True, but ONLY when the PT lumber is the correct type made for GROUND CONTACT! There IS a difference and an inspector would likely make you remove it and use the correct type. When I did this home, I used the correct type for the first 2' at the bottom, then normal ply for the rest. (I believe minimum required is 6")Wood against concrete is generally pressure treated
By number on the little tag stapled to the board.Danger: Never heard of different types of PT wood. How do you tell the difference, and what is the ground contact stuff called? thanks. j
Thanks, Ron. The more I read about PTW, the better TimberSil looks.By number on the little tag stapled to the board.
Third question down the page.
Anywhere I’ve ever worked the wall sheathing must have full perimeter nailing.What is "blocking" that people are referring to?
It's a regional thing. I framed along the East Coast of NJ for 20 years. Never was blocking required for perimeter nailing on exterior sheathing and it was installed horizontally 99% of the time.Anywhere I’ve ever worked the wall sheathing must have full perimeter nailing.
If you run the sheets vertically this is achieved by the studs and the top and bottom plates.
If you run the sheets horizontally the top edge of the first row of sheets will only have the studs to nail to. You need to add a row of blocking between the studs for nailing.
The blocks not only for nailing but also a fire stop.
If the sheathing is installed as mentioned (horizontally with no blocks and a gap between the sheets) this would be inviting fire to enter the wall cavity.
Look around at new construction I doubt you will see many if any with horizontal sheathing. Any strength it may add is outweighed by the extra material and labor cost to the framer.
Plumbers and electricians don’t think much of it either.