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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting ready to tear my current cabinets and sink out and install new. I have a couple questions about what is installed at the moment. Currently I have copper piping, which is going to be cpvc with adapted to copper that we will be cutting (yes, I know copper is better, but my dad and I don't do copper well).

If you look at the first picture, it shows "4" copper pipes installed. Looking at the 2nd, you can see why (the hot has the same thing with the T going out the other side), and the third shows the "2nd" pipe with a cap on the top. My plan is to have one single cpvc for each cold and hot, with a steel braided hose for each. My question is why is this here? And since it is currently like this, should we be able to do it the way I describe?

The last picture shows my drain to the wall. We believe it drains to cast iron. I'll be putting new pvc drain pipe in. Should I have any problems with this? What other pieces will I need for this? I am assuming/hoping that everything screws off easily, but the sawzall batteries are charging just in case.

If you need anymore info, please ask, and I will do my best to answer.
 

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the extra copper pipe coming off the tee is an air chamber probably put in for rattling pipes. in theory they trap air and since air compresses they absorb the water hammer when you shut a faucet off quickly. over time the air is absorbed into the water and they arent effective then. but if you turn the water off and drain the system they will have air trapped in them and work again. they make regular devices for water hammer now that are sealed inside and work much better. you should be able to use 1-1/2 tubular pvc with your existing drain. looks like an 1-1/2 slipnut at the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the extra copper pipe coming off the tee is an air chamber probably put in for rattling pipes. in theory they trap air and since air compresses they absorb the water hammer when you shut a faucet off quickly. over time the air is absorbed into the water and they arent effective then. but if you turn the water off and drain the system they will have air trapped in them and work again. they make regular devices for water hammer now that are sealed inside and work much better. you should be able to use 1-1/2 tubular pvc with your existing drain. looks like an 1-1/2 slipnut at the wall.
So should I have any problems with the way I described I want to do it with a single line? Or if I do switch to cpvc, will I need to run the T with the extra line with a cap?
 

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You need air chambers (knockers) it's important---keeps the pipes from shaking and making noise.

Also add some shut off valves.

When the cabinets are out---replace the old steel drains with PVC---Check the elevation of the drain outlet---modern sinks with a garbage disposer are deeper and require a lower drain opening than the old days.

When making up the new sink drains use two P traps(one for each side of the sink) -this set up is less prone to trouble and may be code in your area---it is in mine.-----Mike----
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You need air chambers (knockers) it's important---keeps the pipes from shaking and making noise.

Also add some shut off valves.

When the cabinets are out---replace the old steel drains with PVC---Check the elevation of the drain outlet---modern sinks with a garbage disposer are deeper and require a lower drain opening than the old days.

When making up the new sink drains use two P traps(one for each side of the sink) -this set up is less prone to trouble and may be code in your area---it is in mine.-----Mike----
So don't do a single pipe coming across from the disposer to the P trap, like shown in the first picture? Get two P traps going into a Y?
 

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So don't do a single pipe coming across from the disposer to the P trap, like shown in the first picture? Get two P traps going into a Y?
Yes--two P-traps and a Y----Much less chance of a back up into the adjoining sink--Just a better job.

When making up a sink bottom---Don't add the Y or T until you have the P-traps loosely installed--Then you will be able to see the best position for the Y or T---That's a lot easier than trying to get the P-traps into an existing fitting.
 
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