Priming walls

Well, good luck finding any problem areas without primer on the walls. Since drywall is gray and joint compound is white, it can be really, really difficult to see any imperfections. It's best to apply the primer and THEN look for problem areas, etc. Repair those and then sand, wipe off dust, and apply primer to those spots you fixed. What I like to do after the primer dries is mark areas that need fixed by circling those spots with a pencil or attaching some blue painter's tape next to the spots so you remember where they are.

use a high quality PVA primer SW make a great one. that way your drywall does not fuzz up

If you can see the imperfections before the primer by all means fix them first. Then after the primer check again. sand, spot prime repairs. check again. Your painter is correct really only if you are using a high build primer. A regular primer is not thick enough to fix any imperfections.

Nailbags said:

use a high quality PVA primer SW make a great one. that way your drywall does not fuzz up

Click to expand...

you keep recommending this,why?:huh:

Prime the walls

Try to get the walls the best you can before a prime. The light would be overkill but look at the walls from all angles. The pinholes are called pocks. These are caused from drywall dust getting balled up in the mix and then sanded down to. You really just waist your time looking for the mistakes when they will be easy to find and easy to fix after the prime.

Nice Pictures

OK so Im assuming from the lines that those are pretty close up. Unless there was an eighty grit sandpaper used...

Either way. It needs a skim coat on some of that or else there will be too much to fix later.

I wrote an article on patching that could really help you. Its more for patching holes but it will tell what to use to fix what you cant get to with the skim.

No primer on Earth will help fill/smooth those pits/scrapes!!!

Yep....do further skimming & light sanding.
* PVA-class primers are adequate. That's all the further I'll go with that.
* Better choices are primers like C2-One, Zinsser123, or Gripper.
* Applied correctly...meaning NOT PUSHED TOO THIN...this class of primers seals a wall MUCH better than a PVA film.
* IF you're fussy, consider TWO coats of 123/similiar. Let dry a day, then LIGHTLY scuff-sand with a 220-ish sanding-screen, and remove ALL dust.
* Priming DOES slightly "fuzz" the paper. If you scuff-sand HALF a primed wall, & not the other...you WILL see a difference.

Faron

George, unless those pics were shot through an electron microscope, you're sandpaper is way too heavy. 220, or 180 at the most, is all the grit you need. You're fingers are rough enough to sand compound. Don't feel bad, I've had pros come on my jobs that I've caught using way too heavy grit for sanding, that's when it gets fun.

Wow, that's some serious sandpaper damage.

Primers and Skimming

Yup yup and yup. Interesting fact that will help...
I use a pva primer from PPG Speedhide line that doubles as a surfacer. Without getting into the hem haw of it. Basically you can use a drywall knife to putty in some of that primer into those lines. It wont work magic and fill in pits but it will fix those lines. Plus then its already primed. Only do this with a PVA so it will sand down knife marks made with paint. But a thicker Acrylic primer like Gripper or another +$$$ primer with a heavy nap like 1/2+ might do alot for you in this situation. Is it going to be flat, egshell or higher?


Thought for the day... Im sure he could do without microscope jokes.:whistling2:

JSheridan

JSheridan
Your throwing 404 errors on three out of 4 links in your signature line.

Thanks Grant, I fixed the links. I only found two broken ones on outside web sites.
Hey, microscope jokes :thumbup:, it's a rough crowd. I went to the same high school as Rodney Dangerfield, after we sacked the quarterback, we went after his family. :laughing:

I might suggest a skim with the new ultra lite mud. Thin just a little and pull tight. Easy to work with and easy to sand with 220 screen not paper.

jsheridan said:

Thanks Grant, I fixed the links. I only found two broken ones on outside web sites.
Hey, microscope jokes :thumbup:, it's a rough crowd. I went to the same high school as Rodney Dangerfield, after we sacked the quarterback, we went after his family. :laughing:

Click to expand...

I looked again. It must have been only two not three links cause Id already seen two of them.
I was afraid that the microscope joke might have hurt his feelins. It would have hurt mine if I was looking at that drywall! You devil:furious:

Grants Painting said:

Try to get the walls the best you can before a prime. The light would be overkill but look at the walls from all angles. The pinholes are called pocks. These are caused from drywall dust getting balled up in the mix and then sanded down to. You really just waist your time looking for the mistakes when they will be easy to find and easy to fix after the prime.

Click to expand...

Really? If it's caused by dust, how do you account for "pocks" on the first coat of mud? There is no dust at that stage to "get balled up in the mix". How about air bubbles? Do you sand between coats of spackle?

The mudding was done by someone else.
The pics were taken more than 12 inches away.
I can see all the drywall problems without
without using a scope.
Haven't used a scope in ages, but remember it
was used along for dissecting a frog
and was really pretty gross in school.
Going to the store to get 220 grit and 320 and work some magic.

1/2 nap purdy whiteDove 4.89sw