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Pex Connection To Non-threaded Galvanized Pipe

569 Views 20 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  TheEplumber
Looking to re-pipe house with pex. This is where the water line enters crawl space. What adaptor can be used for non-threaded pipe (assuming it's so old I have to cut it). I googled it and go some unclear answers. Thanks.

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· Naildriver
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NO. Remove the iron pipe at the tee. Then screw a male PEX adapter to the tee and complete the run with PEX.

You CAN thread the iron pipe, but unless you had a threader, you would have to remove it anyway to take it to a shop to have it threaded.
 

· A "Handy Husband"
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If the other end of the iron pipe I would remove it and replace with a piece of brass pipe, threaded both ends.
If you must work with what you have, use a Dresser coupling to connect to a short brass nipple.


Sent from my SM-T500 using Tapatalk
 

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NO. Remove the iron pipe at the tee. Then screw a male PEX adapter to the tee and complete the run with PEX.

You CAN thread the iron pipe, but unless you had a threader, you would have to remove it anyway to take it to a shop to have it threaded.
PEX can't be exposed to the sun and I always hard stick it through the foundation and run the PEX inside.

Numerous ways on this house.

Always amazes me when I see a water main above grade.

Also, I recommend against a dresser coupling for a full pressure water line.
 

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Galvanized pipes are IPS size. If you cut it you can use a IPSxCTS compression coupling. You won't find one at the big box store, but should be able to find them at some plumbing supply stores that caters to water meter fittings. The brands that these fittings come in are FORD METER BOX, A Y MCDONALDS, LEGEND etc...

Here is one such coupling for 3/4" IPS to 3/4" CTS. Extra heavy duty for buried applications.


The CTS side can be a short piece of copper then solder onto it a copper PEX A or PEX B adapter. You may be able to use PEX directly into the CTS end but probably need some kind of a stiffener.
 

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Unless the run of the galvanized inside is really long, I would disconnect it at the other end of the piece that goes through the wall, and thread on an adapter there. If it is too long, I'd unscrew the piece at the tee, and thread in a short piece of galvanized (that's long enough to go through the wall and make a connection on the other side) and add the threaded adapter to that.
 

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I'm not a plumber, but I suggest a pvc sleeve where the pipe (copper, brass or new galvanized) could rub on the brick. I've replaced lots & lots of rigid & thin wall conduit that was dissolved by the alkalinity of the brick and/or the abrasiveness.
Paul

From Matt1963: Always amazes me when I see a water main above grade.
Me too says the guy who just came in to warm up after shoveling 9" of snow. I'm going to go live where Grubburg lives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm not a plumber, but I suggest a pvc sleeve where the pipe (copper, brass or new galvanized) could rub on the brick. I've replaced lots & lots of rigid & thin wall conduit that was dissolved by the alkalinity of the brick and/or the abrasiveness.
Paul

From Matt1963: Always amazes me when I see a water main above grade.
Me too says the guy who just came in to warm up after shoveling 9" of snow. I'm going to go live where Grubburg lives.
You wouldn't like the summers though! 🤪
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
PEX A. Been watching youtube on it for weeks :cool: I chose it over B due to less restriction at the fittings, plus the gun looks fun.

What do you mean by system/brand. Like Apollo brand only pipe, sleeve, barbs? Don't mix in Sharkbite brand items, for example?
 
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