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Can you tell me where to get a chrome offset tailpiece?

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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I need an offset tailpiece to solve a trap fitting problem. Has anyone seen one that looks similar to the one in the picture I've posted here.

My plumber roughed in the drain too close to the sink drain and also angled it *towards* the drain so I can't even reverse the J bend to get more distance. All the plumbing will be visible as the sink is a wall mount.

Any suggestions or links will be appreciated,
Thanks
 

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Plumb or Die!
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Never seen one of those, but ADA compliant wall hung lavs require an offset tailpiece that uses 2 90 degree bends that will fix your problem, provided you don't use a pop up drain plug assembly.
 

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fabrk8r
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Most plumbing supply houses have chrome double offsets couplings but they have radius bends rather than mitered.

Keep in mind the ones I am talking about are couplings and not actual tailpieces, so you will have to have do some adapting. I've had to cut tailpieces down in order to use them in most cases as they are about 10" long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you. Are there any rules of thumb about stub out position?

So I don't have to be the fix it guy next time, what is the geometry advice you would teach a new plumber about positioning the ABS stub out for a wall lav drain that will be 6" from the wall? I want to know what a professional would tell an apprentice.


I just soldered that mitered tailpiece together to see if it would work. It might, but I've ordered a double right angle ADA drain that also my just work and I can shorten the horizontal piece to help it. But I'll need to re-thread the brass tube if I need to shorten it...
 

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I would go about 2.5" to either side of center. This will allow me to turn the trap sideways and still have enough to attach to the trap arm
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Eplumber, I think I have it figured out...

I would go about 2.5" to either side of center. This will allow me to turn the trap sideways and still have enough to attach to the trap arm

I would add for a close-to-wall drain:

If the sink needs a centered stub out and trap: The marvel nut can be no closer to the drain line than the length of the J bend plus the deformed section of the bend on the waste arm. You may need to expose only the threads of the marvel.

If you want an aligned trap and If the stub out can't be centered: put it to the side with the least interfering objects and align it *exactly* with the drain line farther away than the length of the J bend plus the deformed section of the bend on the waste arm.

If you want the stubout close to the drain and the trap unaligned: Put the stubout to the side *no farther* than the length of the J bend when the stubout is perpendicular to the wall, or angle the stubout toward the drain but at least 1" off the drain line so the trap may be installed reversed. Plan for the marvel threads to be away from the drain line the length of the J bend plus the deformed section of the bend on the waste arm *with* the trap bent.

Let me know if that seems right, I may need to send a diagram...
 

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I just soldered that mitered tailpiece together to see if it would work. It might, but I've ordered a double right angle ADA drain that also my just work and I can shorten the horizontal piece to help it. But I'll need to re-thread the brass tube if I need to shorten it...
How are you going to re-thread the brass? Are you referring to the end that threads into the drain?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was Imagining I'd need to find a 1-1/4" 28TPI die, or pay a guy with a machine shop to do it.
 
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