I need to remove about a 12ft section of baseboard heater. The furnace is in the basement, the section I want to demo is on the floor above, there is no 2nd floor. The pipes are not copper, they are black iron with cast iron fittings. I need to drain and properly refill and purge the air. In the picture you can see I drew a rough example of how the section runs. The part I circled green is the section I need to remove. I can't remove this entire run of pipe because it has sections I need to remain. Just what's in the green needs to go. So I need to drain, demo the section out, refill and purge the air. Any help is appreciated. I can also take pictures or video of anything to help.
Question about removing baseboard heater
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Please see this thread for uploading photos
Oh, and welcome to DIYChatroom
Please see this thread for uploading photos
Oh, and welcome to DIYChatroom
Here is a video I took of the section. I can take pics as well if needed, thank you.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mranvil/23954955585/in/datetaken-public/
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I'd have to flip a quarter. To decide if I wanted to run cooper or pex in the basement to join the 2 you want to keep. But all you have to do, is cut the pipe(the one going to the baseboard your not keeping) 2" from the elbow. Unscrew the stub from the elbow, and screw an adapter in. Do the same to the elbow of the other baseboard you want to keep. And then run the copper, or pex from the one elbow to the other.
Don't forget to drain system first. LOL
Don't forget to drain system first. LOL
That is the least of my concern, if down the road I think it needs it I will add an electric unit in the kitchen. I need direction on doing the work though.
Ok, what I need to know is how to drain and refill, then purge the air. This is my problem.
The circulator in the middle is the one involved for the section I need to demo out. I've also located the red flow valve that works for the section I need to demo out. I drew red arrows on the pipe that leads to the section I need to demo out.
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Turn off boiler.
In pic 1, you'll want to turn the red lever on top of those flow checks(red devices with the plug in the bottom of them) open.
Close the yellow handled valve before the grey tank. Its the fill valve for the system.
Need a pic of the bottom of the boiler to see where the drain valve is. Should be after the circulators.
After you have the new pipe installed. Close the flow checks and drain valve. Close the yellow handled valves under each circulator. connect a garden hose to the valve above the circulator on the left. Open that valve, then open the yellow handled fill valve at the gray tank. Fill until only water comes out. Close valve garden hose is connected to, and repeat for the other 2 zones. Then turn boiler back on.
In pic 1, you'll want to turn the red lever on top of those flow checks(red devices with the plug in the bottom of them) open.
Close the yellow handled valve before the grey tank. Its the fill valve for the system.
Need a pic of the bottom of the boiler to see where the drain valve is. Should be after the circulators.
After you have the new pipe installed. Close the flow checks and drain valve. Close the yellow handled valves under each circulator. connect a garden hose to the valve above the circulator on the left. Open that valve, then open the yellow handled fill valve at the gray tank. Fill until only water comes out. Close valve garden hose is connected to, and repeat for the other 2 zones. Then turn boiler back on.
The kitchen and the rest of the first floor are on the same zone which has it's own circulator yes.
I could be wrong but it appears to me that the basement which is on a separate zone has it's on circulator, the floor above which is where the kitchen is has it's own circulator and then there's one more circulator which goes to the indirect hot water heater. So there's a total of 3 circulators.
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