[brizzle]

Im moving forward with having a pole barn garage installed on my property.
What is the concrete process for a pole barn.
20x30 pole barn
The grading slopes down. I will measure tommorow. Im assume it drops around 18" for the span of 30 feet.

I assume pole barn installer will have building little above grade on high side.
On the low side i will have 18 inch gap.
Does the gap get filled with gravel?
I would think fill dirt would settle would eventually cause the concrete to crack.

Thank you for any tips or advice.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Fill - compact - fill - compact - fill - compact in an area several feet larger than the building foot print with whatever compactable material is appropriate in your area. Don't rush this step because for concrete it's the most important for concrete under compression.


After all the compaction has passed the compaction tests then the concrete can be poured. This job pictured, with approximately 2' of fill on the far end took 2-3 months as weather permitted. This will allow plenty of time determining what and where any utilities desired will be located. After thoughts with concrete never set too well in the mind and your first shot is usually best.


EDIT: EDIT:

 

[Bondo]

The grading slopes down. I will measure tommorow. Im assume it drops around 18" for the span of 30 feet.

Ayuh,..... Get the pad flat, 'n level, with just enough grade to drain to the doors,.....

Are ya goin' 6", or 4" thick,..??

 

[brizzle]

I assume the pole barn would be installed first. Then all the rock be brought in.
Then Compact fill compact fill process?
Stupid question. But does the concrete installer usually do the rock portion of job as well?
When compact the rock. What type of equipment is used? I have seen the smaller compactors for like paver jobs. Is equipment simular to that?
What type of rock us to be used?
I was told to let rock set in place for 6 to 9 months before concrete work us done. Is this good or bad advice?

Thank you

 

[brizzle]

The grading slopes down. I will measure tommorow. Im assume it drops around 18" for the span of 30 feet.

Ayuh,..... Get the pad flat, 'n level, with just enough grade to drain to the doors,.....

Are ya goin' 6", or 4" thick,..??

Not sure on the thickness.
Big cost difference on 6 to 4?
Bouncing the idea around of a 2 post lift which require diferent concrete specs where post will be. Just concerned on 2 post lift eating up width space of only 20'.
Tough to pull 2 cars side by side if lift on one side.

 

[brizzle]

On grade.
Have earth ground grade level. Digging down the front. Then fill in with rock to bring back up to driveway height?
End of driveway. Grade currently slope down to the back. Front to back span of 30' roughly 18" drop. I will string level tommorow.

 

[Old Thomas]

My 2 post 12,000 lb. lift required at least 4” of 3500 lb. compressive strength reinforced concrete. I had 5” of 4000# so it worked.
If you fill, taper the edge at 45 degrees or less.

 

[stadry]

we like balancing cuts & fill,,, take from the high side & place on the low side,,, compact WELL using vibratory padfood then add gab

 

[brizzle]

we like balancing cuts & fill,,, take from the high side & place on the low side,,, compact WELL using vibratory padfood then add gab

If grade slope down from front to back.
High side us at driveway height.
Would you cut high side down add to low side and then use rock to build up to driveway height.

 

[Bondo]

If grade slope down from front to back.
High side us at driveway height.
Would you cut high side down add to low side and then use rock to build up to driveway height.

Ayuh,.... Exactly,.....

 

[brizzle]

If grade slope down from front to back.
High side us at driveway height.
Would you cut high side down add to low side and then use rock to build up to driveway height.

Ayuh,.... Exactly,.....

With that said.
Would there be a wall around the permiter with concrete block? Like retaining wall to hold rock.
Or would a form be built to hold rock and concrete?
Im sorry for not fully understanding process.
I just want to have idea before concrete contractors start comming out to bid.

 

[cparktd]

Around here...
Barn builders expect you pre level and gravel the pad area, or have it done. They don't usually do this themselves. After the base is ready the barn builder comes in and erects the pole barn including placing a 2x6 skirt, level, all the way around the building... this becomes the concrete form and the concrete is pored by a separate concrete contractor, sourced by you. The floor is pored up to / even with the top of the 2x6. So usually two or three contractors are involved. There are some turn key contractors that do it all, or at least handle it all for you under one contract, but that is not real common and sometimes the concrete guy will also prep the pad.

 

[Bondo]

With that said.
Would there be a wall around the permiter with concrete block? Like retaining wall to hold rock.
Or would a form be built to hold rock and concrete?
Im sorry for not fully understanding process.
I just want to have idea before concrete contractors start comming out to bid.

Nope neither,.....

The sub-soils are graded to finish grade, minus the depth of the concrete, 'n stone,......
The spoils would be used to backup the edges of the stone, to hold it in-place, 'n then seeded,.....

Then of course, the stone is graded to finish grade, minus the depth of the concrete,.....
Hopefully there's enough spoils to back-fill the edges of the concrete too,....

 

[Porsche986S]

In the past three years I have had two pole barns installed on my property . One is a 24x26 which is a full blown man cave with HVAC/TV/internet/man cave decorations/2 post lift . The other is a 24x24 and is going to be just a parking structure for our daily drivers . In both cases I poured the concrete floors after pole barn install .

The 24x26 I went a full 6 " thick with fiberglass reinforced high strength concrete , for the area where the posts for the 2 post lift were going to be installed I did a 36" x 36 " square that was 9 " thick and tapered the sides of the holes . I did not use any rebar . I leveled/compacted the dirt over a 6 month period . I drove my JD garden tractor and my 4x4 diesel dually on the dirt to compact it . When I was happy with the results I put down plastic and # 57 gravel and had the concrete dude do his thing .

For the 24x24 I had a slope to deal with running side to side . Just like the other garage I screwed 2x6's around the outside of the posts to the height I wanted the concrete to be . Kept filling/compacting until it was where I needed it to be . On that one I also " watered it in " several times . This is in red Georgia clay that sets up quite hard when compacted . Covered with plastic and poured that floor about 4 " - 5 " thick . Because I poured a little thinner I did a rebar grid spaced 24 " just to be safe . Also used the fiberglass reinforced concrete . Same company poured both .

I am just a DIYer with common skills , I have no clue if I did the job right or not . I will say the oldest pour ( the man cave ) has no cracks not even a hairline crack anywhere . The 2 post lift is solid as a rock with no cracks around the posts . I believe both buildings will be there loooooong after I am gone :biggrin2: . Good luck with your project .