[ponch37300]

Mys sister's house has some older cabinets in pretty good shape. The counter top looks to be just some 3/4" plywood and then laminate with a metal trim on the edge. She doesn't have money to redo everything at this time but she would like to update it a little bit. Wondering if we can rip off the metal edge trim and screw down another layer of 3/4" plywood to make a 1 1/2" thick counter and then using contact cement lay new sheets of laminate on it. Starting with the edges and then the top. I've done some laminate work before and have a trim router so I think it can be done. But just want to see if there is any reason why I shouldn't do this? Any tips or advice on doing this?

 

[Msradell]

I actually don't see why you would have to even add another sheet of plywood if that existing layer of laminate is well adhered. You should be able to just rough up the service of it with heavy sandpaper and then glue directly to it. I've done something similar couple of times and it came out looking great.

 

[ponch37300]

The only reason I wanted to add the extra layer was to get a 1 1/2" thick edge. I don't really like how it looks with just 3/4" thick edge.

 

[ChuckF.]

If you look through scratch & dents and returns at HD and Lowes you could probably find a new countertop for less than the cost of materials for what you propose. It's hard work because every store location will have different stuff, but great deals can be had. I picked one up for a garage workbench years ago.

 

[ponch37300]

If you look through scratch & dents and returns at HD and Lowes you could probably find a new countertop for less than the cost of materials for what you propose. It's hard work because every store location will have different stuff, but great deals can be had. I picked one up for a garage workbench years ago.

The local menards carries "stock" laminate countertops. They come in a variety of colors and lengths and edge profiles and also have miter sections. Think they just order a truck load variety pack from the manufacturer and call them stock and sell them for real decent prices.

But the problem is that this counter is a C shape and one end is a peninsula so you won't find the right size and combo of countertop pieces I would need. So no in stock or scratch and dent or returns is going to work. If I was going to do new countertops I would have to custom order them to fit.

 

[de-nagorg]

The key to the whole thing is that "YOU THINK THAT YOU CAN DO IT",

In my experience if you think that you can do it YOU CAN.

That said I believe that this sounds like a simple job, the only problem would be the edge trim, are you going to trim it with a narrow laminate, or try to find some wider metal trim?

You have experience, a trim router, and a mind, all essential tools needed,

A thicker counter top is better looking ,but will cause a small loss of under cabinet space if she has any taller appliances, (blender, coffee pot, stand mixer, etc), to store under there.

So go for it.


ED

 

[ponch37300]

The key to the whole thing is that "YOU THINK THAT YOU CAN DO IT",

In my experience if you think that you can do it YOU CAN.

That said I believe that this sounds like a simple job, the only problem would be the edge trim, are you going to trim it with a narrow laminate, or try to find some wider metal trim?

You have experience, a trim router, and a mind, all essential tools needed,

A thicker counter top is better looking ,but will cause a small loss of under cabinet space if she has any taller appliances, (blender, coffee pot, stand mixer, etc), to store under there.

So go for it.


ED

For the edge I plan to rip 2" strips from the sheet of laminate. I think this will be the easiest and best looking option. I would make a wood edge and nail it on except the counter has that round peninsula. So I think laminate will work the best since I can bend it around that rounded part.

 

[de-nagorg]

It's just my opinion, but I think that when the top laminate sheet laps over the side strip, it looks better than the other way around.

To me when the side laminate laps up to cover the edge of the top, it looks kind of amateurish, not to mention that it leaves a distinct stripe all the way around the counter.

So I would install the edge band first, then cover the edge and top as a unit.


ED

 

[ponch37300]

It's just my opinion, but I think that when the top laminate sheet laps over the side strip, it looks better than the other way around.

To me when the side laminate laps up to cover the edge of the top, it looks kind of amateurish, not to mention that it leaves a distinct stripe all the way around the counter.

So I would install the edge band first, then cover the edge and top as a unit.


ED

Thanks ED, that is my plan. I always do the sides first. Looks better and also creates a better water seal.

 

[jlhaslip]

Just a quick thought about gluing laminate to those radius edges.
If you add the 3/4 inch ply to the top, the counter is now 1 1/2 in thick.

Cut the edge strips wider than the 2 inch you plan on using. If you contact cement the edges and they are "just a little bit" off-level/square to the world, the edge pieces will climb or fall away resulting in not covering the edge properly. Don't ask me how I know...

Using an Epoxy rather than Contact cement will give you a longer working time as well in order to adjust the strip. Plan on making your joints somewhere away from the radius edges will also help.