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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to install gutters on my 1975 house. It has never had gutters.
I have a few questions.

Until a few months ago I had never heard of a drip edge. I don't think that I have one. I have included pictures to make sure. Do gutter installers normally add this or would it require a second type of contractor?

Also, the entire soffit or whatever it's called is wrapped in colored aluminum. Does this cause a problem? Are the fasteners installed through the metal or does it need to be peeled back or drilled or what?

Last I think I would ultimately like the downspouts to be buried into pipes running to culverts at the edge of the yard, 30 - 50 feet away. I wonder if I need to get these runs dug in advance and have it all done at the same time or if I can just add gutters now and dig the ditches later. That is, can regular gutters be easily retrofitted to buried lines?

I do plan on talking to the gutter installers about these things but wanted to get my thoughts straight first. I'd like to be prepared in advance. If you have additional recommendations I'm listening.

I know this is DIY site and I might actually do some things like dig ditches but I think the gutters is more ladder work than I'm comfortable with.

Thanks
 

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Looking at your pictures I would say there is no reason to retrofit any sort of drip edge. The fasteners for the gutter should drill right through the fascia wrap with no problem assuming there is something solid to screw in to behind it.
I would say yes to downspouts easily retrofitted to underground drainage if that's best for you. Just be sure they drop the downspouts close to the ground and put elbos on in a fashion easily removed.
 

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I would suggest not burying the drain pipe unless you just like work. The issue is in a blowing rain, you'll get plastic bags, leaves from down the street, all kinds of crap will end up in the gutters from being washed off of the roof. That's now going into the drain pipe. You'll be constantly trying to clear this junk out so it drains correctly. I would suggest having the downspouts draining onto a concrete diverter to keep soil erosion to a minimum.
 

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I own two houses with under ground soild PVC used for the drain that both run into a ditch at the street and never once had trash block the drains.
I'd want the ditchs done first so they would know where the down spouts need to go.
Lowe's and HD both stock down spout adapters for SCH. 20 PVC pipe.
 

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I would say its not necessary to dig the ditches first but you should pre-plan where you would want them and where downspouts make sense on your house. Once you have that dual plan have the downspouts located accordingly. Then when its convenient to dig the ditches its all predetermined.
At that point start digging at the downspout since that is the high point.
You don't actually have to have the trench drop uniformly and you can even have some "high-points" in the middle as long as the exit is considerably lower than the entry point. Some water can collect in the middle just like a drain trap under your sink.
 

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Your roofing overhangs a lot, which is good and why you don't need a drip edge. But if you use regular size gutters, you may end up with a reduced area for catching the water. Use larger (6") gutter and leaders. Gutter also must butt flat against the facia. You may want to remove the 1x trim on the facia which you will not see anyway with the gutter.
The gutter also must have enough slope. Many gutters are installed almost level, which looks good but bad for draining and self cleaning. I go by eye and want to see the slope. Forget "new tech" gutter screens. I use aluminum drop in screens (3' lengths and reinforced front edge) that can be slipped under the shingles and locked/screwed to the front of the gutter.
Use a catch basin at the beginning of the culvert pipe which helps with keeping it open.
 

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You don't have to remove the 1x4s.. They can attach the gutters to those.. Gutters also don't technically be flat against the fascia.. There are situations when the rafter tail isn't plumb cut but could be square cut. In which case you would need clips installed to hold the gutter off the fascia so the gutter itself is still plumb.. Just saying..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input.

I've read so many threads with some variation of "of course that's wrong, where's the drip edge?!" that I was worried whether I need one or not. I guess not if the shingles overhang enough.

I think I will just get the gutters on is that is the priority and worry about ditch digging later.
 
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