[rdcusmc]

Looking for advice on this plumbing set up (see pics). Planning to add a 2 inch vent to the toilet and shower run and then vertical up the wall and connect horizontally above the lav drain. This has not been glued yet and proper pipe slope is being fine tuned. I'm told the current design will work properly as it is wet vented but don't have a warm fuzzy about it and think the extra venting on the toilet soil and shower will ensure this works.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ron

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3898604...7618992774175/

 

[Plumber101]

Can't open the link

 

[rdcusmc]

Sorry. Try this.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157618992774175/

 

[Plumber101]

None of this is glued?

I would move the the 90 of the toilet to the 90 clean out and put the 90 clean out where the 90 is.

Move the 3x3x2 just after the clean out in the horz run

Basically moving the vent closer to the toilet

Also with the lav vent it must go 6" above flood level rim before it can change direction (Horz)

Looks like you have a good slope on the 3"

 

[rdcusmc]

New construction - roughing this out, hence no glue. Want to get the job right.

No sweat on swapping the 3" elbow and clean-out. What I hear from your post, if I'm following is to put the 3-3-2 immediately after the clean-out and reroute the vents? What happens if I simply add another 3-3-2 in the place you suggest, run horizontally to the wall and then up vertically the appropriate distance and tie horizontally back into the stack?

Looking at the 3rd picture, on the left we have 3 inch drain for toilet, then 2 inch drain for shower and the lav drain on the right. Lav drain has a sani-t so the vent continues out to the ceiling.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Ron

 

[Plumber101]

New construction - roughing this out, hence no glue. Want to get the job right.

No sweat on swapping the 3" elbow and clean-out. What I hear from your post, if I'm following is to put the 3-3-2 immediately after the clean-out and reroute the vents? What happens if I simply add another 3-3-2 in the place you suggest, run horizontally to the wall and then up vertically the appropriate distance and tie horizontally back into the stack?

Looking at the 3rd picture, on the left we have 3 inch drain for toilet, then 2 inch drain for shower and the lav drain on the right. Lav drain has a sani-t so the vent continues out to the ceiling.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Ron

Adding another 3-3-2 is fine but why run more pipe. It looks like you are running a 2" for the lav if it goes up and turns horz and ties into the stack like it should then you are wet venting the sink. If the lav is 1 1/2" then I would run the second vent.

Drain requirements

Lav min 1 1/2"
shower 2"
toilet 3 or 4
shower 2"

 

[rdcusmc]

Added 2 additional pics to the web link showing the above view.

Lav is 1.5 dumping immediately into a 2 inch drain which also vents to ceiling. Does this change your recommendation?

Thanks again!

Ron

 

[Plumber101]

Ok

Switch the clean out and 90

Leave everything else

Add another 3-3-2 and take the 2" up through the wall and tie back into the stack vent

The reason I want to add the 2" is the vent sometimes can be reduced to 1/2 of the building drain. 3" drain and 1 1/2 vent depending of dfu's (drain fixture units) but I don't know what you have down stream from this and if you want to add something later it would be best to go ahead and run 2"

What size is the vent you are going to tie into?

 

[rdcusmc]

Roger - got it on the switch and adding the additional 3-3-2 and tying into the stack. The vertical vent on the lav is 2 inch and runs to the ceiling without tying into any other fixtures.

Downstream about 30 feet I will tie in a 2 inch washer drain which I was planning to vent by itself up through the ceiling. Because of the roof design, I won't be able to tie the washer vent to any other vents in the home.

Your advice rocks - greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Plumber101]

Roger - got it on the switch and adding the additional 3-3-2 and tying into the stack. The vertical vent on the lav is 2 inch and runs to the ceiling without tying into any other fixtures.

Downstream about 30 feet I will tie in a 2 inch washer drain which I was planning to vent by itself up through the ceiling. Because of the roof design, I won't be able to tie the washer vent to any other vents in the home.

Your advice rocks - greatly appreciated. Thanks!

You can leave the lav at 1 1/2 and come back to the 2" you are going to add and tie the two

Also I might add becareful with the notching and boring of the joices. I can't realy tell but it looks like the notches that have been done are getting a little too deep. Other than that looks really clean

 

[rdcusmc]

New Pics

Thanks again for the advice previously given. I've added pictures of the revision per our discussion to the previous flickr address. Let me know what you think.

I've also added pictures of the washing machine drain that I'm roughing in next. Still early and no glue but wanted to ask if there is any problem you see with this simple run. Will vent to its own 2 inch vent as pictured.

Ron

 

[Plumber101]

Looking good.

From the pic for the washer is the T in front of the P-trap going to be connected to a vent?

 

[rdcusmc]

Thanks for the quick reply and compliment on work.

"Yes" on the T in front of the trap. It will vent to the side virtually straight to the rough in its on vent. I'd rather not but don't have much of a choice but to add the additional vent.

Question - any problems with the washer P trap in this location just below the floor? Most of the pictures and references I've seen have it located within about 18 inches of the top of the drain above the floor rather than below.

Thanks again,
Ron

 

[Plumber101]

I kind of have a problem with the location of the trap but as you stated not much of a choice with that darn window in the way of putting a vent straight up there.

The only thing I would do is make the vent as close to the trap as possible

 

[Plumber101]

Depending on which code you use

UPC 2006 requires trap 18" above floor and stand pipe no longer than 30"

IPC 2006 doesn't state trap location but stand pipe no longer than 42"

 

[rdcusmc]

I can do that - no worries. Will do.

As someone whose been in the trade for a while, anything in particular I should keep in mind as I prep for the plumbing inspection?

Thanks again.

Ron

 

[Plumber101]

Thinking about it could you move the vent next to the window and tie in the vent above. Install a T in the vent 18" above the floor, run a short horz piece to the trap and then up to the washer connection. Thus eliminating the trap below the sub-floor

 

[Plumber101]

I can do that - no worries. Will do.

As someone whose been in the trade for a while, anything in particular I should keep in mind as I prep for the plumbing inspection?

Thanks again.

Ron

It is always Yes sir/maam, No sir/maam to the inspector.

Because the are different codes depending on local jurisdiction it is also wise to discuss the project as you go along. Most code depts will come out as you progress and to give advise to the job so that you don't have to tear out. Also you need to check with your local codes to see how the test the system integerty - if they do at all.

Here we have to fill the complete system with water 10 feet above the highest fixture connection.

 

[rdcusmc]

Just to make sure I'm tracking, are you saying to have a stack vent to the left of the window that also serves as the drain with a horizontal run to the right to a p-trap above the subfloor?

Thanks for the inspector advise. My intention was to call the inspection office today and see if they would come out to approve of the work so far and make recommendations just in case. Didn't get around to it today but will tomorrow.

Thanks,
Ron

 

[Plumber101]

Just to make sure I'm tracking, are you saying to have a stack vent to the left of the window that also serves as the drain with a horizontal run to the right to a p-trap above the subfloor?

Thanks for the inspector advise. My intention was to call the inspection office today and see if they would come out to approve of the work so far and make recommendations just in case. Didn't get around to it today but will tomorrow.

Thanks,
Ron

I think you are tracking fine. Install a vertical pipe to the left of the widow that goes down and attaches to the drain and up that ties into the vent.
18" above sub-floor install a "T" and off the T run horizonal through the stud to the trap and then up to the washer connection. The stand pipe can be no longer that 30" from the trap weir.

Also you are using 2" for the pipe size?

Since this is in an exterior wall make sure you insulate the trap well.