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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a roughly 10 x 20 concrete patio off the back of the house (see pic below). I am wanting to build a pergola over the area to provide a little shade and also dress the area up a bit.

My original plan was to attach the pergola to the house by adding a ledger to the house and burying 3 6x6 posts on the far side of the patio (kind of like a lean-to I guess) but after much thought I decided that I hated the idea of tearing out the siding, hoping to get the flashing right, j-channel trimming, etc. Plus I don't know if that bumpout is substantial enough as I assume there's no proper rim/band joist to attach my ledger to.

I've decided a freestanding structure is a better idea. In that case, I would still bury 3 6x6 posts along the far side with 2 more posts on each end close to the house.


Questions:

1. Am I correct in my assumption of the bumpout "strength?" Could a ledger attachment to just the framing structure above the door and other studs along the length of the bumpout be sufficient?

2. If I proceed with freestanding, I would bury 5 total posts. The 6th post in the middle closest to the house (the red post in my very crude sketch below) obviously couldn't be buried - Does it just need to be surface mounted to the concrete with a post base?

3. I see so many opinions on burying posts in concrete (with a rock base) vs burying in rock/dirt backfill vs surface mounting on forms. I've decided if I bury I'm gonna use some sort of post protector. Which is really the best way?

4. The concrete is only about 4 inches thick so it's probably not a good idea to consider securing this entire structure directly to the concrete right?

5. Should I just scrap the pergola idea, tear out the roof over the bumpout, and extend the roof over the patio? Seems like the most expensive and labor intensive but just another consideration.




 

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Have you thought of a Sunsetter retractable awning? I am a dealer here in Florida. Not trying to sell you one, but you talked about not taking off the siding. With the SunSetter you don't have to. It will anchor though the siding into your studs. They come out 10'2"and 11'8" the XL. Just a thought
Have a great day.

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You may wish to consider moving the start of the pergola to just in front of the bump-out in the house. As is, it will be difficult digging posts that close to the house. Soil against the house also unlikely to be "undisturbed", but that is probably not a big issue on a pergola.

Where are you located? How deep do you figure on burying the posts ?

What is the overall width of the pergola (in the 3-post direction) ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you thought of a Sunsetter retractable awning? I am a dealer here in Florida. Not trying to sell you one, but you talked about not taking off the siding. With the SunSetter you don't have to. It will anchor though the siding into your studs. They come out 10'2"and 11'8" the XL. Just a thought
Have a great day.

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I don't mind the thought of an awning they were just a tad more expensive than I expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You may wish to consider moving the start of the pergola to just in front of the bump-out in the house. As is, it will be difficult digging posts that close to the house. Soil against the house also unlikely to be "undisturbed", but that is probably not a big issue on a pergola.

Where are you located? How deep do you figure on burying the posts ?

What is the overall width of the pergola (in the 3-post direction) ?
That was my intended plan with the posts near the bumpout but my crude sketch didn't illustrate that well enough. I'm in Kentucky; I planned on burying posts 2 1/2 to 3 feet deep. Width is roughly 18-20 feet.
 

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My question as an amateur builder? Do you need posts buried in the ground near the house if you have a ledger on the house? It seems to me the ledger on the house would support that end of the pergola. Then maybe a intermediate post along the sides with 3 along the end farthest from the home.

Before moving to the mountains I lived in San Diego and really really like a pergola for warm climates. I like the ability to have climbing vines to grow on it, and adding light and maybe cloth or screening to increase the shade options.
 

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Have you thought of a Sunsetter retractable awning? I am a dealer here in Florida. Not trying to sell you one, but you talked about not taking off the siding. With the SunSetter you don't have to. It will anchor though the siding into your studs. They come out 10'2"and 11'8" the XL. Just a thought
Have a great day.

Sent from my 5032W using Tapatalk
He has vinyl siding. I would not install an awning over vinyl siding. Vinyl is hollow so anchoring an awning securely will squash a panel and deform it.
Also, vinyl has to expand and contract, so securely anchoring an awning through it will restrict its movement and make the remainder of the siding panel get ripples. It will also void the warranty of the siding. I like your awnings, but I have doubts about the quality of installation if you take shortcuts like simply bolting it through vinyl siding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My question as an amateur builder? Do you need posts buried in the ground near the house if you have a ledger on the house? It seems to me the ledger on the house would support that end of the pergola. Then maybe a intermediate post along the sides with 3 along the end farthest from the home.

Before moving to the mountains I lived in San Diego and really really like a pergola for warm climates. I like the ability to have climbing vines to grow on it, and adding light and maybe cloth or screening to increase the shade options.
I was gonna put the ledger on the house in lieu of making it freestanding. Leaning more towards freestanding though as I won’t have to deal with potential leaks, etc from siding removal and proper flashing. Plus, I’m not convinced I should put that much weight/strain on that bump out.

You do raise an interesting question though: do I need an intermediate post along the sides? The span will be roughly 14 feet. Obviously I’ll have 3 along the outside width as that span is 24 feet.
 

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I was gonna put the ledger on the house in lieu of making it freestanding. Leaning more towards freestanding though as I won’t have to deal with potential leaks, etc from siding removal and proper flashing. Plus, I’m not convinced I should put that much weight/strain on that bump out.

You do raise an interesting question though: do I need an intermediate post along the sides? The span will be roughly 14 feet. Obviously I’ll have 3 along the outside width as that span is 24 feet.
Do you have a wood or concrete floor in the house?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Another question: The width will be roughly 24 feet. I planned on 2x10 horizontal beams to span that distance. Is the best to notch the top of the middle 6x6 to accept the 2 2x10s, butt/splice them together, and double carriage bolt each To the notched post? Is there a better way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I was gonna put the ledger on the house in lieu of making it freestanding. Leaning more towards freestanding though as I won’t have to deal with potential leaks, etc from siding removal and proper flashing. Plus, I’m not convinced I should put that much weight/strain on that bump out.

You do raise an interesting question though: do I need an intermediate post along the sides? The span will be roughly 14 feet. Obviously I’ll have 3 along the outside width as that span is 24 feet.
Do you have a wood or concrete floor in the house?
I have wood floors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have wood floors.
So from the crawl space you can see of the foundation goes straight across or bumps out. I suspect it bumps out.
I hope it is or it should never have been back filled that high.
I have a basement. The foundation does indeed go straight across and the bump out is cantilevered on the floor joists. It’s hard to see but there roughly a 2 inch or so gap between the bottom of the bump out and the concrete. The concrete almost follows the contour of the bump out ie there’s dirt/soil underneath that I cannot reach but can see if I lay flat and shine a flashlight underneath.
 

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I have a basement. The foundation does indeed go straight across and the bump out is cantilevered on the floor joists. It’s hard to see but there roughly a 2 inch or so gap between the bottom of the bump out and the concrete. The concrete almost follows the contour of the bump out ie there’s dirt/soil underneath that I cannot reach but can see if I lay flat and shine a flashlight underneath.
How dumb was that.
 

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I’m no builder/framer/engineer but I guess that’s just a shortcut way to do it? I don’t know but it does make me wary of tying a large heavy pergola to it.
I wouldn't, you could do 3 beam pockets but the middle one would have to go into the beam or what ever is under the wall upstairs.
 
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