Afternoon friendly/helpful/godsent DIYChatroom'ers:
The diagram below is exactly what I am doing in a final step of my bathroom/shower reno (courtesy of Terry Love
Fairly simple... I bought a replacement kit at HD for the Price Pfister 3 valve model, figured the valve, stems, seats should be replaced along with the trim pieces. Seems easy enough.
- Shut off the main water to the condo (could not find a tub/shower specific cut off). Ran the kitchen sink and sink in the bathroom that is being remodeled and 2nd bathroom sink shower to bleed the lines out. No water coming out of those.
- Took off the old valves with a socket wrench.
As soon as I started unscrewing the hot valve, water came rushing out. I figured this would happen for a few seconds as any excess bled out, but kept going for 30+ seconds....
Not sure what to do, I just put on the old stem again to stop the water flow. It did. Then, tried the cold side and the diverter. Same thing.
I'm not afraid of melting in the water, if it were coming out straight into the tub to drain.. the problem is that the pipe/seat area that receives the valve is set slightly behind my tile/CBU wall and that water flows behind the CBU and into that area behidn the tub (in the wall). Again, not major if its a bit here or there, but I don't want to be "rushed" in replacing the seats and making sure connections are solid - also, getting teflon tape on thread while water is rushing is a bit difficult.
I don't want to overreact (if you've read my other concerns elsewhere, that is precisely what I do) too much, but it boils down to this:
1) Should water be running/bleeding out longer than 30 seconds after all other faucets in the condo are bled out?
2) If that means the main isn't entirely shut off... any other suggestions?
3) Should I just work with the water rushing through/ignore the water and try to finish as quickly as possible?
(Nice things is I'm on bottom floor, with cement slab underneath, so don't have to worry about downstairs neighbor's ceiling collapsing