[montyg]

Hi all,

I tried replacing the original hand-towel rack in my 1/2-bath, and got a wall geyser instead.

The small hole in the pic below is the one I drilled. The two bigger holes are where the original towel rack was screwed in!
The dark spot is almost a decade worth of rust and presumably mineral build up that must have created enough of a dam to keep the pipe from leaking when I removed the original towel rack.

I kind of feel lucky that I drilled into the pipe, otherwise I wouldn't have know about this ticking timebomb.

So, what's the best approach to repairing this?
Does it make sense to buy the tools and parts to do it myself for just this one repair?
Can I just fill the holes with a polyethylene compatible adhesive, such as Tap Plastic's Poly Weld?

The pipe is 1-1/4" Wirsbo, and is the main line. There's an expanded coupling to a manifold a few inches above the 4x4" hole I cut in the wall, and there is a clamp nailed to the stud a few inches below the hole. So, there is very little play in the pipe right now to work with.

For now, I've temporarily patched it with a wrapping of self-sealing silicon tape and a couple of pipe clamps.

Thanks,

Monty

 

[joed]

i don't know a lot about PEX but I would be looking for coupler to cut the section out and rejoin. then apply a metal nailing plate over it.

Or buy some stainless steel screws and put them back in the holes.:jester:

 

[BillZ]

The home centers carry a shark bite repair section. You remove a two inch section from the pipe, clean up the ends and plug the ends into it. If you have more then two inches you can purchase a small section of pipe and two shark bite connectors and piece it together. No tools needed.

 

[Canucker]

Wirsbo makes a coupler for that. If you don't already have the tool or a need for it, probably cheaper to hire someone who does to install it.

 

[joecaption]

Anyone else never heard of an 1-1/4 Pex?
1" yes not 1-1/4"

 

[BillZ]

I missed that. It's prolly 1".

 

[TheEplumber]

Anyone else never heard of an 1-1/4 Pex?
1" yes not 1-1/4"

Yep, ran a bunch of 1 1/4",11/2" & 2" for commercial bathrooms. used Uponor fittings- fast and cheap compared to 2" type L. Of course the tool price would take your breath away :yes:

 

[Ghostmaker]

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...kBite&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053

Looks like 3/4 to me.
Use sharbyte and follow the instructions and small piece of pex. Cut out the bad holy pipe...

 

[Akpsdvan]

When did Sharkbite start making 1 1/4?
There is going to be the need to open up more of the wall to make the repair to the line that has the holes.
Even if Sharkbite had a 1 1/4 coupler there is going to be the need to move either end of the pipe a few inches so that the coupler can be used.
Wirsbo with 2 1 1/4 couplers and the crimp rings would be the way to go, but here again there is going be the need to move the current pipe so that the couplers can be placed within the current pipe.

 

[montyg]

Thanks for all the replies!

The outside diameter of the pipe is 1.31", so it's definitely bigger than 1", and sounds like 1-1/4" to me -- which means getting fittings from the big-box stores is out of the question. I've found the Uponor connector I need at pexsupply.com, but I'd still need to get the expander tool.
Some friends have PEX expander and crimp tools, but only up to 3/4".

I don't think I'd just be able to cut out the holey section and couple the free ends together because of the built-up crud in the pipe. I'm thinking I'd need to remove the pipe all the way up to the expanded connector to the manifold. So, unfortunately, a bigger hole in my wall. It also means I would need a short length of 1-1/4" Wirsbo, which I don't think I can buy w/o buying a full roll.

All of this is leading me to think I'll need to call in the experts, but I'd thought I throw it out there for suggestions first.

Or buy some stainless steel screws and put them back in the holes.:jester:

I did actually pick up some SS screws when I ran out to Home Depot to find a quick fix just before they closed -- just in case the tape and pipe clamps didn't work. The original screws held for almost a decade after all, and they weren't even SS.

