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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I removed my toilet because it was leaking between base of toilet and the floor. As it turns out the metal attached (RED RING) to the PVC (OATEY CASPERS ASTM PVC D2665 ABS D2661 BLACK ABS 43512) is rusty and bent all up. I'm sure the metal is bent up because I over tighten screws to correct the wobbling previously. The top of pvc pipe that attaches the flange is cracked..It looks like the PVC flange part is glued into another PVC pipe that goes into the ground under my concrete slab.
I’m NOTsure what to do next?
 

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· HVAC / Plumbing
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At this point there's not much to do. You can try to use a hacksaw blade & saw down into the flange & try to break it out & install a new flange try to repair that 1 with some type epoxy that won't harm the PVC
 

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Don't they make add-on flanges that is reduces the diameter of the pipe and fits down inside an existing pipe. I would check out a local plumbing distributor for a more permanent fix then epoxy (make sure you take the dimensions of the pipe and any additional information you might need with you to the store).

Maybe some plumbing pros will chime in on this.
 

· HVAC / Plumbing
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Don't they make add-on flanges that is reduces the diameter of the pipe and fits down inside an existing pipe. I would check out a local plumbing distributor for a more permanent fix then epoxy (make sure you take the dimensions of the pipe and any additional information you might need with you to the store).

Maybe some plumbing pros will chime in on this.

If he has no other option than to cut the concrete
When properly applied,,,Some epxoy are stronger than the material it's used on
 

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I never understood why the primary attachment point of a toilet is the closet flange. If the bowl wobbles or rocks, all of the strain is transmitted to the drain pipe. Then, if the drain pipe is embedded in concrete there is no give and the flange breaks. Instead there should have been some attachment to (building) structure namely the floor.

At the very least shim or otherwise solve the wobbling problem using a test fit before installing the wax ring.

Yes they make a somewhat conical fitting that goes down into the drain pipe a little ways (used with a new wax ring) so you don't get spillage around the flange onto the floor. It may or may not fit under all brands of toilets.

I might be tempted to glue the crack shut. This depends on being able to spread the crack apart so the glue can be stuffed down using a toothpick and quickly enough all around so that the pipe is welded back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone for your replies:no: I'm not sure if anyone cares or not but this is what I ended up doing:
Went local hardware store and bought the following:
Die Grinder for hand drill. - 5.98
3" PVC SIPGOT Flange - 3.93 (this is name on the reciept)
Jumbo wax Ring - 4.98
Achors - 6.48
PVC Cement - had some already.

Here's a pic ..
The DIE Grinder is the thing on the Drill. I cut below the crack on PVC the soil stack (i think that's what u call it).
The 3" PVC SIPGOT flange is the white thing on the right.
Set the new PVC SIPGOT flange with some PVC cement
Anchor to PVC SIPGOT to floor.

We are good to GO now...
 

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