picking out fence posts
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Try to find the ones with the straightest grain pattern.
These will warp the least, as well as the fewest knots, voids, or generally ugly.
As you are going to look at these for quite a while.
Depending on the weight of the gate a beefier post is needed as gate posts,
Then there is corner posts, a bit heavier and definitely the best straight grain you can find.
ED
These will warp the least, as well as the fewest knots, voids, or generally ugly.
As you are going to look at these for quite a while.
Depending on the weight of the gate a beefier post is needed as gate posts,
Then there is corner posts, a bit heavier and definitely the best straight grain you can find.
ED
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37,499 Posts
I'd suggest when you get them home to lay them out laying on 2 X 4's and wait about a week before installing them.
Almost always no matter how straight they look in the store once they start to dry out some are going to want to twist and curl.
Far better to have them do that before the install so you can set them aside and return them.
Outside corners and the gate post are always the weak points, make sure you run that post hole digger down as far as you can, open up the hole more by running it in at an angle and scraping the sides with a long handled spade.
That way you'll have more room for the needed bags of concrete and straight sides to help stop the frost from lifting the post.
Almost always no matter how straight they look in the store once they start to dry out some are going to want to twist and curl.
Far better to have them do that before the install so you can set them aside and return them.
Outside corners and the gate post are always the weak points, make sure you run that post hole digger down as far as you can, open up the hole more by running it in at an angle and scraping the sides with a long handled spade.
That way you'll have more room for the needed bags of concrete and straight sides to help stop the frost from lifting the post.
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37,499 Posts
Just a guess but would the frost line in your area not be about 4'?
If so then you may want to conceder an extention for that post hole digger and longer post.
Would hate to have you get it all laided out and have it all go bad on you next year.
If so then you may want to conceder an extention for that post hole digger and longer post.
Would hate to have you get it all laided out and have it all go bad on you next year.
If you are dealing with pt......and you take it home and "see what happens"... You will learn new meanings for the terms "banana" and "warped" and "crooked" etc. regardless of the wood that you are using, get it to the property and then get it in place soonest...without regard for what it is....with the possible exception of th Virginia split rail products which are in most areas locustosts with oak raiils. Ron
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2,585 Posts
You forgot propeller Ron
Our frost line is 32"..
But our post only needs to be down 24" with drainage..
Something new....
It's believed oxygen can only get down between 17" and 21"...
Treat your post with bug treatment down about 20"..
Wrap your post down the same...
Electric company has been doing this.
They say it needs to be done every ten years..
But our post only needs to be down 24" with drainage..
Something new....
It's believed oxygen can only get down between 17" and 21"...
Treat your post with bug treatment down about 20"..
Wrap your post down the same...
Electric company has been doing this.
They say it needs to be done every ten years..
I was picking through a post pile at a "box store" a few years ago, and came across a "BOOMERANG" one it made a 90 degree turn, I passed on it.
ED
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