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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all, currently have andersen 400 series windows from 1998 and they are starting to rot. The frames are faded and falling apart so I would like to try to replace a couple myself. Scary i know! Anyway, its a brick home and if I measure on the outside the brick opening is much larger than the interior with all the trim removed. I assume I have to go by the exterior size which is 33 3/4 x 52 3/4. Am I correct in this? And can I order standard replacement windows or do I need new install with the nailing strips cut off? Thanks so much for any guidance!
 

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Hey all, currently have andersen 400 series windows from 1998 and they are starting to rot. The frames are faded and falling apart so I would like to try to replace a couple myself. Scary i know! Anyway, its a brick home and if I measure on the outside the brick opening is much larger than the interior with all the trim removed. I assume I have to go by the exterior size which is 33 3/4 x 52 3/4. Am I correct in this? And can I order standard replacement windows or do I need new install with the nailing strips cut off? Thanks so much for any guidance!
Usually you would just order the size of the rough framing and they are made about 1/2" smaller than that. I would think a replacement window is the same size just with out a flange. Usually windows come in increments pf 2" like 52 and 54 so your 53 is odd for some reason. Maybe to fit the lay of the brick work.
 

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Measuring for a replacement window is totaly different then measuring for a new construction window.
Your measuring the inside of the jams, the sill and head piece distance, not the R/O of the framing.
Once you get those measurements you subtract 1/4" and that's the size that needs to be ordered.
Replacement window can be ordered to the exact size you order, there is no 2" rule.
There is no need to take anything off to just measure the opening.
In most cases it takes about 2 weeks to recieve the new windows.
There also going to need to know what type, placement and number of lights (fake window panes) you want.
EG: just because your old windows may be the common what's called 6 over 6 does not mean you have to stick with that, in my case I choose them to be 3 over 0, that way there are no deviders at the bottom restricting the view.
If your's the type I'm thinking of the sashes are held in place with window stop that will need to be removed with a flat bar, then you raise both sashes and pry out the metal tracks just enough to get the staples to pull out of the jamb. lower both sashes and pop out the top ones.
You should now be able to grab both sashes and give them a yank and the whole thing will come out, tracks and all.
Your going to need about 3/4 of a tube of caulking per window, make sure it's paintable caulking so it can be used inside.
Your also going to need some low expanding foam, it's used to fill any gaps, I also use it to partly fill in the huge gap at the bottom of the window before installing the outside filler strip.
Once you get past the first one you should be able to remove and install a new window in under an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are photos to show what I mean. Thank you for the input! I have no idea why its such an odd size. Im nervous to order a custom suze window and then im stuck with it if it doesnt fit! These windows I can remove the sash and then cut out the frame but I would like to remove all of the vinyl material as its cracked and faded all the way around
 

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