[Nixonplumber]

I'm trying to run a power outlet to the ceiling of my garage. Currently and as the picture shows I have an electrical box with a porcelain light fixture attached.

Can I run an additional 2 outlets off of this or at least 1 if 2 is too many? I was planning on replacing the electrical box shown and running a flexible steel conduit up the wall and across the ceiling to mount the 2nd electrical box to install a power outlet.

Then off of the 2nd box, I was going to continue across the ceiling and down the opposite wall for the 3rd box for a power outlet.

Also, should I use a galvanized pipe or can I use the flexible steel conduit?

 

[surferdude2]

It would be a bit unusual to have receptacles switched with a light. Do you intend to repull that run to have constant power available?

I would run 1/2" EMT on all runs. You can buy 90° and 45° pre-bent bends if you don't have a bender.

I recommend replacing the octagonal box with a 4 square j-box with a cover to fit the keyless light fixture. Then use 4 square j-boxes for the outlets.

Any big box store builders supply will have all you need.

 

[Nixonplumber]

It would be a bit unusual to have receptacles switched with a light. Do you intend to repull that run to have constant power available?

I would run 1/2" EMT on all runs. You can buy 90° and 45° pre-bent bends if you don't have a bender.

I recommend replacing the octagonal box with a 4 square j-box with a cover to fit the keyless light fixture. Then use 4 square j-boxes for the outlets.

Any big box store builders supply will have all you need.

Yes, I was going to replace the box....I don't know what you mean by repull? Yes, I don't want the receptacles switched. The switch that was originally installed is in a very odd useless place....I wasn't going to use the switch....But could I add 2 J Boxes with 2 receptacles or is that too much?

I'm no where near an electrician or any where close. I was quoted ab absurd quote to do this work professionally today and was investigating doing this myself

 

[MrElectricianTV]

I'm trying to run a power outlet to the ceiling of my garage. Currently and as the picture shows I have an electrical box with a porcelain light fixture attached.

Can I run an additional 2 outlets off of this or at least 1 if 2 is too many? I was planning on replacing the electrical box shown and running a flexible steel conduit up the wall and across the ceiling to mount the 2nd electrical box to install a power outlet.

Then off of the 2nd box, I was going to continue across the ceiling and down the opposite wall for the 3rd box for a power outlet.

Also, should I use a galvanized pipe or can I use the flexible steel conduit?

Yes you can do this. The red wire is probably the switch leg that controls the light. Do not connect the wires for the outlets to the red wire. Use the black wires that are spliced with the wirenut and electrical tape and the white wires to connect for the outlets. I don't see a ground wire, but hopefully the box is grounded through conduit or BX cable.

Change the box to a 4" square metal box, 2 1/8" deep so you will have plenty of room for the additional wires. Use a 4" square mud ring for lights so you can put the porcelain light socket back. If you do have a ground in the box you can use a 10/32 screw to connect your ground wire for the outlets by screwing it to the back of the box.

You can use flexible metal conduit. Strap it within in 12" of each box and I think it is supposed to be strapped every 3' after that. EMT conduit will be neater. You can buy prefabricated elbows for 1/2" EMT and also offset connectors for entering the boxes.

Use a GFCI outlet in the first outlet box and connect the wires to the second outlet on to the load side of the GFCI. You should have the GFCI at a reachable level so you can test it periodically and also to reset it if it trips.

 

[Nixonplumber]

Yes you can do this. The red wire is probably the switch leg that controls the light. Do not connect the wires for the outlets to the red wire. Use the black wires that are spliced with the wirenut and electrical tape and the white wires to connect for the outlets. I don't see a ground wire, but hopefully the box is grounded through conduit or BX cable.

Change the box to a 4" square metal box, 2 1/8" deep so you will have plenty of room for the additional wires. Use a 4" square mud ring for lights so you can put the porcelain light socket back. If you do have a ground in the box you can use a 10/32 screw to connect your ground wire for the outlets by screwing it to the back of the box.

You can use flexible metal conduit. Strap it within in 12" of each box and I think it is supposed to be strapped every 3' after that. EMT conduit will be neater. You can buy prefabricated elbows for 1/2" EMT and also offset connectors for entering the boxes.

Use a GFCI outlet in the first outlet box and connect the wires to the second outlet on to the load side of the GFCI. You should have the GFCI at a reachable level so you can test it periodically and also to reset it if it trips.

Thank you for the reply and for making it simple and easy to understand for a nonelectrican. The box has a grounding wire, please see the pic I attached..although the ground wire does not come out of the sheathed wire with the black and white wire coming from the hole in the wall behind the box. Isn't the ground wire typically in the sheathing with the black and white wire?

Adding 2 more receptacles won't overload this breaker?

If I don't connect the receptacle wire to the black they will not be switchable? And if I connect the red wire to the porcelain light to the original box only that will be switcable correct?

 

[surferdude2]

I didn't see that other cable coming into the box in the first picture. We actually need a picture with the wire nuts pulled out so we can see what we're dealing with for colors and power entry. The current wiring on the light is a code violation and will need to be corrected. Give us a better picture.

 

[betelgeuse]

You can use flexible metal conduit.

Flexible metal conduit is prohibited where "Subject to physical damage" like Romex.
The minimum is EMT or Schedule 80 PVC.

 

[Jim Port]

The load is determined by what is plugged in and turned on, not by the number of receptacles installed.

 

[MrElectricianTV]

Flexible metal conduit is prohibited where "Subject to physical damage" like Romex.
The minimum is EMT or Schedule 80 PVC.

What physical damage is anticipated on the ceiling of a garage?

 

[MrElectricianTV]

Thank you for the reply and for making it simple and easy to understand for a nonelectrican. The box has a grounding wire, please see the pic I attached..although the ground wire does not come out of the sheathed wire with the black and white wire coming from the hole in the wall behind the box. Isn't the ground wire typically in the sheathing with the black and white wire?

Adding 2 more receptacles won't overload this breaker?

If I don't connect the receptacle wire to the black they will not be switchable? And if I connect the red wire to the porcelain light to the original box only that will be switcable correct?

It is difficult to determine from the picture exactly where the ground wire originates from. I expect that you will find out when you take it all apart. I have seen ground wires attached to the outside of electrical boxes. It is possible that the metal conduit is being used as the grounding conductor.

Before taking any wires apart, confirm that you have a constant on circuit by checking the white and black wires with a voltage tester or pigtail light socket with the switch on and off.

Mark the wires before you take them apart so you can put them back together the way they were.

I cannot clearly see if the black wire that is on the porcelain light socket is connected to the white wires. If not confirm that it is a neutral by checking it with the black wires. Also check the ground wire with the black wires and also check the metal box with the black wires. Between black and ground you should have approximately 120 volts, same as black and white.

Just adding receptacles to this circuit will not overload it. It is what you plug into the outlets that could possibly overload it such as an electric heater.

Also use a Romex connector on the cable when you replace the box.

I cannot be 100% sure of what exactly is going on with your wiring since I am not there to check and there are only two pictures to evaluate. However based on what I see it seems that it is possible that the red wire is controlled by the wall switch and the black wires are hot all of the time. Use a voltage tester or a pigtail light socket to confirm.

On my website are some light switch wiring diagrams which may be helpful to you.

 

[huesmann]

Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of your proposed ceiling receptacles?