Power is dimmed, but not because of the electric company.

3568 Views 28 Replies 11 Participants Last post by austinomega, Dec 29, 2012

austinomega

Discussion Starter · Dec 22, 2012

As the title suggests, my power is incredibly dim, and even flickers off when i power on an appliance. There wasn't a problem until the purchase and use of a portable radiator heater. After using it for an hour, the power dimmed, and unplugging the device hasn't helped. The power company checked everything on their end, and everything is in order. This is an older home, with a fuse box that uses four 25 amp fuses. Changing these fuses hasn't helped. The electric stove won't even come on anymore. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.

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Jim Port

· #2 · Dec 22, 2012

You may have blown one of the main fuses.

You should not have 25 amp fuses for your branch circuits for lights and receptacles. A twenty amp circuit would be the max.

frenchelectrican

· #3 · Dec 22, 2012

Sound like combation of blowen main fuse and bad connection.

Second thing you should not useing the 25 amp fuse at all you are allready overloading the circuits.

The next step is you will have start to make a circuit map to see what it serve for each fuse so you will know which one to find it.

I know this is the 4+2 fuse box aka small 60 amp fuse box which I know they are common in old days but not any more due more and more circuits are being adding along the way it can overload the exsting service so this part you may want to take a look at the set up and do the upgrading the service.

Merci,
Marc

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austinomega

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 22, 2012

All great information. To the french electrician, when you say 4 + 2 fuse box, you mean four of the smaller fuses, and 2 main fuses? Sorry, i'm very new to this. And it's one of these main fuses i've blown?

frenchelectrican

· #5 · Dec 22, 2012 (Edited)

austinomega said:
All great information. To the french electrician, when you say 4 + 2 fuse box, you mean four of the smaller fuses, and 2 main fuses? Sorry, i'm very new to this. And it's one of these main fuses i've blown?

I will post the photo so to clear up the details.,

Note this photo the picture is rotated for some reason but it wil be on the left side where it marked " MAIN " so when you pull that out the whole house will go dark so use a good flashlight and have new 60 amp fuse cartage ready when you replace it.

Note : here the fuse look like .,

Expect to be little hard to pull out but it is typical to do that.

If other question just holler real quick.

Merci,
Marc

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austinomega

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 22, 2012

Thank you very much for the help. I will update my progress tomorrow.

AllanJ

· #7 · Dec 22, 2012 (Edited)

A connection probably was a little loose and burned up when you plugged in the heater, drawing a lot of power. You will have to find that connection.

Keep the heater unplugged for now. Measure the voltage between each fuse and neutral with differing amounts of loads (number of lights and appliances turned on.) Are any 120 volt branch circuits (you have 4, one for each fuse) always normal?

If you get some voltages somewhat over 125 and other voltages somewhat under 110 then the loose connection is in the neutral. You need to unplug all electronic devices (including microwave ovens) from affected circuits as damage could happen.

It is possible for a bad neutral to be upstream of the panel in which case you might need the help of the electric company.

Loose connections do not rule out the plug-in blades of the black rectangular fuse holders (pull straight out) that hold the main fuses, and the fuses of the 240 volt circuit often labeled "range" (for electric stove). Discoloration of those blades would reveal a problem.

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austinomega

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 23, 2012

Replaced the main fuse, but the problem isn't fixed. Not sure what to do from here.

frenchelectrican

· #9 · Dec 23, 2012

austinomega said:
Replaced the main fuse, but the problem isn't fixed. Not sure what to do from here.

It the time to call your POCO ( POwer COmpanine ) and tell them that you have partal power outage and they will send someone out and check the system for you from the meter to the POCO post or pedestail ( if run underground ) this call useally not charge the fees for comming out on this part.

I want you do this right away don't delay any longer than you have to so that way you can rule out the POCO side useally most case that is true once that clear up then we will go next step which we will discuss a bit is you may want to start do the troubleshooting only if you understand the produces clear but if not too confortable it will be wise to backoff and get a Electrician to come out and assit you on this matter.

Again please do call the POCO to come out and check thier side to make sure.

Then we will go from here depending on your skill level is.

I am not being " rude " but I have to think about safety where I can draw the line to where it stop at the point.

Merci,
Marc

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austinomega

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 23, 2012

I had the power company come out, everything is fine on their end. I'm not experienced in this at all, so understand that any advice you will give, I won't use personally. I've decided to call an electrician after the holidays, but financially, things are tough for me right now. Here is some updated information for you, and any advice you might give, give it as though you were directing a professional. I need to get him briefed as quickly as possible to minimize the cost.

After replacing the four fuses with lower amp ones, i also replaced the clearly blown main, and my lights remain dimmed. I noticed, upon removing the very first normal fuse, that my power was restored considerably, but i still cannot power my water pump or stove. I still have this fuse removed, for fear that the circuit is draining power somehow, and may be hazardous. For a few appliances, such as the television, i have the power running from a different circuit, and it seems adequate in powering it. I think the problem lies within this first circuit, or my old, outdated fusebox in general.