 

[Akpsdvan]

If you can find the contractor that did the work the first time around with the pex and the plumbing and had the wall opened up , then I would bank that they could be in and out in an hour... but I would call them first if you can get ahold of them and find out.
Might be the fastest and cheaper way of doing it than running half over town a few times to get the right parts and tools to do the job..
Just an idea.

 

[TheEplumber]

If you can find the contractor that did the work the first time around with the pex and the plumbing and had the wall opened up , then I would bank that they could be in and out in an hour... but I would call them first if you can get ahold of them and find out.
Might be the fastest and cheaper way of doing it than running half over town a few times to get the right parts and tools to do the job..
Just an idea.

11/4" SB couplings=$32ea.
plus some pipe- who knows how much you'd have to buy- 10', 20'?
Tool rental?
Better call a pro who's equiped

 

[Alan]

Anyone else never heard of an 1-1/4 Pex?
1" yes not 1-1/4"

We use 1-1/4" pex all the time. :huh:

We have a tool that goes up to 1-1/2" pex.

:huh:

 

[QueBall]

Sharkbite push fit coupler would be the usual answer to a quick fix but they do not make it in 1 1/2" size.

But a plumber who works with that size can fix it in 15 minutes. The cost will likely be whatever their minimum charge is. Maybe you have some additional things for a plumber to look at, even if it's just giving you advice for some future project you might be considering.

Unless someone rents out the tools it's not really a DIY job to fix. It's the tools that really kill you in this case The cordless Milwaukee M18 kit (M12 is too small for this size) is about $700 extra sizes of heads are about $70 each. Manual expander handle can be found for about $200 and usually you buy the heads separately at about $70 each. Though if you needed one for a decent sized project they do hold a good resale value on ebay so if you wanted to risk it you probably could recover a big chunk of the initial investment when you are finished by selling the tool.

Cheapest option is probably to just call around for a local plumber who charges a fair rate for little jobs. If you have an existing plumber you have worked with it's usually best to call them first. I find if you have an existing relationship and are a regular customer they will often do little things like that for less than they might charge others.

 

[jagans]

Pipe used to be measured across its inside diameter, which only makes sense if you think about it. Is that what you all are measuring? Did the method for sizing pipe change while I wasn't looking?

By the way, they sell these things called stud finders. If your towel rack was not made to mount to studs, you should fasten a decorative wooden trim piece to the studs , then fasten your towel rack to that, especially if you have kids, especially teenagers, or adults that act like teenagers. Otherwise, your towel rack with expansion anchors will wind up on the floor in short order, and you get to patch the drywall with the unsightly jagged holes in it.

 

[QueBall]

Pipe used to be measured across its inside diameter, which only makes sense if you think about it. Is that what you all are measuring? Did the method for sizing pipe change while I wasn't looking?

By the way, they sell these things called stud finders. If your towel rack was not made to mount to studs, you should fasten a decorative wooden trim piece to the studs , then fasten your towel rack to that, especially if you have kids, especially teenagers, or adults that act like teenagers. Otherwise, your towel rack with expansion anchors will wind up on the floor in short order, and you get to patch the drywall with the unsightly jagged holes in it.

Big pipe like that when full of water will likely show up as a stud on a stud finder. The original towel bar installer likely did use a stud finder and was misled by the readings.

 

[BillZ]

I've had tape joints fool a stud finder. When I'm working in an area where I suspect anything behind a wall I use a camera.

 

[jagans]

A camera is destructive, you need a hole for the probe. If you go to an area where you get solid, consistent readings, you can measure your way back into the area with other services, this has worked pretty well for me. I use my IR camera for studs in exterior walls, beats every other method when the Outdoor temp is different from indoor, like winter, or summer. Of course not many people own these. Not what I baought it for, but really works good.

 

[BillZ]

When I plan on opening a wall the half inch hole is inconsequential. If I find other services in the wall I can make an informed decision. Homeowners can get cameras under a hundred bucks now. You can save that in one job.