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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

What primer is the best and affordable for the new drywall painting?
I am thinking of choosing alcohol based BIN Zinnser Stain Blocker for my garage project (1000sqft). I may need 3 gallons of it for 1 coat? Is it enough?

If I choose waterbased primer & sealer (which is cheaper than BIN), I think I might need 2 coats for priming and 5 gallons would be enough.

any expert opinion?

Thanks
zhtway
 

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I hope that is a good primer. I used it too.
 

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I make love to my walls
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As a professional drywall contractor I will tell you that I always prime my houses with sherwin Williams master hide flat. I spray two coats on the ceiling and it's finished walls get one coat. It's more pricey than the home cheapo brands but it's well worth it. I also sand my walls after with 220
 

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I make love to my walls
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My opinion on the glidden pva is that it's crap. I've used it twice in a pinch on a small addition and a basement. It's way too watery and not enough pigment in it. You will end up spending more money putting extra coats on. Plus is doesn't have the high hiding additive in it that sherwin Williams master hide flat does. With sw I can put one thick coat on purple MR board and it's ready for paint. You'll need at least 4 coats with that gladden crap. No professional painter would ever buy their paint from hd. It's either sherwin or Benjamin moore.
 

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The Glidden PVA primer isn't really designed to be a hiding primer only a sealing primer. The pigment in Glidden PVA is very low which is why it is a lower price. It is thinner to make it easier for spraying. I personally don't use it much but can see the value depending on the project.
 

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The PVA primer is indeed a sealing primer, and needs another 'hide' primer over it. I've found that it makes for MUCH smoother final surfaces though. I'm working with grade 4 surfaces in my house (no texturing) and eggshell or semi-gloss paint, and without using the PVA primers, the "New Low-VOC" stuff shows joint areas and anywhere there's compound through to the final coat. The way the very knowledgeable paint store employee explained it -- I go to a paint shop that mostly serves pros and sells Glidden and Benjamin Moore paints -- the low VOC reformulations doesn't dry as quickly or evenly on new drywall when rolled on, so you should use a PVA primer first, because the PVA primer will flash dry and provide a surface with even adhesion and drying properties for when you apply your primer and finish coats.

I've just painted an entire 600 sq ft living room with 16' vaulted ceilings ... 1 coat PVA primer, 1 coat benny moore fresh start, 1 coat benny moore Aquavelvet eggshell. Looks MUCH better than the kitchen that I'd done the "traditional" way, which was to just roll on a primer and roll on a finish coat.
 

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superspeck said:
The PVA primer is indeed a sealing primer, and needs another 'hide' primer over it. I've found that it makes for MUCH smoother final surfaces though. I'm working with grade 4 surfaces in my house (no texturing) and eggshell or semi-gloss paint, and without using the PVA primers, the "New Low-VOC" stuff shows joint areas and anywhere there's compound through to the final coat. The way the very knowledgeable paint store employee explained it -- I go to a paint shop that mostly serves pros and sells Glidden and Benjamin Moore paints -- the low VOC reformulations doesn't dry as quickly or evenly on new drywall when rolled on, so you should use a PVA primer first, because the PVA primer will flash dry and provide a surface with even adhesion and drying properties for when you apply your primer and finish coats.

I've just painted an entire 600 sq ft living room with 16' vaulted ceilings ... 1 coat PVA primer, 1 coat benny moore fresh start, 1 coat benny moore Aquavelvet eggshell. Looks MUCH better than the kitchen that I'd done the "traditional" way, which was to just roll on a primer and roll on a finish coat.
This was good advice and accurate.
 

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Painting Company, NY
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As a professional drywall contractor I will tell you that I always prime my houses with sherwin Williams master hide flat. I spray two coats on the ceiling and it's finished walls get one coat. It's more pricey than the home cheapo brands but it's well worth it. I also sand my walls after with 220
Yes, Master hide is actually pretty good stuff. Spray one coat on walls, backroll, spray 2 coats on ceilings, backroll and then roll and brush walls using 18s.
 

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My opinion on the glidden pva is that it's crap. I've used it twice in a pinch on a small addition and a basement. It's way too watery and not enough pigment in it. You will end up spending more money putting extra coats on. Plus is doesn't have the high hiding additive in it that sherwin Williams master hide flat does. With sw I can put one thick coat on purple MR board and it's ready for paint. You'll need at least 4 coats with that gladden crap. No professional painter would ever buy their paint from hd. It's either sherwin or Benjamin moore.
And there you have it.
 

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paper hanger and painter
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My opinion on the glidden pva is that it's crap. I've used it twice in a pinch on a small addition and a basement. It's way too watery and not enough pigment in it. You will end up spending more money putting extra coats on. Plus is doesn't have the high hiding additive in it that sherwin Williams master hide flat does. With sw I can put one thick coat on purple MR board and it's ready for paint. You'll need at least 4 coats with that gladden crap. No professional painter would ever buy their paint from hd. It's either sherwin or Benjamin moore.[/quote]


Well, there are some more, but that is the general consensus
 
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