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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We had a new roof put on yesterday. Nightmare from start to finish. Now we have a big problem with our ridge vent. When they installed it they busted all the plywood along the whole ridge vent. Now the ridge vent is only attached to the felt. When you look in the attic you see a whole lot of light and broken pieces of plywood lying about, where it hasn't broken off completely it is cracked and separated. Rain on the way and the roofer hasn't called back. Also isn't the top of the plastic ridge vent supposed to be covered completely covered with shingle material. How far from the edge of the roof is the ridge vent supposed to be set in.
Thanks
Magic
 

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As you probably suspect, your roofer screwed up in a major way. First things first, if you can safely put a tarp over the ridge and secure it to the roof, this will prevent water damage when it rains. If the pitch of the roof is so great that you can't walk on the roof or if you feel unconfortable with heights, do not risk your life. You might be able to hire a qualified person to do this assuming the fellow who did the work continues to be unavailable.
Your roofer removed too much off the ridge. Only a strip 3/4 of an inch on both sides of the ridge need be removed. You should not be able to see the sky when looking up at the ridge from the interior of the house.
There should be shingles on top of the ridge vent material wheter it is the roll type of ridgid vinyl type.
Can this be fixed? Sure. It is the responsibility of your roofer to repair this mess. If you can't reach hime after a diligent attempt, I would put a stop on the last check I gave him. Hopefully you did not pay cash.
My guess is that your roofer is a jack of all trades- a man with a few tools and a need to make a few bucks. Calling him a roofer is more compliment that he deserves.
 

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Were they "roofers" or contractors/handy men?

Were they the low bidder?

Food for thought for anyone reading this thread since that's what you should expect to get from either.


The ridge vent is probably supposed to be completely covered from end to end. For cosmetic purposes we extend our ridge vent entirely from edge to edge, but we don't cut the entire length. We stay 1 1/2' away from exterior walls, chimneys, valleys etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did my research

They were licensed bonded and insured. They are certified with GAF/ELK. So now because of not following installation guidelines we have no warranty. They refuse to return calls. Talked with GAF they called and told him to call, but still no call. Looking for new roofer to repair. Waiting for inspecter from county to get here to see what else is wrong.
 

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1. When they installed it they busted all the plywood along the whole ridge vent. Now the ridge vent is only attached to the felt.

2. When you look in the attic you see a whole lot of light and broken pieces of plywood lying about, where it hasn't broken off completely it is cracked and separated. Rain on the way and the roofer hasn't called back.

3. Also isn't the top of the plastic ridge vent supposed to be covered completely covered with shingle material. How far from the edge of the roof is the ridge vent supposed to be set in.
1. Did they "Bust"the plywood off, or did they cut it with a circular saw and just not do a good job of removing the scrap pieces which may be left hanging in the interior of the attic by the ridge vent slot cut out?

2. Depending on the exact type and brand of ridge vent that they installed, you may be able to see daylight from the inside, through the interior gauze filter in the center of the ridge vent.

3. Yes, unless they used the metal ridge vents, then the others are all "Shingle Over" style and should be covered with shingle ridge caps.

Is the entire top surface exposed, or just the extension that flairs out on the side edges?

If they used the Cobra Snow Country Ridge Vent, manufactured by GAF/ELK, then that model contains a trough that protrudes from the ridge vent, which is as an exterior wind deflecting baffle and it should remain exposed.

Can you possibly take some photos and upload them to the forum and post them?

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
pics

They needed to replace the 4 inch strip of plywood with a wider strip.
Pretty much know what to do about it have another roofer coming to fix
Happy with the GAF shingles not to happy with GAF Corporation
 

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I also would like to see some exterior photos, where you were wondering about the vent getting covered by shingles.

That workmanship is just Crap.

Also, the original builders carpenter should not have left off with just a 2" strip of plywood at the peak of the roof.


I would have advised you that the remnant of plywood was too narrao and that we needed to cut more off of the original full shhet next downnin line and then install a partial sheet.

I don't know if the codes specify how wide a sheet can be, but I live by the theory that it should be at least 2 feet wide for structural stability in most instances.

Since the original carpenter wound up with thet skinny piece, the roofer installing the ridge vent never pulled out his saw. They just wacked the strip with their hammer and left it dangling.

Yes, for sure you will have problems with that remaining in place with the nails only piercing the shingles or the felt paper.

Whatever it costs you to have the repairs done correctly should be billed to the original contractor, (Within Reason Of Course), and if he dous not honor the required payment, I would suggest small claims court. You Will Win. I guarantee it. But, only after you send a certified letter informing the original contractor of the steps you have taken to attempt to mediate this neglect and that you have not received any satisfactory answer from them on the proper course of action.

Additionally, I would see if the GAF Rep who backed up that roofer and their entire corporation could be brought in, for credentialling such shoddy workmanship.

Ed
 

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I run into that pretty frequently in one area that I service. Plus, the plywood was all 3/8" only to boot. Talk about feeling like you are going to fall through the decking.....Geez!!!

By the way, when I originally stated that the Contractor screwed up, what I should more properly have stated, was that the installers he had working for him botched up the job.

The Contractor may not have ever heard about the problem at all, until after the job was done and you tried contacting him.

Did he ever come out in the first place to take a look at the problem?

