[tireshark]

This is a ford 800 series... 850 specifically. I've never messed with the brakes on this tractor, but i have replaced drum brakes on a truck before.

The problem is that the brakes dont work on the tractor... when i press the brake pedals they just go down to the floorboard and dont slow anything down (or if they do i dont notice it). Do you think adjusting them might get them to work?

It usually takes me a long time to do anything like this, so i just was curious if devoting the time to jacking the back tires up (at least the manual says i have to jack them up) and figuring out how to adjust them would possibly solve the issue.

If it sounds like the tires will need removed and the drum assembly messed with, then i might leave it for another time.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[de-nagorg]

At this time it sounds to me like you need to rebuild some hydraulic cylinders, but I ain't there to actually test that theory.

Is there any pressure buildup at all when depressing the pedal?

ED

 

[DexterII]

I'm thinking that you have adjusting screws behind the axle on each side, and yes, you would jack the rear wheels up so that you can turn them, and then run those screws in to tighten and and back out to get them where you want them. Once you have the shoes adjusted, I'm thinking that the right side has one long actuator arm with the pedal on one end, and the left side has a pedal connected to a shaft, and that you have a yoke in there someplace that can be adjusted to get your pedals lined up.

 

[47_47]

Sounds like a long time since the last service. Pivots, adjusters... are probably frozen. I'd plan on doing a reline and consider myself extremely lucky to get away with an adjustment. Last one I did was my uncles '69 Satoh. Wasn't hard, just different. Be careful, your tires may be loaded.

 

[DexterII]

I don't disagree with the possibility or maybe even likelihood that you might find it needs more than simple adjustments, but given the relative simplicity of theses brakes, and the added work to remove the wheels and axle housings, I would try adjusting them first. That said, I think the adjusting screws I mentioned are threaded into the axle, I would give the threads a shot of Break Away, and see if they turn. You definitely don't want to mess up the axle housings though, so if you have to reef on them too hard it may be time to pull the housings. And, of course, a lot depends on how the tractors was used and stored, but chances are pretty good that you have enough pad left to run a while.

 

[tireshark]

Well i went out, jacked it up, and adjusted them.

The left side adjustment thing had no resistance at all when i turned it, and the brake does nothing, so it seems like that tire will need the wheel taken off to check things out inside the drum.

The right side had resistance when i turned the adjuster, and i turned it a good bit to try and get it to work better.

Here's the weird thing... on that right tire when i am moving forward and apply the brake (with the clutch in, of course), it really doesn't do anything and the pedal goes down to the floorboard with no resistance... but if i am in reverse, it stops the tractor like it should.

I repeated this many times and it was always the same thing... if the tire was moving forward (even just coasting in neutral) the brake did nothing... but if the tire was moving in reverse, the brake worked like it should. I could coast up in neutral on a slight incline and the brake wouldnt work at all, but the instant it rolled to a stop and started rolling backwards the brake would instantly work.

Any ideas as to why the brake will work in reverse, but not in forward drive?

 

[DexterII]

You will probably find that one of the shoes is bad and one is, well, okay. It's a relatively simple cam action that spreads the shoes, and then a spring that pulls them back in. So, as 47_47 said earlier, you're probably due for a reline. The problem with that is that they're not a lot of guys with presses to reline shoes any more, although I do actually have an antique one in my shop, but the good news is that I don't think you will have any problem finding new shoes for it. Plan on safely jacking and blocking it, remove the tire and wheel, be careful because as mentioned they're heavy, and could be heavier if loaded, then you can slip the axle housing off and do the brakes. I can't remember off the top of my head, but would replace the seal in the end of the housing if applicable. Once you have one done, the second should be easy, so would do that as well.

 

[tireshark]

yeah looks like i will need to set aside some time to remove the tires and get everything in the drum working properly. thanks everyone.