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hi, i'm new to the forum.

I have an attic ladder that I'm installing. The ceiling joists are perpendicular to the door access. This will be in our hallway.

What we noticed is that the joists above the hallway are short, only spanning from one wall to the other. I'm not really worried about it supporting anything since its so short anyway, but what I am worried about is supporting the actual door. Once we cut the joists, we are probably going to be left with maybe 8 inches on each side. I have considered putting in a joist support board over those, and spanning enough to cover two solid joists on each side in order to support those shorter (cut) boards, but I"m not sure if this is the best way to go. Any suggestions?

this is the image i got the idea from (although my joists are perpendicular vs this image). Imagine on the 2 sides of the door, there will be only about 6-8 inches of board left...and the support would cover these plus others that weren't cut.
 

· AHH, SPANS!!!
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Thanks, but this doesn't address the issue i was inquiring about. I know what I need to do as far as double headers etc....i mean the leftover 6-8 inches on each side is what I'm worried about
the attic ladder hangs off the doubles on the ends and not down the length...

for proper placement, if possible pick a side and align that one side of the attic door with one of the hall joists that are in place already saving from having to add a new double at both ends of the door, just sister/double up the joist you chose. This helps but if it does not fit where you want the door to go in your hall space correctly then just figure using new double joists at both ends to hang the door off of.

Short hall joists span the hall distance and sit on the top wall plates and at that intersect point most likely side lap onto the longer joists that go to the exterior walls forming the other rooms. if you nail or screw the lap joint together you can then cut back the hall joists to accommodate the attic door opening even being 6 to 8 inches if needed.
First I find from in the attic the spot for the door and stick a few nails down through the drywall at the corners and then from below on a ladder I lay out the opening that needs to be cut on the drywall and cut that first then get into the joist cuts later. Now, with the drywall opening cut out- for the sides of the opening measure back 1 1/2" past the drywall cut and make/scribe vertical lines onto the joists using a speed square. cut these lines with a sawz all careful not to cut the drywall below if possible.if done correctly there will be a 1 1/2" lip of drywall floating past your cuts. match you current joist size and add 2- 2x down the sides cut from the inside of the double to double joists forming the sides of your opening.

Note- you will need the doubles established at each end first to then determine which hall joists to cut out.

edit.... add joist hangers at every 90 degree intersect at the joists. example- you will need 4 single joist hangers to connect the side pieces that butt the doubles and add hangers to the joists you cut 6 to 8 inches believe it or not. failed code years ago for not putting hanger on a 6 inch joist on the sides of the attic door.
 

· AHH, SPANS!!!
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thank you guys
glad to help. if you do need new doubles at both ends consider fill in blocks added after its built that are lined up with the wall plates and go from the double to the joists next to the double. this keeps the double from rocking on its seat point and pressing outward or moving. adding attic flooring (plywood) around the new opening helps this too...
 
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