[TyWebb]

I purchased a new smart switch for our bedroom and it requires a neutral wire in the light switch box. The way the lights are wired, the power comes into the first lighting fixture and there is no neutral in the box.

The previous owner fancied himself a DIY guy and installed the recessed lights himself. I went up into the attic to see how I could re-route the lines to get a neutral in the light box, I noticed he wired the lights and run to the switch with 14g but the breaker in the panel is a 20 amp breaker. It appears the run to the breaker box was done in 12g wire, however (I need to confirm that, as I didn't look close enough).

Now I am faced with a dilemma. I can run all new 12g wire and keep the 20A breaker or the easier move might be to just switch out the breaker for a 15A one. I am not sure why he used a 20A breaker as the only fixtures on the line are the ceiling fan and then 8 LED recessed lights. I guess for future expansion?

Anyway, if I switch the breaker, I believe the codes have changed and new breakers need to be CAFCI, correct? Or because this 20A line was installed prior to code changes, can I just switch it out for a regular 15A breaker?

Thanks.

 

[JimmyJones99]

Just use a 15 amp breaker and be done with it.

 

[joed]

If you want the smart switch and are going run a new cable just change the run from the light to switch with a 12/3 and you should be fine if that is the only #14 on the circuit.

 

[TyWebb]

Additional information - there is a junction box in the attic. It is powered from the panel with 12g wire. From the junction box, there is a run of 14g to power the ceiling fan and then a run of 14g wire to the first recessed light. From there, each light is connected with 14g line and the line from the first recessed light to the switch is also 14g.

I need to create a neutral connection in the light switch box which means I need to power the box directly whereas now the first light is the power source.

It gets weirder as I did more investigating since I posted this. At the back of the light switch box is another line that is nutted off (hot and neutral nutted together). I assumed it was a dead line that the owner didn't remove. But after using a NVC tester, I discovered that nutted off line is hot. It's a completely different circuit.

I was able to track it to a receptacle nearby. It seems that the old light in the bedroom was on that circuit and the owner removed that line from the switch when he created the new circuit to power the lights and fan. The receptacle is powered from the panel and then was split to power other receptacles as well as the old light. In that old configuration, the box was powered directly from the receptacle and then a line ran to the old light.

I can disconnect that live wire in the back of the box from the receptacle and can then use that line to create the neutral connection I would need in the light switch box. All it would take is just rewiring the configuration where instead of powering the the lights, I can power the light switch box first easily since there are two lines already in the box, if that makes sense.

But again, since I am reconfiguring the line and have to go back to a 15A breaker, should I use a CAFCI? A buddy said just use a regular 15A line as no one will know when the circuit was reconfigured but I want to make sure I do this right.

Thanks again guys,.

 

[JimmyJones99]

Additional information - there is a junction box in the attic. It is powered from the panel with 12g wire. From the junction box, there is a run of 14g to power the ceiling fan and then a run of 14g wire to the first recessed light. From there, each light is connected with 14g line and the line from the first recessed light to the switch is also 14g.

I need to create a neutral connection in the light switch box which means I need to power the box directly whereas now the first light is the power source.

It gets weirder as I did more investigating since I posted this. At the back of the light switch box is another line that is nutted off (hot and neutral nutted together). I assumed it was a dead line that the owner didn't remove. But after using a NVC tester, I discovered that nutted off line is hot. It's a completely different circuit.

I was able to track it to a receptacle nearby. It seems that the old light in the bedroom was on that circuit and the owner removed that line from the switch when he created the new circuit to power the lights and fan. The receptacle is powered from the panel and then was split to power other receptacles as well as the old light. In that old configuration, the box was powered directly from the receptacle and then a line ran to the old light.

I can disconnect that live wire in the back of the box from the receptacle and can then use that line to create the neutral connection I would need in the light switch box. All it would take is just rewiring the configuration where instead of powering the the lights, I can power the light switch box first easily since there are two lines already in the box, if that makes sense.

But again, since I am reconfiguring the line and have to go back to a 15A breaker, should I use a CAFCI? A buddy said just use a regular 15A line as no one will know when the circuit was reconfigured but I want to make sure I do this right.

Thanks again guys,.

You are not getting it inspected so you are already doing it wrong, use whatever breaker you want.

 

[TyWebb]

Actually I am likely going to get it inspected now and hold off on work until I can talk to our code office and see what they say (and what previous owner got permits on). Given what I have found, I am not sure the previous owner did everything properly. For example, He apparently also finished the basement himself and did all the electrical work down there. He had to have gotten the basement work permitted but then did he mess with electrical after inspection?

 

[joed]

1. with all that #14 cabling you need to change the breaker to a 15 amp.
2. I would disconnect the current feed to the light and rewire the current unused cable from the receptacle be a hot and neutral feed to the switch box. Then power the light with the current cable that is the switch loop.