[Porsche986S]

I hope this is in the right section of the forum , if not moderators please move it . My pick up weighs 7300 lbs. per the counties weight scale at the dump . For doing simple maintenance like oil/filter changes I need to get the front of the truck higher to make it easier to crawl under . I did an online search and too many negative reviews on the plastic style of ramps for my liking . So that narrows it down to conventional metal style or make my own out of wood .

What weight rating ramps are you guys using ? Are the plain Jane metal ramps sufficient ? I think most metal ramps are rated for 5,000 lbs. as a pair , that should work correct ? Or should I just slap together some 2x10's or 2x12's and be done with it ?

 

[jproffer]

I don't like trusting my life to something that's hollow, or at least partially hollow, like the steel ramps are. No matter how much they may have tested the "inner/under structure", I don't trust it. I either use wood blocks after using a jack...or use solid wood from the ground up ramps.

Some love the steel ramps, some love the plastic...it's just not for me. And my truck doesn't weigh anywhere near 7300#

 

[mark sr]

When I have to change the oil on a vehicle that doesn't have enough clearance I use a jack to raise it and remove the plug and filter, then lower it so the oil will drain properly.

 

[Windows on Wash]

+1.

I would get a proper floor jack and some jackstands. Leave the floor jack under it as well. You sure you really need the extra clearance?

 

[chandler48]

My ramps are a little longer than normal, and are made of channel aluminum with tread plate over the frame. Remember, steel will be slick and you may slide if tread metal is not used. I don't need ramps with the Ram 3500, but it is nice for the ZTR and smaller cars without clearance. Ram weighs in at 8300 lbs, but remember not all that weight will be exerted on the ramps.

 

[Porsche986S]

Forgot to mention I sometimes do oil changes on a concrete surface and other times on a gravel driveway . Any yes I've done enough oil changes on this truck to know some extra height/clearance is wanted by me . I think I will just make a pair of wood ramps out of 2x12's and be done with it . I have a 7K rated 2 post lift in my man cave but I just don't feel comfortable pushing the weight limit . I know there is probably a 20 % safety factor built in by the manufacturer but I'm not a gambler :biggrin2:

I work part time at an automotive shop that has 9K rated 2 post lifts , I have had my truck on those several times and didn't feel real good about being under the truck even then . Appreciate the feedback gentleman .

 

[Windows on Wash]

The weight rating on the lifts is more about the motors, usually, and less about the actual weight it can hold. If it can lift it, when the latch pins drop, it can usually hold it.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Like Porsche I never cared for the purchased ramps. When I was needing ramps several years ago I had a solid beam piece of lumber about the right X by X . Took the chain saw and cut in half on about a 20° angle. There, done except storage. Needing to hang on the garage wall to store I nailed a 1/4" piece of plywood to the bottom long enuff to extend about 6". Bored a 1" hole in that ply extension to hang on a nail in the wall stud. There, now i'm done.


I use those now to elevate the lawn tractor. On smooth garage concrete they tend to slide when ramping up but I've discovered a simple solution to remedy that.

 

[huesmann]

Rhino Ramps has a set that they claim a GVW capacity of 16,000 lb.

 

[SPS-1]

Or should I just slap together some 2x10's or 2x12's and be done with it ?

That's what I have (2 x 12's). But in my case, the home-made was just because I had an exceptionally low sportscar that required rather shallow ramp angle to not rub the front air dam.
But for a truck that heavy, it would be nice to have ramps with capacity stamped on them.

 

[Mystriss]

My husband's thinking to get these for that kinda stuff -

He's got metal ramps, but he thinks their too much of a pain to use (so he doesn't and uses jack stands and makes me pretty nervous) and the ramps don't really work with the trailblazer he says. Weight issue? Or maybe he's just trying to justify the toy purchase to himself lol)

 

[mark sr]

maybe he's just trying to justify the toy purchase to himself

sounds like a plan! :biggrin2:

 

[de-nagorg]

I use a hydraulic floor jack, then use CMU blocks under the tires to support my vehicles.

As a 23 year old, I crawled under a car that was supported by a jack in a snowbank , Well to shorten the story, it fell on me, cracked my skull, blinded one eye, deafened one ear, I spent 2 weeks in a coma, and 2 months learning to walk, feed myself, all the things a toddler learns once, I had to do all over again.

Anyway, I suggest that you use something even more substantial than a 2X12, as your ramps, Mystress's lift, is not strong enough for me, a neat toy, but trust my life to it, not gonna happen.

At the scrap iron recycle yard they have 10" wide Channel iron, that with a little modification, and an added set of 2X2 square tube legs for the height, you will have a strong HEAVY duty set that will last for your grandkids lifetime.

ED

 

[mark sr]

I wouldn't trust a cinder block as a jack stand!


2x12s are safe as long as you don't drive off of the edge. Those type of ramps aren't built like a typical ramp as they are laid flat each layer being shorter than the rest. A 6" tall ramp would be four 2x12s thick. IMO they are too heavy to use unless you have a dedicated space for them to always stay and be used.

 

[de-nagorg]

I wouldn't trust a cinder block as a jack stand!


2x12s are safe as long as you don't drive off of the edge. Those type of ramps aren't built like a typical ramp as they are laid flat each layer being shorter than the rest. A 6" tall ramp would be four 2x12s thick. IMO they are too heavy to use unless you have a dedicated space for them to always stay and be used.

CMU are not cinder block. and you do not place a load on the hollow , you place the load on the solid .

I had not pictured the 2X12s as a series of lengths stacked as you describe,

Yes that will support a load, but as you said, one must drive up the slope, not off the edge, or the end, So I would advise using a edging to prevent driving off.

A 2X2 should give the driver a feel for the edge.


ED

 

[Porsche986S]

Not sure how you would drive off the edge ? You have the wheels on the truck straight , you line up and push the ramps so they are touching the tires . Drive the truck forward about 18 - 24 inches and stop . You would have to be quite the dim bulb to get that wrong :biggrin2: Now going too far and driving off the end is possible , so mount a 2x12 stop on the end of the ramp and you are set . Only raising the vehicle 6 " so don't need a super structure , four 2x12's cut to varying lengths then glued and screwed together will last a VERY long time .

This discussion can be closed , I have my game plan just need to execute . Thanks to all that have given advice .

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Once ramps are set up for a particular vehicle you may be surprised how much work 3 tabs of black duck tape on the floor can save you the next time. 2 tabs to position the front of the ramps and 1 tab to the rear on the driver's side to position a length of 4x4 chock to stop the vehicle at a precise location.

 

[SPS-1]

Now going too far and driving off the end is possible , so mount a 2x12 stop on the end of the ramp and you are set . .

That's what I got.

 

[ukrkoz]

My husband's thinking to get these for that kinda stuff - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVMVVHOXJ6Y

He's got metal ramps, but he thinks their too much of a pain to use (so he doesn't and uses jack stands and makes me pretty nervous) and the ramps don't really work with the trailblazer he says. Weight issue? Or maybe he's just trying to justify the toy purchase to himself lol)

You can't use this on pickup truck. Those lifts are for unibody vehicles, truck is body on frame.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Yes you can.

They make attachments that put posts on the platforms to lift at the frame rails.