[Millertyme]

Looking to see best way to do this. I was going to use 1-1/2 rigid foam tight to concrete walls then frame 2x4 walls tight to foam with batt insulation. I was thinking however this might be overkill with the insulation. I also thought of using just 2 layers of strapping in a crossing fashion tight to the foam and fastened into to concrete and avoid using studs all together. It will save money on insulation as the foam has the required r value as is. What are you thoughts.

 

[Colbyt]

Our local code is R-13 and 2x4 stud walls. I can't image MA code being any less on the R.

 

[Mingledtrash]

Just throw you a tip. hold your sole plate about 1 in away from your wall or foam on the bottom because concrete walls are not always level. here is a picture of a good way to level basement walls https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VbeDyNDPf_U/maxresdefault.jpg notice the blocks nailed to the concrete wall then level wall nail it to the blocks. not sure what you mean about not using studs maybe you could clarify that.

 

[Millertyme]

In this photo he is using horizontal strapping then strapping over that with vertical strapping. It is fastened through the strapping and foam into concrete. Then drywall is hung to strapping. No need for studs and batt insulation. Can use shallow electrical boxes. But after looking into it little more it will only give me r-10 if I use 2" foam. I need r-13 so I guess I'll just use a 1" foam then a regular studded wall with batts.

 

[Mingledtrash]

your better off framing a wall anyway because like said before concrete walls can be all over the place as far as plumb, and straight. anyway goodluck

 

[Bud9051]

Hi Millertyme,
Double check your current local codes. The 2009 IECC, https://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/
shows R-10 for continuous, but the 2012 seems to have increased to R-15. Couldn't find a similar reference and your local code authority is the one who determines what is in effect.

Be sure all moisture issues have been resolved as once the rigid is up you don't want to be going back in there.

Pressure treated wood at the bottom and appropriate fasteners.

Here is a good reference for what you are proposing:
http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy13osti/55802.pdf

Bud

https://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/