[jdm001]

Helping a friend that already started, and found that there were some issues with the already complete drywall.

There's a couple sheets of drywall I already fixed; but these two boxes were the worst. All the boxes were flush, so I fixed with box extensions. These two attached were way oversized cuts.

I'm not experienced enough with drywall... Is this sheet shot? It's not mud and taped yet, but it's very hard to get more new drywall in without a rented machine.

Can you fill it with *many* layers of mud or plaster (laid on thin so it won't crack). Or is it a lost cause?

Any tips appreciated!

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum

 

[mae-ling]

depending on how large the gap is you can just mud and tape it

 

[joecaption]

Horrable job of cuttig out, but not worth trying to fix. Just use bigger covers.
They come in three differant sizes. Big, bigger and oh my god what have you done.

 

[jdm001]

Yeah I planned on using an oversized box, but it wasn't big enough lol. I was thinking possibly some decorative design under the wall plate, ive seen it before somewhere.

Where can I find the OMG what have you done wall plate lol

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum

 

[joecaption]

Lowes, HD should have them.
They will be 3/8" larger then a standard cover.

 

[wrongdave]

Easy repair, use "lightweight spackle" to fill it. You can put it on thick and it dries much quicker and is far less likely to crack.

 

[PoleCat]

I always used self adhesive mesh tape and mud around bad cuts with good results but that remodel box needs pristine wall board cut just right in order to remain solid in the wall.

 

[funfool]

use hot mud, will be called ez-sand and comes in 20, 45, 90, min.
Just add water and mix it to a creamy workable mixture, and pack around the box.
Do not get it inside the box and on the electrical connections.
In 1 - 2 hours will be able to apply a second coat.
Try to make first coat smooth or a little shallow, second coat smooth and flat... despite it's name, you can sand it smooth but not the easiest stuff to sand. So do not leave a lot of sanding.

Hot mud has a lot of body and strength to it, not as much as plaster, more then regular mud, and will work fine in this situation. Have used this method for years and never a problem with it.

Pictures can be deceiving, If they are over 3/4", then will need to tape and mud.
Which is fine, just means will need 3 coats of mud, need to feather it out in a larger area to disappear the patch.
I would not even consider replacing the drywall for this issue.

 

[jdm001]

Thanks for all the help everyone. I used the quick set mud with a brace... I cut out a "c" shape on the really bad one, and an I shape on the other.

Braced it with a piece of plywood, and then mudded (nothing over 1/4" so didn't need mesh or tape either).

Pictures of work in progress attached.

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum

 

[funfool]

I feel bad hear ... I just suggested you mix hot mud and fill in as was.
You cut out and made patches, is now bigger then original issue ... now you need tape.

Left as is in original photo, just needed to pack it with hot mud.
Since you changed it from original photos, now you need tape.
I would not run mud over those joints without tape ... they will fail and crack out.
I hope I did not confuse you in some way ... we now see in first photo's pack it with mud.
In second photos where you fixed it till was broke ... you need to add tape and 3 coats mud and blend it in ... or it will crack on the joints.

 

[jdm001]

I feel bad hear ... I just suggested you mix hot mud and fill in as was.
You cut out and made patches, is now bigger then original issue ... now you need tape.

Left as is in original photo, just needed to pack it with hot mud.
Since you changed it from original photos, now you need tape.
I would not run mud over those joints without tape ... they will fail and crack out.
I hope I did not confuse you in some way ... we now see in first photo's pack it with mud.
In second photos where you fixed it till was broke ... you need to add tape and 3 coats mud and blend it in ... or it will crack on the joints.

Ah I wrote that wrong, I did use the mesh, I didn't use tape. But, it was similar to a butt joint, a small 1/4" gap at most.

I put the mesh on when I was doing the mud, so it's covered in the last pictures.

The last pictures are a thin first coat. I did have a bit of a lip so that's why one was feathered out so far. Ill level it out on 2nd coat and then do a light sand and a final coat and sand. I think it'll end up okay.

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum

 

[gregzoll]

Next time you do drywall, use the paint trick to mark where the boxes are on the wall, when you do a test lay of the board. You paint the edge of the box, lay the board against, tap to allow the marking, pull back away, cut the hole, and perfect every time.

Also, just knowing where the box is, rotozip around the box inside where it sits, perfect every time. It is just taking the time, and you will get it right every time.

 

[Fix'n it]

Also, just knowing where the box is, rotozip around the box inside where it sits, perfect every time.

really ? i have been zip'n the outside of the boxs.

 

[ToolSeeker]

If this ever happens again they make a "patch" for lack of a better word that is for this very thing. It is cut out for the plug or switch sticks on the wall, skim coat and done. No tape no butts, just skim and sand. I am not sure but I think you can get them at allwall,com or at the local drywall supplier, I don't know who makes them.

 

[gregzoll]

really ? i have been zip'n the outside of the boxs.

You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.

 

[Fix'n it]

You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.

i will try that, someday. i am done with drywall for a while.

 

[rjniles]

You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.

When I use a roto-zip. I plunge into the center of the box, move to a side, pull back and go outside the box. Then zip around the outside.


I used the Blindmark tool while hanging rock. With the Blindmark tool, you insert the magnet in the box (it has a nub that fits into the screw hole at the top and the bottom). you then tack up the rock, and use the other magnet to find the outlet boxes. Trace around the magnet, then use a rorozip tool to cut the line out. The secret to this is that the outside magnet (the finder) is about as big as the box itself. If you follow the line you made, your rotozip tool will be cutting around the outside of the box. As an added measure of safety, the magnet you install inside the box covers all of the wires as well.

 

[sublime2]

That box in the first pic is an "old work" box. The tabs at top and bottom go outside the rock.

 

[coupe]

Originally Posted by gregzoll
You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.

the trick is, learning when you need to run the rotozip clockwise or counterclockwise

 

[gregzoll]

Originally Posted by gregzoll http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/pos...cuts-see-pics-167148-post1079064/#post1079064
You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.

the trick is, learning when you need to run the rotozip clockwise or counterclockwise

Actually the trick is knowing how to use the tool, or tools at hand, to make the proper cuts.

Before rotozips, it would be measure twice, cut once, or use the pait trick.