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joed

· #11 · Dec 23, 2012

The problem is one of your hot lines is bad. The problem could be a connection in main disconnect. Turn off the main and measure the incoming power. You should have 120 on each side to ground and 240 between them. If you do not then the POCO need to come back. Did the POCO pull the meter and check inside it? Some time they don't get it on the first call.

austinomega

Discussion Starter · #12 · Dec 23, 2012

I watched them when they came out, they seemed to check the meter, and even checked the transformer. A few more pieces of information, i've isolated what i think is the problem circuit and everything seems to be working considerably better, but i still don't have enough power to kick on the electric stove or the water pump.

zappa

· #13 · Dec 23, 2012

As others have mentioned it sounds like you are missing one of your hot lines. It would be wise to get an electrician or someone knowledgable with a meter to continue troubleshooting this problem. From your description it sounds like the power company only checked to the meter and not to the fusebox and that could be where the problem is. Your stove and water pump probably runs on 240 volts and you need both hots for that. Is the water pump a well pump for your water? The dimming is most likely current flowing through a 240 volt appliance and feeding the missing hot circuit.

austinomega

Discussion Starter · #14 · Dec 24, 2012

Yes, the water pump is for a well. I figured it was along the lines of the pump and stove not getting enough power. As i mentioned, i had the power company come out, but they really didn't indicate anything was wrong. I'll drag them out again, soon. Could part of this malfunctioning hotline be located in the fusebox? When the electrician comes out, i planned on upgrading my service anyway, if i can afford it.

joed

· #15 · Dec 24, 2012

Turn all the double pole breakers(stove, pump. water heater, etc.) and probably half the breakers in the panel will go dead. This is an indication one of your hot leads is out.

austinomega

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 24, 2012

Don't have a breaker box, i have an old 60 amp fusebox. This is part of my problem, i understand.

AllanJ

· #17 · Dec 24, 2012

The old fashioned fuse panel will work perfectly okay provided there are no loose connections in the supply lines feeding it or within the panel itself.

Much electrical equipment uses riveted connections. Over the decades corrosion can develop on the rivet and on the surfaces of the metal parts being joined, causing a bad connection.

Planokeith

· #18 · Dec 27, 2012

Don't mean to hi jack the thread but I am having a similar problem with the power to my garage.

Here is what I have,

I have a 240 volt main romex running to the garage that ends up in a panel box with several breakers.All of a sudden I have no power at all. But I was testing the power leads to the panel box and one read 137 volts and the other read any where form 87 to 109 volts. But when I measured the two hot wire I was getting 2 40 to 250 plus. As I have been reading before It sounds like I have a problem with the main power up stream.

My question(s) is :

Could the panel box with the breakers in it have anything to do with the un even power of the two 120 volts coming into the panel box? Like maybe the nuetral ground in the box ( the one with all the bare wires for extra ground ) be the cause of the un even power?

I did my measurement at the the 220 romex that hooked into the poles in the box.

Thanks in advance

Keith

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frenchelectrican

· #19 · Dec 27, 2012

Planokeith said:
Don't mean to hi jack the thread but I am having a similar problem with the power to my garage.
Is your garage attached or detached ?
Here is what I have,

I have a 240 volt main romex running to the garage that ends up in a panel box with several breakers.All of a sudden I have no power at all. But I was testing the power leads to the panel box and one read 137 volts and the other read any where form 87 to 109 volts. But when I measured the two hot wire I was getting 2 40 to 250 plus. As I have been reading before It sounds like I have a problem with the main power up stream.
That is classic sign for loose netural connection so you will have to check the netural connection at the garage panel and the main panel to make sure the netural connection is good and tight.
My question(s) is :

Could the panel box with the breakers in it have anything to do with the un even power of the two 120 volts coming into the panel box? Like maybe the nuetral ground in the box ( the one with all the bare wires for extra ground ) be the cause of the un even power?

I did my measurement at the the 220 romex that hooked into the poles in the box.

Thanks in advance

Keith

Now if you ran the real romex cable underground I am garrunatee that the cable did failed if you did ran UF cable ( Underground Feeder ) then it should withstand a bit.

have done any digging yet ?

Merci,
Marc

dmxtothemax

· #20 · Dec 27, 2012

Does your panel look like the pic french displayed ?

If so check for power (use a volt meter) at the top
of both of the main fuses. (be carefull).
The black test lead goes to neutral.
the redtest lead to the fuse block.
What is the voltage here with load ? and with out ?

please post results !

You have most likely got a burned out connecttion somewhere.
So start at the beginning and work backward till you find it !

This is the method an electricain would use
to track down the fault.

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