I'm not a drywall nor a plaster guy, so take what I say below with a big grain of salt!
I have lots of experience opening walls in old Detroit commercial buildings to install conduit. I'd always hang around when the plasterers or drywall installers worked so I could learn. (And pester them to death with my questions...)
It sure is an art to make beautiful drywall & plaster!
I figured that plaster and lathe wood add significant strength to a structure but my engineer father in law didn't think it would be so significant.
I'd have to think the lath, plus the resultant keys, would have a whole lot more stability than drywall, screws and mud. As I remember, plaster itself is stronger than even setting mud. (Ask my sandpaper)
A substitute for the solidity & durability of plaster, which I learned long ago from a plasterer, was to put cement backer board on the studs, then thin drywall over it. (Using something like Wonderboard for the backer- not Hardie board) He would use setting mud to adhere the drywall to the backer board.
You end up with a very solid wall with much of the sound deadening properties of plaster & lath.
If you do remove the plaster, be sure to work safely and be certain that your vacuum can filter the dust very well. (And mask on!)
I've wrecked a lot of vacuums where the dust gets through the filter and into the motor, thus grinding the insulation off the windings. (Worst one was Stinger vac. Dust hit the motor & exploded from the carbon brush sparks. Exciting, but stinky!)
Currently I have a Vacmaster VF409 and it filters really well. The incoming air & dirt goes into a bag. If any gets through the bag wall it has to go through a cloth filter, then a cartridge filter, then a HEPA filter. Fine Dust filters are available, as are HEPA bags. The air path is so that even if dust escapes, nothing passes the motor. (Before using it on sanding dust, I tried it on talc. Nothing came out the exhaust air.)
Plan B-
(Especially helpful if you think asbestos or lead might be present)
When vacuuming the floor, rig up a water bucket, similar to the ones used for drywall sanding. (Like Magna Sand-And-Kleen) Most of the dust gets trapped in the water before it goes to the vacuum. It's not OSHA for asbestos or lead, but better than nothing.
Being a DIY forum, here's a DIY example I found on line: https://www.instructables.com/id/Drywall-Sanding-Dust-CollectorSeperator/
I hope this helps & your project goes smoothly and enjoyably!
Paul
I have lots of experience opening walls in old Detroit commercial buildings to install conduit. I'd always hang around when the plasterers or drywall installers worked so I could learn. (And pester them to death with my questions...)
It sure is an art to make beautiful drywall & plaster!
I figured that plaster and lathe wood add significant strength to a structure but my engineer father in law didn't think it would be so significant.
I'd have to think the lath, plus the resultant keys, would have a whole lot more stability than drywall, screws and mud. As I remember, plaster itself is stronger than even setting mud. (Ask my sandpaper)
A substitute for the solidity & durability of plaster, which I learned long ago from a plasterer, was to put cement backer board on the studs, then thin drywall over it. (Using something like Wonderboard for the backer- not Hardie board) He would use setting mud to adhere the drywall to the backer board.
You end up with a very solid wall with much of the sound deadening properties of plaster & lath.
If you do remove the plaster, be sure to work safely and be certain that your vacuum can filter the dust very well. (And mask on!)
I've wrecked a lot of vacuums where the dust gets through the filter and into the motor, thus grinding the insulation off the windings. (Worst one was Stinger vac. Dust hit the motor & exploded from the carbon brush sparks. Exciting, but stinky!)
Currently I have a Vacmaster VF409 and it filters really well. The incoming air & dirt goes into a bag. If any gets through the bag wall it has to go through a cloth filter, then a cartridge filter, then a HEPA filter. Fine Dust filters are available, as are HEPA bags. The air path is so that even if dust escapes, nothing passes the motor. (Before using it on sanding dust, I tried it on talc. Nothing came out the exhaust air.)
Plan B-
(Especially helpful if you think asbestos or lead might be present)
When vacuuming the floor, rig up a water bucket, similar to the ones used for drywall sanding. (Like Magna Sand-And-Kleen) Most of the dust gets trapped in the water before it goes to the vacuum. It's not OSHA for asbestos or lead, but better than nothing.
Being a DIY forum, here's a DIY example I found on line: https://www.instructables.com/id/Drywall-Sanding-Dust-CollectorSeperator/
I hope this helps & your project goes smoothly and enjoyably!
Paul
