DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My A/C repairman just called me back and told me it was $550 for the switch. This does NOT sound right. I thought I heard these were around $50? I think I'm getting jerked around here.
 

· Hvac Pro
Joined
·
25,111 Posts
You are. But most companies will travel to your house and install it for $200 and up and we don't care about what the consummer finds out the price is. My boss called a customer who supplied a certain product after finding out his cost on the internet. When asked if he would drop his price because we know his cost. No way in h**ll so why should we give away our services.:no:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
What is the likely culprit then? The LED light flashed in sequence 3 short and one long. I did notice that it was hard to blow into the black tube that was attached to it (I had to blow really hard for air to pass through). What is this tube connected to?
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
By this error code the problem is in vacuum not on the pressure switch......The pressure switch doesn't fail open and close at the same time.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
You need manometer to check if the inducer motor is pulling the vaccum pressure necessary to close the pressure switch....also you can check for any clogged at the exhaust. Using a multimeter you can measure if there is 24vac at the pressure switch when the tsat call for heat.....when you see the igniter glow you should get 0v at the pressure switch.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Thanks. The inducer motor never comes on. Is that because of the pressure switch? I'm not sure how the black vacuum tube connected to the pressure switch works and what the other end is connected to. Thanks again for the assistance!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Interesting. They just replaced the control board over this past summer. Are there any gotchas to replacing the control board? Is it possible they didn't hook up a wire to the correct place? What can I check?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,407 Posts
120v

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum
 

· Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So, against my better judgement, I bought a pressure switch and as said here, the replacement switch did not fix the issue.

So here is the sequence of events so far:
1. I paid an AC repairman to come out and diagnose the issue.
2. He diagnosed the issue as a 'faulty pressure switch'. (faulty diagnosis)
3. The cost to replace the pressure switch was said to be $550. (I found out through my own research that this part costs 21 dollars)
4. I bought pressure switch and replaced it.


I am going back over to my property tomorrow to do some more evaluation. Since this same AC repairman replaced the control board over the summer, i'm really hoping it's as simple as perhaps he didn't screw in the heat wire into the control board. Or it's loose. Which wire will likely be the heat on the control board and which terminal should this wire be on in the control board?


Does this sound like a good plan?-----

1. Check the control board and make sure all wires are secure and in the right terminals.
2. Check power at the inducer wheel when the Tstat clicks on heat. It should show 120v when it clicks on.
3. Check power at the pressure switch to be 24v.

Anything else?

Thanks again.....
 

· In Loving Memory
Joined
·
42,671 Posts
Normally its a white wire, and it should be on the W terminal.
Yes, 120 volts to the inducer.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top