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Installing venting for a new range hood over an electric range. The vent is hung where it has to go and calls for a 6" round vent pipe. Since I need to go thru the wall directly, I have a 90 degree elbow which conveniently is bisected by a 2 x 6 wall stud from 0 - 2" inside the vent. My options appear to be to cut the stud and scab it on the other side with a 2 x 4 or somehow get a 6 - 4 reducer to bypass the problem without cutting.


Suggestions?
 

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You need to maintain the 6" duct all the way to the terminus. Cut the stud and box the space as you would installing an A/C.
Ron
 

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me too

You need to maintain the 6" duct all the way to the terminus. Cut the stud and box the space as you would installing an A/C.
Ron
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I am installing an over the range microwave.

I added a wet wall (2x4) to encase the plumbing so I can run the duct up there. What materials do you use to box the vent ? Thermopan sheets?
DOn't you worry about the greasy odor leaking out?

Which is better,wall or roof vent?

thanks Tina
 

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Which is better,wall or roof vent?
The best is whatever is shortest and has the least amount of turns. All else equal, I believe roof venting is better because hot air naturally rises, so you'd have that working for you. But so long as the run isn't far and you don't have many bends, either wall or roof will work just fine.
 

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I don't mean to hijack this thread but I am installing an over the range microwave.

I added a wet wall (2x4) to encase the plumbing so I can run the duct up there. What materials do you use to box the vent ? Thermopan sheets?
DOn't you worry about the greasy odor leaking out?

Which is better,wall or roof vent?

thanks Tina
I don't know what you mean by, "box the vent". your microwave probably will use the 3x 10" rectangular metal duct. Where you put the pieces together, you use metal tape to seal the joint. As stated before, the shorter the run, the better. The instructions will tell you the longest run allowed. Just realize it's not just linear feet they're talking about. Every bend is like adding 5 feet to the run due to the restrictive nature of a 90 degree turn.
Ron.
 

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As Ron says reducing the vent is not recommened, it will make the fan not only work harder, and will cause the fan to be much louder. Go around it or cut the stud.
 

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Toolbelt tina, do not box that vent in as you would with a cold air return duct. It is not allowed by code nor is it a good idea. Using anything other than a smooth metal interior is asking for a grease trap.
 

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a few more ?s

Toolbelt tina, do not box that vent in as you would with a cold air return duct. It is not allowed by code nor is it a good idea. Using anything other than a smooth metal interior is asking for a grease trap.
That was my thinking that you needed a solid piece vent re the grease.

This a cottage. After cooking my first meal I turned on the fan over the stove. I noticed the fan wasn't pulling in the air. Opened the cupboard above to discover no vent. And the cabinets were second hand so there was a hole for a vent. Not even a charcoal filter.

Can I take the rectangular duct and convert it to a flexible round duct of the same diameter?

Do they sell pieces of preformed ducts (straight run) or do I have to form my own?

Sorry I don't venture down that aisle much @ Lowes.
 

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Lowes has a selection of ducting and fittings. You may need a transition: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=193741-14-412H&lpage=none

And a roof termination: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=193741-14-634M&lpage=none

And an elbow, some straight pipe that comes flat, and some foil tape for all joints (even elbow). It comes in a few diameters, depending on the hood manufacturer's recommendation. Support the pipe in the attic, and a few screws in the joints, little sheet metal self-starters.

Or buy the whole package: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=295286-131-377&lpage=none And maybe more straight pipe. Be safe, G
 
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