not show enough framing. You need to see how the landing was framed before knowing if the wall can be replaced with a post.
Post can be inside. Use bolts as done on decks. Upper post bracket is not necessary. Toenail (2 on each face) also will hold them together.
The long wall also can't be touched until you know what's holding up the stairs and anything above.

got it, thanks!
Looks like time to open up the ceiling above the corner, too. I was trying to avoid it but the piece is relatively small so it would be easy to hang new drywall there. It is not completely finished, anyway.

 

[dosby]

ok, so here is what's on top of the stairs
I also took pics inside the ceiling on both left and right sides, looks like there is just flooring (OSB) above - that is the recessed entrance pit
Left side must be supported by sistered joists, but now I wonder how the upper entrance area is supported.
In any case, I am sure 4 grouped studs in the corner could be replaced by a 4x4 or 4x6. The question is how exactly.

 

[carpdad]

It looks like you have a front entrance landing that is sunken then going up 2-3 treads to the livingroom floor. Because of the sunken landing, I am confused about how the floor joists are supported at that end. The entrance divider wall also sits on top of that stud wall. I think you will have to remove more sheetrock to find out if the landing is framed as a beam or just stud wall. The stairs landing also goes down another level and they are framed either as a beam or stud wall. If beam, single post may be possible (but may need a footing), but not for a stud wall. The ceiling drywall in the basement also need to be removed to see how the joists are supported. I can't tell, for example, if the photo 2 is showing 2x frame or just a panel. Even if it is a 2x10 box, it may need doubling and joist hanger at the wall end, for example. It all depends on how the landing framing and the joists are tied. I would leave the wall because a wall or a post, something is going to be in the way.

 

[dosby]

I would leave the wall because a wall or a post, something is going to be in the way.

Looks like it. The outer wall would not transition to new framing and drywall surface smoothly, anyway. I have a main water line that sticks out 3.5" off concrete wall, and that is farther than the existing framing/drywall on the left, which is a 2-3" total thickness. So if I am to remove a wall, I would have to transition between new and old. The wall would hide that transition better. I just wish I had not removed it at all. I was really expecting to see a 4x6 post there, in the corner.
I am Ok moving the valve up and turning it to hide behind an access panel, but not Ok shortening the stub that comes out of the concrete wall.
So the corner will be half-open, but I could still put some arts & crafts table for kids and some shelves on the right with some nicer overhead lamps. Will be much better than the crooked damp claustrafobic closet I am replacing.

 

[dosby]

Ok, so this is what I did, pics attached.
The new post is only holding a small entrance area about 3'x4', and only one corner of it
I figured 4x4 should be enough with its 6000 lbs weight limit
Also, each Simpson Tie is ~1000 lbs, and blocking should hold about the same or more, so 3000 lbs for stairs landing I think more than enough. The load is only occasional.

Also, reframed under staircase with another 4x4 - it's only holding the wall's weight, so should be fine.

Now I am thinking of a good layout, most likely, I will install kitchen cabinets under stairs and some bar counter around the new post. A simple dry bar, basically.