[Klawman]

I pulled a Kohler toilet to check for any leakage and replacee one of the two floor tie down bolts that sheared off some time in the past. So far so good, but I was talked into removing the tank, to make it easier to drop the toilet with new was seal in place. ( minor PITA even with the toilet out and good access to everything, probably due to corroded bolts.)

I got a generic set of bolts and seals from Home Depot, but think I should use the Kohler product. (Single triangular shaped seal with large hole in middlle for tank water and theree grommet type seals for three bolts.)

Questions:

Should I put the tank back on, before setting the toilet in place. Access to the plastic nuts was real bad due to the way the toilet is set in to an alcove, with a stupid tiled shelf just 5 inches above. I am wondering if it was a mistake to remove the tank, even if it will be heavier and more difficult to drop it in place, or if securing it with new bolts should be relatively easy. I can get my hand back there. Those thin screwdriver slots in the heads of the three tank bolts don't help, at least not when the heads are corroded.

Should I just reuse the same Kohler triangular seal? I may not be able to get another as it is Sunday, and it looks fine but rubber rots and I note that one of the three grommet type washers was not inserted though the bolt hole.

Do you have any suggestions or tips, like how to make the new wax seal stick to the bottom of the toilet as I drop it in place. (Other than pushing it on and hoping it sticks to the bottom of the toilet)

Thanks in advance.

 

[joecaption]

Set the wax ring inside the drain line not inside the toilet, smoosh out some of the wax to hold the closit bolts standing straight up.
I never remove the tank when just changing out a wax ring.

 

[Klawman]

Thanks Joe. I wondered about the instruction to push it on the bottom of the toilet and then set it in place. Probably should have left the tank on, but what is done is done. I will probably reinstall it before dropping the tank in place and do as you do, center the new wax seal on the flange.

 

[jagans]

I always replace gaskets and bolts once I take them out. Lowes usually carries Kohler parts. You can put the tank on first, but I usually don't due to age/back. Put some never sieze on all bolts. I put the wax ring on the toilet, but I put squat jamb nuts on to keep the hold down bolts vertical. Yes the slotted tank bolts are really dumb. Stainless Steel Socket head caps screws make much more sense.

 

[percygreen]

Kohlers frequently use a three-bolt tank-to-bowl kit. That one in the back can be a real pain to get to. On most new toilet installations I always set the bowl by itself and then mount the tank, but on new Kohlers I find it's easier to assemble the whole toilet and then set it.

As Joe said, when pulling/resetting an existing installation, there's usually no need to take the tank off.

 

[Klawman]

Jagans and PercyGreen;

Turns out that the HD had the Kohler 3 hole tank seal kit, and it came with much nicer hex head bolts with some kind of rubberized coating. Had they hot had it, I would have been off to Lowes 5 miles away. If I can get a socket on it with an extension, I will probably set the tank on after the bowl is in place. I also want to protect a back.

One thing I noticed was that the Kohler gasket had been installed OVER the large p[latic nut and washer for thestand pipe (Not sure what to call it, but it is the plastic pipe to which the plastic tube from the Fill Valve carries water). I am putting them on on the outside of the seal as per the picture on the back of the package.

 

[Klawman]

Got that job done. Placed toilet without tank, by myself, and installing tank wasn't too bad with a ratchet. Of course the crappy washers that came with the wax seals barely span the holes in the base of the Kohler tank, but I will pick up some good washers and nut caps at a local plumbing supply during the week. Thaks again all.

 

[Alan]

Buy a one-piece, then you won't have to worry about whether or not to remove or install the tank. :laughing::jester:

 

[Klawman]

Buy a one-piece, then you won't have to worry about whether or not to remove or install the tank. :laughing::jester:

Better, yet. Just leave a hole in the floor to squat over.:whistling2:

On a more serious note,:wink: when I had to move the original construcion flexible water line out of the way I heard a crunchy sound as thought it was breaking mineral depoits or something up internally. This is the stuff that looks like armoured cable and is one piece with the valve. I am swapping that out today. The house built just 6 months after mine got flooded out last year, when the same line broke while the owner was gone for the day. The repair bill was over $20,000. (And I am not using the cheap original construction piece of ****. If the compression ring doesn't come off easily, I am buying a puller.)

 

[jagans]

Yeah, and they may have one piece backs by now with no disks in them. :laughing:

Buy some Stainless fender washers to span. Drill out to 5/16 with a step drill.

 

[Klawman]

Yeah, and they may have one piece backs by now with no disks in them. :laughing:

Buy some Stainless fender washers to span. Drill out to 5/16 with a step drill.

Cool Jagans. We have a good plumbing supply nearby (a hole in the wall that caters to trades) and I am going there to get three sets of toilet water lines and new valves as well as three setsof those things that cover the span and prevent corrosion. HD is good for a lot of things, if you know what to look for, but some of it is trash and these guys have great prices. I guess they sell to me at wholesale.

As for the one piece backs, I even put on my HD back support to place that bowl.