[EyeAtDIY]

10 years ago I had the (original 1963) furnace replaced. Installer did not install chimney liner. As a result... (See attachments.) 3 years ago I had a liner installed. Unfortunately, the damage has been done.

I have been informed that removing the chimney is an option. Cost is a HUGE factor. To tear down chimney and rebuild the cost is $2700. The furnace is 10 and hot water heater 7 years old.

I've learned a high efficiency furnace is necessary to remove the existing chimney.
The questions?
Do I need to replace the water heater?
What is a reasonable cost to replace/repair the affected roof area? (roof is newer 2006)
What is a reasonable cost to replace/repair the gutter/soffit?
What is a reasonable cost to replace the brick work?
(brick cannot be matched) suggestions for visually pleasing options?
Can ventilation be run through the currently affected brick area?
Do I start with HVAC tech or general contractor? If not...
Should I subcontract?
Are there other things I should consider?

I'd really appreciate feedback!

 

[COLDIRON]

What do you mean by damage ? Is it unstable , can it be re pointed, can a new stainless liner be installed, why the rip out??

 

[Deuce 2]

I agree with COLDIRON, why tear it down. Unless this chimney is completely unsafe, it will be a lot less to repair or fix it. I also do not understand why you will need to go with a high efficiency furnace that is an option you make; it has nothing to do with the chimney. By going with a high efficiency furnace you should also go with an AL26-4C liner, which will give you a lifetime warranty. High efficiency appliances produce more acidic gases and will corrode even a stainless steel liner or deteriorate an unlined chimney flue.
There should be no reason you will need to replace the hot water heater unless you are having problems with the existing one.
I'd get some additional opinions, something doesn't seem right.

 

[Wildie]

My h/e furnace doesn't require a chimney. It uses an ABS wall vent.
A standard natural gas hot water heater does require a chimney.
Perhaps a power vent could be retro-fitted to allow the hot water heater to be used without a chimney.
Maybe someone else can enlarge on this possibility.

 

[EyeAtDIY]

My h/e furnace doesn't require a chimney. It uses an ABS wall vent.
A standard natural gas hot water heater does require a chimney.
Perhaps a power vent could be retro-fitted to allow the hot water heater to be used without a chimney.
Maybe someone else can enlarge on this possibility.

Thank you, that is helpful.

 

[sixeightten]

Check with a local Heating company about installing a sleeve through the existing chimney. You can probably tear it partially down, just to the roof level, and leave the rest as the sleeve will go inside the chimney. The part that extends through the roof has a pan type flashing that finishes things off. You will have a small amount of roof repair to do.

 

[EyeAtDIY]

Check with a local Heating company about installing a sleeve through the existing chimney. You can probably tear it partially down, just to the roof level, and leave the rest as the sleeve will go inside the chimney. The part that extends through the roof has a pan type flashing that finishes things off. You will have a small amount of roof repair to do.

Thanks for your response! Is this an option with my current 80% efficiency furnace?

 

[sixeightten]

Thanks for your response! Is this an option with my current 80% efficiency furnace?

I am pretty sure it is. We had this issue on a job about ten years ago and I am pretty sure that is what they had. Check with the HVAC guys. Basically, if they come out and say it will work, you could shut down the furnace and HW heater, knock the bricks and flue down, and piece in the roof sheathing with a few screws. When they arrive the following day, they can unscrew the sheathing, insert the liner, and set everything except the top flashing boot. Then you go back and tooth in the shingles.

 

[EyeAtDIY]

I am pretty sure it is. We had this issue on a job about ten years ago and I am pretty sure that is what they had. Check with the HVAC guys. Basically, if they come out and say it will work, you could shut down the furnace and HW heater, knock the bricks and flue down, and piece in the roof sheathing with a few screws. When they arrive the following day, they can unscrew the sheathing, insert the liner, and set everything except the top flashing boot. Then you go back and tooth in the shingles.

That would be awesome! I'll check it out and let you know the outcome! This could save me thousands and finally give me some peace of mind!

Thanks again!