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Pressure switch issue? or something else...

18041 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Plumber101
Hello,

We recently had a plumber out to check why our well pump would short cycle and would run even though there was no water use. We have a 1/3 hp 115v 2-wire submersible pump (according to the control box) with a 110ft well. We have no other information for the pump without pulling it. The house was built in 1966 and everything is original, never been replaced.

The plumber said it was the control box (capacitor and relay were bad), pressure tank (waterlogged), and pressure switch (not really sure), among other pieces/parts. I thought everything was fine until the pump would trip the circuit breaker (15A) when there was a large demand for it to run (laundry, shower, etc.) Every other demand was fine. The new tank is a Well-X-Trol 202-XL with a precharge of 38 psig. The control box is a Franklin 115v 1/2hp #2801044915 and the pressure switch is a Square D 9013 FSG-2, 40 on/60 off

They told us the pump itself is bad and "pushed" (to say it mildly) to come out and replace it for their "special" price. I have heard after he came out about some issues with other customers in the past.

It seemed a bit fishy the way they were doing things, so I decided to do some research myself and found that the pressure switch he installed was different (originally a 30/50 of the same type) and the settings were way off. He had it set 22 on (if the breaker doesn't trip), 40 off with this switch. The control box originally was a Franklin 1/3hp 115v 8.9A #2801020103. The original tank was unknown, it was corroded beyond recognition.

Would any of these issues cause a breaker to trip? I didn't have access to an amp meter, but I was planning to pull the pump and replace it myself this weekend if it is needed, but wanted to cover all other possibilities before I go for it.

Thanks!
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I had a feeling the pump was going out. If I pull the pump for the wiring, I might as well replace the the pump too. Thankfully it has plastic piping to the pump.

Would these settings on the pressure switch cause any ill effects with the new pump? It seems a bit out of sorts.
Thank you very much Plumber101. I will give it a shot and replace it.
The old pump was never pulled. It does still work, but I checked it out again today and watched the gauge. It would blow the breaker when it hit 22 psi to cut on. There was no check valve up top, and would hold pressure. I think either the wiring is damaged or the pump is burning out. It hasn't short-cycled since they replaced the tank and switch.

I bought a new pressure switch today (a 30/50 for about $20) and installed it (relieved the pressure, cut breaker, etc). The wiring was heavily corroded on all the terminals on the new switch (why he couldn't clean them I don't know), so I cleaned them up and wired up the new one. I set it to 28 on and 50 off and ran a faucet for over 30 minutes. It didn't trip the breaker this time, and pressure is good. It would probably have worked with the 40/60 switch, but I just felt comfortable with the same type that was there originally.

I know it is delaying the inevitable with the 40+ year pump, but it seems to be holding out at the moment. I already bought the pump just in case so we'll see.
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