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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Would like to get some advice about replacing a dip tube in my heater. It is from 1996 or so. Please see the attached pictures.

Can I do this without cutting the water pipe? Any specific things to consider? Step-by-step instructions would be appreciated. :)

The heater information:
Model: FSG 40 232 v.s. cap Gal. 40
Part no: FSG--40-F00N010000

Thank you!
 

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· A "Handy Husband"
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Why do you think you need to replace the dip tube? No need to cut any pipe. The dip tube is below the cold water inlet, just remove the flex connector and try to unscrew the cold water nipple. On a 24 year old WH, the odds are not in your favor.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why do you think you need to replace the dip tube? No need to cut any pipe. The dip tube is below the cold water inlet, just remove the flex connector and try to unscrew the cold water nipple. On a 24 year old WH, the odds are not in your favor.

Sent from my RCT6A03W13E using Tapatalk
The reason I wanted to do this is that when using a shower at full speed, the water gets gold rather quickly. A broken off/deteriorated dip tube is a primary suspect here from what I know, as it may not reach all the way down.

I am not sure about your notion about the odds, though. Could you, please, elaborate?

Thanks!
 

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as mentioned, the dip tube is under the cold water inlet. I agree with you, replacing it may help. However, at over 24 years old, and depending on your water quality it may be nearing it's end. Just a thought.

The information you seek, step by step instructions on how to do this is available by watching a few utube videos. Just google how to replace water heater dip tube. Make sure you use plenty of pb blaster on that inlet valve and be careful not to bend it.

Although it is pretty simple and straight forward, I have seen people ruin their wh inlet valve threads and had to end up getting a new wh.
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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A steel nipple in a steel tank after 24 years gets "welded" to each other. You can twist the nipple right out of the tank before the threads release. But at 24 years a new WH should be a consideration.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
as mentioned, the dip tube is under the cold water inlet. I agree with you, replacing it may help. However, at over 24 years old, and depending on your water quality it may be nearing it's end. Just a thought.

The information you seek, step by step instructions on how to do this is available by watching a few utube videos. Just google how to replace water heater dip tube. Make sure you use plenty of pb blaster on that inlet valve and be careful not to bend it.

Although it is pretty simple and straight forward, I have seen people ruin their wh inlet valve threads and had to end up getting a new wh.
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
as mentioned, the dip tube is under the cold water inlet. I agree with you, replacing it may help. However, at over 24 years old, and depending on your water quality it may be nearing it's end. Just a thought.

The information you seek, step by step instructions on how to do this is available by watching a few utube videos. Just google how to replace water heater dip tube. Make sure you use plenty of pb blaster on that inlet valve and be careful not to bend it.

Although it is pretty simple and straight forward, I have seen people ruin their wh inlet valve threads and had to end up getting a new wh.
Well, so far I didn't succeed. For how long is PB Blaster supposed to be left there to penetrate? Should a few hours be enough? Thanks!
 

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Sorry about that. it was worth a shot. 24 years takes it toll on everything.

If after a couple hours and still no joy, best to leave it alone then because as stated, you will just end up bending and breaking off galvanized nipple and then you will have to get a new wh. Best to start saving for a new one. about 500 dollars at any big box store for a 40 gallon natural gas wh.

Your set-up is pretty straight forward and you shouldn't have any problems. Biggest issue will be getting new one downstairs and old one out to the street. Make sure you have help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Sorry about that. it was worth a shot. 24 years takes it toll on everything.

If after a couple hours and still no joy, best to leave it alone then because as stated, you will just end up bending and breaking off galvanized nipple and then you will have to get a new wh. Best to start saving for a new one. about 500 dollars at any big box store for a 40 gallon natural gas wh.

Your set-up is pretty straight forward and you shouldn't have any problems. Biggest issue will be getting new one downstairs and old one out to the street. Make sure you have help.
I have to agree. By the way, it is in my garage, so there is no need to haul it down or up any stairs.

One plumber suggested that, if this WH is to be replaced, he would install an expansion tank with it. I am not positive I fully grasped the rationale behind that suggestion, however. Such a tank is needed to prevent backflow of water into the cold supply pipe, yet my present system forked fine w/o it for so many years.
 

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Such a tank is needed to prevent backflow of water into the cold supply pipe,
No, the expansion tank is need to allow water to flow back into the cold water pipe.


When cold water enters the water heater and is heated, it expands. That increases the water pressure in the household water system.

If you are on a well that increased pressure causes water to flow back into your well tank and the pressure in the house is maintained.
If your are on a municipal water system and there is no pressure reducing valve or the pressure reducing valve does not include a check valve, the increased pressure caused by heating the water in the water heater pushes cold water back in the municipal system thereby maintaining the desired household pressure.
If you are on a municipal water system and there is a pressure reducing valve and that valve includes a check valve, your household system cannot push water back into the municipal system. That creates excessive pressure in your household system until such time that a faucet is open relieving that excessive pressure.


If you are on a municipal system with a pressure reducing valve that incorporates a check valve, you need the expansion tank.


The expansion tank is a tank of air pressurized to the desired pressure of the water system. When the water pressure in your system is increased due to the heating, water is pushed into the expansion tank. You can compress air, you cannot compress water. This helps maintain the desired pressure of you residential water system.
 

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I have to agree. By the way, it is in my garage, so there is no need to haul it down or up any stairs.

One plumber suggested that, if this WH is to be replaced, he would install an expansion tank with it. I am not positive I fully grasped the rationale behind that suggestion, however. Such a tank is needed to prevent backflow of water into the cold supply pipe, yet my present system forked fine w/o it for so many years.
Glad your wh is in the garage. it will be an easy swap out for you.

Your plumber may be right. Xpansion tanks may be required on all new installs depending on your local municipality code. Additionally, I believe some homeowners insurance companies now require it as well before they will insure the house.

You are also correct, I've seen many houses that do not have an xpansion tank on their wh's either and everything works fine. They also didn't have any pressure reducing valves or backflow preventer valves either. The problem comes in when you have/create a closed loop system as hk explained the water heats up and has no where to go but out the wh's tpr valve.
 
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