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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A few months ago I bought a Mr Heater Big Buddy propane heater, along with a new tank of propane, a filter, and a hose. I set up everything per the manual, but every time I run the heater, my garage is full of what has to be toxic fumes within minutes. I made sure to keep my propane tank outside, so it can't be that. What would cause my heater to emit such strong fumes? I reached out to Mr Heater a few months ago for help and never received a response, so I'm hoping you guys might have some ideas. Surely this isn't normal operation for a propane heater
 

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Using an unvented heater inside is generally a bad idea unless temporary, even in a garage - do you crack open a door or if applicable, a window when using it?

Sounds like it's defective though and not burning properly.

Have you tried running it for an hour on high outside to burn off stuff (oil?) left over from the manufacturing process?

What do the fumes smell like?
 

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I bought this because it was a top rated unit for garages, and can be used indoors, so they claim. I've ran it for an hour or two but with no doors open and my garage isn't vented. I can try to run it outside for another few hours just to be sure the unit has burned off any oils from manufacturing.

I honestly can't really describe the smell from memory, I'll run it tomorrow and give a better description. But it gives me an awful headache which makes me think CO.
 

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The headache is a giveaway; it's not burning properly - not just left over oil or something burning off.

Monoxide has no smell but other products of incomplete combustion do.

Do other propane appliances work properly on the same tank/regulator?

Can you warranty or return this unit? Really sounds defective.

CO production should be low under normal circumstances.

Un-vented heaters should not be legal for use indoors but they are - a garage is kind of a grey area.

If you insist on using an unvented heater in the garage, ventilate and get a co alarm with a digital display. (for better protection, get a low level co monitor)

The higher the BTUs, the more dangerous in a confined space.
 

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Nowhere on the Buddy Heater website does it say to use indoors. It says comfortable outdoor safe heat. That said most buddy heaters used around here are for portable ice fishing shacks which leak air so they are well vented.
It should never be used in a garage without it being vented.


Retired guy from Southern Manitoba, Canada.
 

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"With the Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS) and accidental tip-over safety shut-off, you can be sure that you will enjoy years of comfortable indoor safe heat."



https://www.mrheater.com/big-buddy-portable-heater-2933.html


It's a bad sign that they won't call you back. I considered this heater, carefully, for camping, last year but it just made me uncomfortable.


I've seen workers with CO poisoning that have no idea they are poisoned. They have a headache & often feel dingy. They also have a characteristic blotchy red & white coloring with serious CO. Even the City Building Dept. expert had it!


There is a heater with a foil tubing for outside venting. But, just an electric radiator heater gives good heat, economically.


Send it back!
 

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A few months ago I bought a Mr Heater Big Buddy propane heater, along with a new tank of propane, a filter, and a hose. I set up everything per the manual, but every time I run the heater, my garage is full of what has to be toxic fumes within minutes. I made sure to keep my propane tank outside, so it can't be that. What would cause my heater to emit such strong fumes? I reached out to Mr Heater a few months ago for help and never received a response, so I'm hoping you guys might have some ideas. Surely this isn't normal operation for a propane heater
The folks dealing with china for business don't communicate as we once were accustomed to. I wouldn't recommend a non-vented gas heater to my worst enemy, no matter how many safety features it has. Pitch it in the most convenient dumpster ( china won't take junk back to pitch in theirs ) and consider yourself fortunate for paying a couple hundred plus shipping for a well learned lesson and still be alive.
 

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I would not use unvented combustion in an enclosed space. No matter how clean it is supposed to be, you are still breathing the products of combustion. Most unvented appliances require ventilation. Using open combustion in a garage has its hazards, too.
It will emit enough moisture to rust things stored in your garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If I can get this thing working right, and that's a big if, whats the best permanent ventilation method you guys would recommend for an attached garage? If I cant get it working right, its going back to Lowes. And yeah, I am disappointed that I got no response from Mr Heater, especially with an issue like this. I had my eye on this heater for a while prior to buying (a year or two actually) and I'm disappointed that its not living up to the hype.
 

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An electric heater is a good choice for occasional heat. For full time heat I would install a Reznor power vent hanging NG or propane heater. Some models are listed for residential use, making them acceptable for use in an attached garage. I like them because the flame is away from heavier than air combustible vapors, they are out of harm’s way, and they use zero floor space.
 

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An electric heater is a good choice for occasional heat. For full time heat I would install a Reznor power vent hanging NG or propane heater. Some models are listed for residential use, making them acceptable for use in an attached garage. I like them because the flame is away from heavier than air combustible vapors, they are out of harm’s way, and they use zero floor space.
We had shops at work with hanging heaters. To keep warm we had to work elevated on tall ladders. Really not very handy.:vs_laugh:
 

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the us has loose regulations.

i would only use an un vented heater in a garage with the door partially up for short periods of time.
 

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The byproducts of complete combustion for propane (C3H8) are carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O) vapor, neither of which have any odor. Incomplete combustion will permit the production of some carbon monoxide (CO - similarly odorless) and may even permit propane to accumulate in the air, although you should immediately be able to smell the additive they use (ethyl mercaptan).

CO2 will give you a headache, make you breath faster and increase heart rate. CO has similar acute effects, as well as dizziness, nausea, confusion, blurred vision and can ultimately be lethal. Not something to screw around with!

It took about 5 years for our ventless gas log set to stop producing an unpleasant odor (from the equipment, not the propane). I suspect you are experiencing something similar. In any event, I'd get it checked out by your local propane supplier. In the meanwhile, crack the window and door on the garage while you're working in there.
 

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We had shops at work with hanging heaters. To keep warm we had to work elevated on tall ladders. Really not very handy.:vs_laugh:
I have 2 buildings with 14 foot high ceilings. Being comfortable is not a problem with Reznor heaters. Perhaps your heaters had underperforming fans or the heaters were oversized so they only ran on short cycles, not mixing air well. Mine are fine with no ceiling fans running but I usually run a couple because the air movement helps to dry the floor faster if I pull in a snow covered vehicle.
 

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If I can get this thing working right, and that's a big if, whats the best permanent ventilation method you guys would recommend for an attached garage?
If you must use it i suggest opening the overhead door an inch or two while on the opposite side of the area open the top of a double hung window if one is available. The idea is for cold air to enter at the bottom of the over head door opening and with the upper portion of any opening on the opposite side of the garage there will be a natural air flow without any other equipment like fans etc.. Colder heavier air entering low forcing warmer lighter air containing possible CO out the above opening. i would even go as far as placing the heater at the upper air opening end of the area if possible.
 
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