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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long time lurker on these forums, first time posting.

I'm building an elevated playhouse for my kids.

Here's my 'plans' from the spouse:

Inspired by these from Pinterest, especially the one on the lower left.

Got the deck up and in place this weekend:




Not sure why I need to put up walls, the kids seem to like their deck / stage:

Next steps:
  1. Stain using an eco friendly stain from Timber Pro -- going to spray it on I think
  2. Walls next post about how I cut the circles
  3. Roof future post on that -- 4' in back 5' in front, not exactly sure how to hang joists but should be easy
  4. Slide planning to DIY a roller slide
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Walls next post about how I cut the circles
My big concern is getting the circles right. Here's an example:

On the front I'm going to do one circle -- 4' diameter.

1. Tool? Jigsaw won't be precise enough, so I think I'm going to use a router with a spiral bit.
- I'll cut the circle out when the wall is on the ground
- I'm going to be cutting through siding (redwood) -- any tips for getting an accurate cut?
- I'll make a circle jig -- something like this:

Alternatively I can buy a circle jig, but they're a bit expensive.
Think I'll be able to get an accurate circle with a DIY jig? Obviously practicing on some plywood first.

2. Frame I think I need to do a square frame around the circle. Haven't done one but seems reasonably straight forward.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Honestly i think a jigsaw would be just fine, router would be gruling depending on how thick the lumber is that you are cutting. Take a nail and some string and draw your circles then jigsaw away. Im sure kids and wife will love it! After you cut your holes a little sanding goes a long way. Good luck!
 

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I have cut a lot of holes, large and small, using a router and a jig similar to what you show. It works fine, but each pass is limited in depth, I usually only go about 1/4 to 3/8 inch per pass. A good upcut spiral bit, as you note, works nicely. Much better results than a jigsaw, and your children may be finnicky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Honestly i think a jigsaw would be just fine, router would be gruling depending on how thick the lumber is that you are cutting. Take a nail and some string and draw your circles then jigsaw away. Im sure kids and wife will love it! After you cut your holes a little sanding goes a long way. Good luck!
Thanks Fullswing! The siding is 5/4 redwood, so not terribly thick. I'll probably test out on one of the side walls before I tackle the big one. If jigsaw works definitely seems easier. And yeah, either way the kids will love it. Wife wants a certain left of finish (especially since I was the one who found the circle idea, and told her no problem).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have cut a lot of holes, large and small, using a router and a jig similar to what you show. It works fine, but each pass is limited in depth, I usually only go about 1/4 to 3/8 inch per pass. A good upcut spiral bit, as you note, works nicely. Much better results than a jigsaw, and your children may be finnicky.
Thanks Daniel. Appreciate the comment -- I wouldn't have thought about the X per pass issue -- I haven't used a router in a long time, and imagined the spiral bit would cut through the entire 5/4 thickness (e.g., first plunge is your pilot hole, then rip around the entire circle).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Router would definitely make a nicer hole I guess it just depends on the time and patience you have to make it happen. I did this window with a jig saw and thank god but the wife and kid still love me lol!
That looks nice -- did you do the circle frame with a jigsaw as well or just the interior cutout? I was thinking if I use a jigsaw on the cutout, I could then frame it with plywood circles I make with a jigsaw down the road. Kind of like this:

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stained deck this morning. My wife is into eco friendly / non toxic stuff, but this stain was a lot easier than the last deck I did with eco friendly stuff.

Stain from Timber Pro Coatings, which recommends using a sprayer.

Did a bit of sprayer research and ended up with a Wagner from Amazon (tip: most of the tools I've bought I've gotten from the Amazon Warehouse at a discount -- and none have been used -- just returned).

I've never used a paint sprayer...read the directions, watched some videos, read the Amazon reviews -- and it was easy enough. I gather that because stains are thin it's a lot easier than latex etc paint.

Backbrushed with a http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RCRS9I/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464111949&sr=sr-1&keywords=car+brush (again from Amazon). The Timber Pro application guide recommended using a car brush to back brush, and it worked well. Although I can't compare with other backbrushing methods.

Not entirely sure if I put on too thick a coat, or too thin. I like the areas where the grain shows through, which presumably were the areas where I didn't lay it on as thick.




And a time lapse which cut out a little early. One of my boys got in the mix, which was hard for the perfectionist in me but he had a smile on his face, so well worth the extra time it took

Next Steps
  1. Second coat of stain
  2. Walls

Thanks everyone for the comments. I've long gotten value out of these forums, and hope this post helps people undertaking similar projects in the future.
 

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Looking really good, makes me wish I had bothered to stain my tree house!

Since you are not digging the support posts into the ground, did you consider sway bracing for the uprights? It's cheap, easy and really good insurance against a horde of hyperactive children climbing / running / swinging on things which causes structural racking.

I incorporated them on my tree house and they definitely make a difference to the stability of the platform, and I dug the uprights into the ground too.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/treehouse-204243/

I'm sure a structural engineer may want to weigh in on whether they think they're necessary or not in this application.

Cheers
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looking really good, makes me wish I had bothered to stain my tree house!

Since you are not digging the support posts into the ground, did you consider sway bracing for the uprights? It's cheap, easy and really good insurance against a horde of hyperactive children climbing / running / swinging on things which causes structural racking.

I incorporated them on my tree house and they definitely make a difference to the stability of the platform, and I dug the uprights into the ground too.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/treehouse-204243/

I'm sure a structural engineer may want to weigh in on whether they think they're necessary or not in this application.

Cheers
Chris

Ah, yes considered and meant to do but forgot until you mentioned it. So thanks! Great treehouse you built. I wanted to do a door but my 'client' said it didn't fit her vision. :)



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Looking really good, makes me wish I had bothered to stain my tree house!

Since you are not digging the support posts into the ground, did you consider sway bracing for the uprights? It's cheap, easy and really good insurance against a horde of hyperactive children climbing / running / swinging on things which causes structural racking.

I incorporated them on my tree house and they definitely make a difference to the stability of the platform, and I dug the uprights into the ground too.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/treehouse-204243/

I'm sure a structural engineer may want to weigh in on whether they think they're necessary or not in this application.

Cheers
Chris
Good point on the sway bracing......better safe than sorry with the kids. A few kickers go a long way!
 
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