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plumbing for shower and commode in upstairs 2 x 6 floor

18385 Views 12 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  moneymgmt
The tornado hit my house and the 2nd level was reconstructed on a 2 x 6 floor. How can I plumb in the traps for the shower and commode for the upstairs bathroom?
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Cathy---you need to give us some more details and a correct size---2x6 is too small for a shower and toilet---

photos help--a plan is also good in new construction---do you need to simply install the P-traps? or do you need to rough in the entire plumbing?
I think she means 2x6 floor joists were used maybe?

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Ah,yes---floor joists---I never saw a 2x6 floor joist so that did not sink in---around here we use bigger ones----good catch---
Ah,yes---floor joists---I never saw a 2x6 floor joist so that did not sink in---around here we use bigger ones----good catch---
Using 2x6 floor joists seems a bit anemic unless the span is really short. In my log house, the joists are 2x12 at 16" oc. In high traffic areas, they're doubled up. In the kitchen, they're 12" oc. Trust me, my floor doesn't bounce.
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I'd be very, very concerned with just 2 X 6's for floor joist!
What will be left when the 3" drain goes through it?
What will be left when the 3" drain goes through it?
http://www.metwood.com/products/reinforcer
What distance OC and Span are you carrying? Who designed your new upper floor???
The tornado hit my house and the 2nd level was reconstructed on a 2 x 6 floor. How can I plumb in the traps for the shower and commode for the upstairs bathroom?
Shower trap will not be concealed in a 2x6 floor and a toilet does not need a trap under it- its in the toilet
Why was the floor framed with 2x6's?!?

If that meets code (and I'd be surprised if it did), you have a couple of options:

1) Change it from a shower to a tub. A shower requires a 2" drain while a tub only needs an 1 1/2" drain - assuming you're within so many feet between the trap and the vent (in my state, that's 5 feet, but check your local codes). An 1 1/2" ptrap will fit within 2 x 6 framing.

2) If you have the height below, drop the ceiling to give you a couple more inches. Strapping nailed to the bottoms of those joists will give you an extra 3/4" to play with - maybe double, or triple strap it if you have to.

Hopefully, the toilet is close enough to a partition below that you don't have to run very far. Within a 2x6 floor structure, the closet bend will already be at, or below the bottom of the joist even when it's pushed up as high as possible. Then the horizontal drain needs to have 1/4" pitch until it drops to vertical. That strapping (mentioned above) will get you (hopefully) a maximum 3 foot run.

And finally, you certainly can't drill a 3 5/8" (OD) hole through a 2x6, so unless the toilet drain runs straight down between two joists and immediately down a "wet wall", you won't be able to do it.
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I know they make bathtubs in "Above floor rough-in" configuration, perhaps they make a shower in a similar style so that most of your trap arm and p-trap will be above the subfloor, resulting in a step up into the shower.
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Entire cities were built like that up here, all 2x6 ceiling bungalows. Being low-ceiling upstairs means showers are nearly out of the question unless you put it right in the middle of the wall or build out a dormer. The spans are short so putting a toilet or sink near a bearing wall below is quite common. What I did in mine was ran the drains parallel between the joists, then dropped down to the first floor to a common line, then soffit-ed over it to conceal it. Never would I attempt to put the weight of a tub on it though.
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