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While at a local paint store for some exterior stain samples I decided to look at their interior products as, I'm looking to stain some new cedar wood that will be on an interior wall...
They had Old Masters that after a quick search, it seems to get pretty decent reviews.. However they had the 3 different types. Reading their web site seems like I want either the penetrating or wiping, but I just want to make sure..
I got 2 samples in the wiping stain, since that was the only version I could get both colors I was interested in, but i can return them if I'm better off with the other.
What Im after is just a true rustic natural wood appeal, but with just a little color..
 

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Cedar is soft and absorbs stain like a sponge----It is seldom used for furniture so little useful feedback on staining interiors may be available---

Experiment---and see what gives you the look you want----If it's rough--the jell stains will not work evenly---while experimenting---try the Verathane brand stains---I find they absorb more evenly than the Minwax equivelents on a soft wood---
 

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Rubbin walls since'79
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Old masters is one of the best .
The 3 types are different in application and what is trying to be achieved.
I like the wiping best overall, but depending on the wood you might need to pre treat to get it to be even and not blotchy.
Do a google on how to stain or using a wiping stain etc. I bet you could spend all day learning info that way.
 

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Just my opinion, you say cedar and I assume is a rough sawn texture.
You will not stain this type of texture and then apply a urethane coating and try to make it look like furniture and sand in between coats.

I would want a oil I can brush on, wood will soak it up and your job will be done ... sometimes you may want 2 coats for a more even finish. Most times with a good exterior oil, one coat is enough.
And being interior, will last for years and may never need to be done again ... being out of the weather.

Problem is the odor, I always carry sikkens natural in my work van, and have it applied to many of my customers wood. Is simple to use same product makes it easy for me.
I am not a sikkens salesman.

I did use some penofin and it seems to work well, is cheaper then sikkens, available at ACE hardware stores. But even out doors that stuff gave me a headache and made me sick, 2 weeks later could still smell it ... would not recommend indoor use.
sikkens odor will disappear in 2 or 3 days.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just my opinion, you say cedar and I assume is a rough sawn texture.
You will not stain this type of texture and then apply a urethane coating and try to make it look like furniture and sand in between coats.

I would want a oil I can brush on, wood will soak it up and your job will be done ... sometimes you may want 2 coats for a more even finish. Most times with a good exterior oil, one coat is enough.
And being interior, will last for years and may never need to be done again ... being out of the weather.

Problem is the odor, I always carry sikkens natural in my work van, and have it applied to many of my customers wood. Is simple to use same product makes it easy for me.
I am not a sikkens salesman.

I did use some penofin and it seems to work well, is cheaper then sikkens, available at ACE hardware stores. But even out doors that stuff gave me a headache and made me sick, 2 weeks later could still smell it ... would not recommend indoor use.
sikkens odor will disappear in 2 or 3 days.
It is rough sawn cedar. I had no intentions of sanding as I think the roughness adds to the character and wanted to stain just to help protect it. I hadn't given a lot of thought to a top coat yet, but will the rough texture hinder that?
 

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I would simply want a oil I could brush on, with that texture I would not apply a top coat.
Only concern here is picking correct oil for indoor use.

For exterior doors, I again use sikkens for both inside and outside.
My point is, just because I choose sikkens, others may have a better product to recommend. Here is a photo, and all is going to be done with exterior oil sikkens.
Actually was done about 4 years ago and still looks great. I would choose a oil I can brush or roll on.
I say sikkens and is what I use, others may have better ideas for better products. I just assure you if you went this way, you will not be disappointed.
While the vigas already have 1 coat of natural on them, we did this during framing to protect them, the T&G ceiling has no finish at this time.
 

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one more pic, I love this photo to show the difference in color and age of the oil stain.
This photo is of the same house and front porch was built at same time.
What is different in this photo, I came back 2 years later and built the cover for the electric panel.
The T&G ceiling was stained 2 years earlier and has a nice color to it.
The box on the wall I just built and stained, It has no color to it and looks blah!
Now If you look at it, has same color as the T&G and the post ... just took some time and age.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is there a difference in the depth of color between the 3? Like say I take Maple in a penterating stain, will Maple in a wiping/gel stain be darker from the get go?
 

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Rubbin walls since'79
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Gel stain is very thick and is also called a masking stain because it sits on the top more.
Wiping stains are greasy and you control the depth by how much/ soon you wipe.
Penetrating stains go on thin and- well, penetrate. Best for light stains.

All can be manipulated to work in different ways.
But for rough sawn- , you can't wipe, and gels will be too thick. I think Fun is heading you down the right path.
 

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God only knows what using a maple stain on cedar would look like, it's just not done that way.
Just leaving it alone and let it age would look better then stained.
 
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