I scraped the popcorn from the ceiling in my den. It had a nice knockdown look. When I tried to roll the primer, Zinser 1-2-3, the remaining texture started to come off on the roller. I only rolled about 20% of the room and then quit. The ceiling looked worse than when I started. After the primer dried, I scraped it and the texture underneath off down to the sheetrock. Then I went to plan B. I went and bought a Wagner paint crew plus and and sprayed the primer. This worked great. My plan now is to let the 1-2-3 sit for a week and adhere to the sheetrock. Then I will spray texture on the ceiling, probably the whole ceiling so it will blend. Then roll 2 coats of BM. Does this sound reasonable? Will I have any problems with paint adhering to the ceiling (not the roller) or cracking?
Popcorn Nitemare
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Joined
·
318 Posts
Typically when you remove acoustic texture one scrapes all the way down to the paper, but avoids scraping too hard and tearing the paper. I've done a couple of rooms and it was easier to do it this way and spray with knockdown after fixing any areas that needed skim coated or patched.
You said your wagner paint plus worked good? This is the unit that allows you to spray or have a pressurized roller, correct? I don't get into painting that much, but with just buying a house that needs every wall painted, this might be a good investment.
You said your wagner paint plus worked good? This is the unit that allows you to spray or have a pressurized roller, correct? I don't get into painting that much, but with just buying a house that needs every wall painted, this might be a good investment.
Joined
·
3,089 Posts
Yeswpgtkd said:
You shouldn't
It does not come with the roller, you have to purchase it separately. I would prefer to roll by hand. I was happy with the way it operated. It sprayed evenly and was easy to handle. Cleanup took longer than it did to paint. For a homeowner it seems like a good purchase. I would not recommend it for commercial use. to much plastic.
Thanks slick
I would hate to have to scrape again. I am hoping the 1-2-3 will make the remaining texture stick to the sheetrock. Per the can it has good adhesion and penetrating properties. My other worry is the paint would start to "crack" because it won't adhere.
I would hate to have to scrape again. I am hoping the 1-2-3 will make the remaining texture stick to the sheetrock. Per the can it has good adhesion and penetrating properties. My other worry is the paint would start to "crack" because it won't adhere.
Joined
·
3,089 Posts
You're welcome
If it "cracks", that's another issue...not adhesion
If it "cracks", that's another issue...not adhesion
Joined
·
3,089 Posts
Ah...peeling would most likely be an adhesion issue
Again, it shouldn't be an issue if it's done (mostly prep/prime) correctly
If it peels even after you do this repair as described, it means you have another issue (or issues) deeper than what it appears to be at this time
-contaminated sheetrock, moisture from up above
Possible, yes
Not common enough to suspect at this point, and as your previous failure is common enough, and the fix is as described, I wouldn't worry about cont./moist at this point
If you do the fix as described, and still have peeling, we'll have to look into those "other issues"
Again, it shouldn't be an issue if it's done (mostly prep/prime) correctly
If it peels even after you do this repair as described, it means you have another issue (or issues) deeper than what it appears to be at this time
-contaminated sheetrock, moisture from up above
Possible, yes
Not common enough to suspect at this point, and as your previous failure is common enough, and the fix is as described, I wouldn't worry about cont./moist at this point
If you do the fix as described, and still have peeling, we'll have to look into those "other issues"
Joined
·
3,089 Posts
Well, what's done is done
Gardz normally would not have entered my mind in this type of project
I can't tell from here if the first problem arose due to insufficient prep or what (kinda sounds like it)
The area should have been prepped well enough to roll latex no problem
But, for whatever reason, that didn't work well
When first noticing an issue with the rolling, I would have switched to an alkyd, as not to re-activate the water-based textures
But...you didn't know that, and didn't do that
So, at the point of you posting, after spraying on the water-based primer, and having it stick (or at least not pull down what was up there), so...you should be fine
Spraying works in that type of situation, it's just not usually a realistic DIY occupied re-paint type of option
Would Gardz have been better?
Well....I suppose at that point you may have been able to roll it
That might have been better for someone at that point
But you obviously sprayed w/o issues
So...at this point...
No
:wink:
Popcorn
As I have remodeled every room in my house I have scraped the existing popcorn off of the ceilings. Typically I just spray with water to soften then scrape it. I do find that I have to remove every bit all the way down to the sheetrock. Any liquid (including paint) will cause this stuff to soften and release from the sheetrock. It is possible that you are not removing all of the popcorn (not just the foam pellets-the compound used to coat and adhere the texture) . Since the popcorn finish is a nice way to hide bad sheetrock seams, bumpy ceilings and poor sanding by the original builders, I do apply about 3 skim coats of sheetrock mud with a final sanding. I find that this also covers any remaining popcorn "compound" that may be stuck in small indents in the ceiling. I then prime and paint. My goal is a clean smooth ceiling. If I planned on another texture I would likely still do the above steps just to give me a fresh surface and prevent mixing of the two texture compounds.
As I have remodeled every room in my house I have scraped the existing popcorn off of the ceilings. Typically I just spray with water to soften then scrape it. I do find that I have to remove every bit all the way down to the sheetrock. Any liquid (including paint) will cause this stuff to soften and release from the sheetrock. It is possible that you are not removing all of the popcorn (not just the foam pellets-the compound used to coat and adhere the texture) . Since the popcorn finish is a nice way to hide bad sheetrock seams, bumpy ceilings and poor sanding by the original builders, I do apply about 3 skim coats of sheetrock mud with a final sanding. I find that this also covers any remaining popcorn "compound" that may be stuck in small indents in the ceiling. I then prime and paint. My goal is a clean smooth ceiling. If I planned on another texture I would likely still do the above steps just to give me a fresh surface and prevent mixing of the two texture compounds.
Just wanted to provide an update.........It took a few weekends since I was working so much. I floated out the areas where the old knockdown texture had come off the ceiling. Then I sprayed the whole ceiling with texture. Had a couple of issues with the spray gun but it all worked out in the end. After the texture dryed I scraped off any little globs and it looked pretty good. Next weekend I rolled the first coat with BM ceiling paint. Couple days later I rolled the second coat. It came out great. No issues with the paint falling or cracking. I was really happy even after all the cussing in the beginning. The BM paint goes on smooth. I even touched up my foyer ceiling with it since I used Behr the on it the first time. Thats 4 rooms with no popcorn and 5 to go. I think I am becoming an expert (haha).
Joined
·
17,249 Posts
Nice
Want to do the 4 rooms I have left? :laughing:
Want to do the 4 rooms I have left? :laughing:
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
