[mfleming]

Hi.

I'm trying to figure out how the heck to get all my wires into the little steel box for the Pot Light (CAN) I have. I have 14/2 coming into Pot light from dimmer switch then 14/2 going out to next pot light. I have a total of 8 Pot lights on this circuit. This is for Manitoba/Canada if that helps.

1. Are they all supposed to fit inside the box and the lid put back on?
2. Do you put the wires through the holes on the side?
3. Also I want to add insulation for sound dampening but these box's are only rated for CFL's if I do that. Can I just keep the insulation back from the lights say 6" all around (which would kinda of make it not insulated and mess up the entire sound proofing but whatever)?
4. On the Box for the Pot lights it says wire clips are recommended. What exactly do these look like?

The Switch box will have only 1 dimmer switch. ( I need to find a deeper single box as I can't find the decorative faceplate that will cover two box's?)

The Room Layout with the Cans.

And Finally the Pot light wiring???

Thanks

Matt

 

[NolaTigaBait]

use a 1/2 romex connector, as far as the insulation, it should tell you how far to keep the insulation from the cans, its usually 3 inches for non i/c, but yours could be different

 

[gunner]

You can get 1/2" romex connectors(required by code you can't just stuff wires in j-box) the ones we use are grey, you can fit two 14/2's in each connector. They go in one way and are designed to hold the wire from pulling out, you also need to have a 1/4" of sheathing inside your junction box on the recessed can. As far as your decorative plate you should be able to find one for a two gang box. If you have a picture of the single I probably can find you a two gang one.

 

[mfleming]

I'm thinking the 6" of cable to strip is too much to all fit in that little box. What is typical for this 1.5" x1.5" X 2-1/2" little box?

 

[handyman78]

As I look at your picture of the pot light wiring I see you have pigtails for each of the connections. See if you can move the romex connections into the box, and only have one for each black, white, ground (3 wirenuts rather than 6) connecting each romex wire with the matching pot light wire. You might be able to just coil the wires to fit into the box. Leave enough romex slack outside the box and you won't need to have the wire inside the box so long.

 

[NolaTigaBait]

typical?...it should say no more than x wires in the jbox(usually its 3)...you need like the above poster stated at least 1/4 inch of sheathing in the jbox and at least 6 inches of wire to work with

 

[NolaTigaBait]

also, like handyman said....get rid of the pigtails, thats more wire you dont need in the box

 

[ponch37300]

If your cans are not IC rated then you should not have insulation touching them. Like mentioned above you should get rid of the pig tails you have and use a romex connector to wire up your lights. If you still can't fit 2 wires in your light boxes then another option would be to put a junction box in a closet or some place where it won't look bad and run one wire from each can to the box and do the splicing in the junction box. The reason I said a closet is it looks like you will be drywalling and the junction box will need to be accesable. Good luck

 

[mfleming]

The reason I said a closet is it looks like you will be drywalling and the junction box will need to be accesable. Good luck

I'm pretty sure I have read this but putting a junction box inside the joist bay behind the can isn't considered accessible is it?

I'll get rid of the pigy's and shorten up the wire inside the box. This is my first time using NON-SOLID wires. What are consider the "good" merretes to use for connection my 3-14/2 wires to the 1-16AWG NON-SOLID wire?

The cans are rated for insulation when using a MAX 400CFL. I'll be using Roxul Safen'Sound.

THanks

 

[gunner]

Most all j-boxs on can lights will give you a maximum number of conductors. Those style I believe to be no more than 6 total 14 gauge wires not including your stranded wires coming from can but due include the ground wire. The 6" inside the j-box is code. The 6" is measured from the 1/4" of sheathing. You can roll them in the box and they should fit. Some people use the according method of folding the wires into a box. As far as connecting the wires I strip the stranded a little longer than the solid, twist the strands as tight as possible and place the end just past the solid when twisting the wire nut on. The stranded tends to wrap around the solid which actually makes it seem to shrink, thats the reason for stripping a little longer. Always pull on wires after tightening the wire nut to ensure proper connections.

 

[ponch37300]

I'm pretty sure I have read this but putting a junction box inside the joist bay behind the can isn't considered accessible is it?

I'll get rid of the pigy's and shorten up the wire inside the box. This is my first time using NON-SOLID wires. What are consider the "good" merretes to use for connection my 3-14/2 wires to the 1-16AWG NON-SOLID wire?

The cans are rated for insulation when using a MAX 400CFL. I'll be using Roxul Safen'Sound.

THanks

That's why I said to put the junction box in a closet so you can leave it exposed and accesable without being in your main ceiling. Sounds like you have a plan. good luck

 

[mfleming]

Got it all in there. I used smaller merits That are basically Max at 2-14 & 1-16AWG and removed the pig tails and it fit in there pretty snuggly but worked.

Thanks

Matt