He may have just thought you did not know what you were talking about.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know

The original builder took a lot of short cuts. We run into that every time we do a remodel project. I know the contractor thought I didn't know what I was talking about. When his guy came and looked and told him what had happened and it needed to be fixed, he started ignoring us. Territory rep from GAF called him. Didn't do any good. Have another roofer coming to fix. Question is are they any better. The crews supervisor was on the roof when they tore off he should have known to cut back the plywood and replace the top section with a wider strip. It was in our contract that it would cost extra for replacing plywood. We understood that. In fact because the last roofer 10 years ago did a bad job and left out flashing etc. we were expecting to replace more plwood than they did. Am working out a complaint against GAF still trying to find the appropriate agency to send it to. Here's pics from the top my husband was mistaken on what the left showing but I went out to look a bit ago because we have some wind and the shingle pieces are already starting to pop.
 

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BTW, why is anyone using hand nails anymore? An air nailer would have never done this.
Because a roofing nail gun only uses up to a 1 3/4" nail and a "Minimum" of a 2" roofing nail is required, but that would be with a thin 3-tab shingle. We use either 2 1/2" or 3" hand roofing nails for the ridge vent and also the ridge cap shingles.

Those guys installing those long hand nails knew when they were nailing them inm that they were not hitting anything solid.

Also, the shingle ridge cap is acceptable the way it is installed.

The side areas that are exposed are supposed to be like the, which is the External Baffle to deflect the wind.

They could use a little brown caulking sealant on the exposed nails though, but that doesn't matter since it all is coming off anyways now, in adition to a few rows of shingles to replace the wood with a stronger wider section on both sides of the ridge line.

Also, I did not really like what I saw on the rear side of the masonry chimney.

Could you take a couple of better photos of the front and the sides and the rear?

Ed
 

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Since I am only able to see a small portion of the rear side, and it is not the focal point of the photo, it is hard to tell for sure, but.....

It looks like there is only roofing cement, (tar), troweled on top of what may have been an original sheet metal counter-flashing on the rear side.

It also "May" be that an old piece of sheet metal was removed because it "Seems" to look like one of the horizontal mortar joints that runs across the width is wider than the others, which "May" indicate that there used to be a sheet metal counter-flashing inserted into that cut out mortar joint, which would be called a Reglet Joint.

If so, how are the sheet metal flashings on the other 3 sides?

I didn't want to pre-judge and start you off and panic you, until I saw it more clearly though, so let's wait and see what the photos show.

If he doesn't have time tonight before it gets dark, just take the pictures tomorrow and make sure, if he walks on the roof, to not slip on the many loose granules that will be there after a brand new installation.

Ed
 

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Another time, when using the "low Omni roll" that a situation could be avoided. 1 3/4" coil nails come with it. Cobra uses the same.

A wider piece of wood may cover too much of the opening for venting. I would recommend fixing the wood using OSB instead of that cheapo plywood, and then get a good product that uses coil air nails to fasten the new ridge.

I don't see any other way to fix the problem if hand nails are going back into a thin piece of plywood. It will bounce and eventually break just like you have now.

A "cheater" method may work...........have them cheat the ridge to one side. Replace the wood all the way to the peak and fasten it to the stringer at the peak. On the other side, leave the small piece completely out and nail into the lower sheet. It isn't totally correct, but it will work and you would never notice or have a problem. I would still recommend a ridge vent that can be installed using coil nails.
 

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You are not understanding the plywood repair as prescribed.

Also, I looked up the Omni Ridge Vent Lo Profile one you mentioned. I like their regular 4 foot sectional versions, but that Lo Profile only offers 11 square inches of NFVA per foot, when most brands, like the Cobra Snow Country or Advanced and also the Shingle Vent II, each offer 18 square inches per lineal foot.

That is way too much of a sacrifice on ventilation specifications for most homes I have run the calculations on to be satisfied with, but you were correct about it being gun nailable.

Ed




LOR9-4 Shingle Over Ridge Vent


Optional Pneumatic Nail Gun or

Hammer Installed.
Internal Aerodynamic Curved Baffles.
External Perpendicular Omni Baffles.
Weatherproof Underlapping Joint.

Four Drain Holes per Foot per Side.


11" Net Free Area per Linear Foot.



External Venturi Baffle.Adjust from 3/12 to 16/12 roof pitches.

Nail Holes Marked Every 6 inches - Supported Every Foot.
Molded Nail Lines.
Molded Centerline for Fast and
Easy Alignment.
Alignment Tabs.
External Water Shield.
Slot Width Guide Lines.
Patented Molded-in Fanfolded Endplug Fits.

30-year transferable warranty.This is an exhaust louver.
 

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I reread your post Ed, and understand what you are talking about. It would just require a few more rows of shingles to be taken off, but would work well. :thumbsup:


Never had a ventilation problem with the omni roll. Have used it on many houses including my own.

GAF claims over 14 NFVA on their regular Cobra vent, but I have seen where it actually is one of the worst ventilators in comparison tests. The problem with the ventilators that have the webbing in them is that they get dirty and lose their claimed performance. Moisture collects and dirt sticks. Good idea, just is slowly being proven not to work in the long run.
 

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I agree with personal observations about the Cobra Roll Vent, the one that looks like a brillo pad or furnace filter type material.

I see those clogged with algae growth, showing that no air flow is warding off the growth and that moisture remains inside the structure.

I have not seen that problem on Shingle Vent II on ridge vents I installed over 10-12 years ago that I have checked up on though.

I am glad that you reread the plywood repair so that you knew what I was talking about. :thumbsup:

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Fixed

Well after 20 calls to GAF putting a stop payment on his check and sending a certified letter. The owner came out and met with the inspector and then came the next day and repaired everything. Why he changed his mind I don't know but it is fixed and I am happy and it was fixed before our big storm this weekend. No leaks....
Thanks for all your input.
 
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